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MEP 002A not starting

trdshowal

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ok i also read a post by OD that if you take off the large hex in middle and the 12 point under it use needle nose pliers to take out center- no.34=(delivery valve assy.) tap the fuel rod to free it up, ( it worked ! ) but i grabbed the center ( needle vale it came out i then got the outer section out, i then tried to replace the valve into the outer (it is very hard to do) so i started it & taped it the rest the way in with a piece of wood, but it is sticking some, think i screwed it up by doing so, no other way i knew of so ... do i need to replace the Delivery Valve now ? no fuel flows threw the center now as did before when pump is turned on .
 
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treeguy

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The delievery valve that comes out of this hole is a two piece unit right? Outer mushroom shape with maybe a spring inside it with a needle inside that pushes on the spring? I can't exactly remember. Is this whole thing what you tapped in and is now stuck? I don't know, just try to wiggle it out. It has to come out no matter what now anyway. It is designed to slide in and out under spring pressure as you probably know.
 

trdshowal

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it's 2 pieces outer is a tight fit into main body and center is a needle valve and there is a spring on top of it under the nut (12 point ) that's under the one seen on the out side in center of the pump. I didn't see anything plastic thought and it came out should I try to very lightly file (needle valve) to deburr it ? or just but another one that is what is sticking more then less
 
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toomanytools

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Thanks Treeguy for this usefull post and response to PM to find this thread. My 002a,(just won fromGL w/900 hours) , cranked but would't start. Fuel up to, but not out of IP. Pulled and disassembled the pump and found a broken drive washer and seized pump rod. Odd it was seized this good because everything looks clean. carb cleaner and finally had to drive it out. I welded the washer but got some weld "inside", and after filing, I'm not happy with the fit side to side. I'm concerned this will throw off timing, so I'm going to get a new one. Note to all; Take out the screw in the side of pump, line up PC mark on flywheel with pointer, and put .125 rod (brass welding rod) in the hole before pulling pump. Reverse procedure on install. Will update when repairs are complete; again, many thanks.
 

toomanytools

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Update; The broken drive washer is called a "Guide", pt# GU8546 , Only available from Ambac directly because Mil-spec. Phone # 1-800-628-6894. $15.00 each
 

treeguy

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I don't think, well I guess, the dog house/loaf of bread hole might throw off the timing if not shaped right. This is what I love about metal though, you can weld it up and file it down to fit!
Good luck, Toomanytools! Now that you found that and the siezed rod you should be good to go, NICE!
When I put my IP back together I lubed everything up with diesel like the TM or somewhere mentioned.
Let us know if she runs!
 

trdshowal

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the screw hole is it the one at the 9 o'clock position or 6 ? i take it is to prevent rotation of pump ? what holds it in place while pump is off if so ? my pump rod was frozen, I got it working by the trick mentioned above spraying carb cleaner & of taping on it and cranking it over till she was moving good again I also put pressure on it and cranked it for a while feeling it moving up & down I STILL NEED A ; FUEL DELIVERY VALVE ASSY. ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN BUY A NEW ONE AT ? I TRIED CALLING THE NUMBER MENTIONED ON THE OTHER PART that is being Welded, LEFT A MESSAGE NOTHING HEARD BACK TODAY = 4 HRS. LATER THANKS
 

toomanytools

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Ambac is in S.Carolina. Hole is at 9:00, for pre disassembly alignment and correct reassembly.

Ck Ambac website for phone and download TM for model 50 pump. Pump disasembly a little tough wo some trick tools, might want to inquire at a local diesel shop to R&R the new guide.


edit; I wrote 2 posts, more info, but computer timed out and I lost them re-logging. Apreciate advice on this.
 
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treeguy

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The screw that you are talking about is just to plug up the hole. The hole is used to time the IP to the timing of the gears on the cam shaft to get the IP to squirt fuel when it is supposed to. Timing the IP to the engine is wicked important, another member just fought a long battle with his MEP not running and it was because the timing was wrong. I don't know what you mean by "what holds it in place while the pump is off?" When the IP is off the engine you can spin the face gear, or you should be able to, holding the face gear on is a dounut shaped clip with the inside missing (creates a channel, like a water slide) and the clip is cut so you can walk it around the grove in the face gear and the pump housing. Check out the "HELP!! installing the rebuilt IP-MEP-002A Refurb Update" thread to read all about timing the IP to the engine.

TRD, if you pump rod was frozen and you had tried to start the engine you most likely shattered the "drive washer". If you think about it, the pump rod is supposed to spin with the face gear, the face gear spins by the cam shaft gears, the pump rod spins by the "drive washer" dog house/bread loaf shaped hole in the washer that slides over the flat on the pump rod. If the pump rod was frozen and the face gear was spun by the cam than the "drive washer" will shatter because the pump rod is stuck. When this happens, even if you get the pump rod free you will not get the pump rod to spin so the ports on it will not line up sending fuel to the appropriate injector. It is decieving, because you will still get fuel out of the big nut on the front of the IP that houses the delievery valve. This is what had me hung up, fuel here but no high pressure coming out of the injector lines.
:beer:

Why do you need a fuel delievery valve assebly? When you said that you got your pump rod freed up was that with the IP installed in the engine, if so you will need to remove it and disassemble the IP to fix the shattered "drive washer". I think it is possible to put enough pressure on the pump rod while it is installed in the engine to get the spring in the face gear to flex, but you should really disassemble it.
 
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trdshowal

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I pulled the needle valve out when i was told to remove the center after taking the hex cap nut off wasnt told it is a 2 pcs unit got it back in but it sticks a lot (not free flowing) I'll need to try emery clothing it to deburr it , so after i got both pices off I taped on the ron cranked it over did this several times then applyed pressure on rod while cranking it and it moved up & down as for the drive washer. I aligned the flywheel mark & removed the pump after putting a piece of aluminum rod (.0002 bigger than want was said to use) in the hole, I tried to see if that stopped the drive gear from rotating i did not and it would fall out if i didn't hold it to keep in place I have remounted it part way for now until I can fig out how to proceed Thanks, for the Reply Tree
 

toomanytools

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Success! Got home from work, and Ambac envelope on the kitchen table. Asked for permission to go out to workshop and work (play). IP was disassembled and cleaned, took about 45 minutes to re-assemble with the new drive washer. (ordered a spare). Keepers at the top of spring were fun, fun, fun! Re-installed the pump, twice I might add, forgot to install the o-ring at the engine block. ( needed the practice). Primed the pump, 40 psi oil press, started on the third crank try. Set the freq, dialed in the volts and operated a grinder to test. Ran for 10 minutes and shut down ( 11:00), and checked for leaks. All looks good, will load bank 'er this weekend. Thanks for all the help. Hope sharing my experience helps others. Rick

( I shut it down, It was 11:00 at night. Try to be a good neighbor!)

Sorry, 23:00, Duh
 
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treeguy

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Tools, that is great news! Those keepers are a royal pain in the butt. Glad to hear you got her running!:beer:

Trd, if you want to talk, give me a PM, I am interested in figuring out your delievery valve issue.
 

treeguy

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Trd, on the top of every SS page is a menu bar, click on the User CP, here on the left side is a column of menus, go down to private messages and click send new message, like e-mail there is an address bar to type in the persons name, here once you start typing it will auto list members. I'll send you a message, go to the User CP and click the private messages and then click the in box.
 

PeterD

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Easier yet, click on the user's name on the right of a post, and in the drop down menu, select "Send a private message to..." and all is good. You don't even have to remember how to spell is ID!
 
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