mep 004a no fault lights working plus more

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Guyfang

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So you think there is something wrong with fault indicator? I bench tested it. But did not test it in the gen
Kris
Maybe not. Hook the wire back up to TB-10. Then put the set in run mode. Test at the fault indicator canon plug, pin A, to a ground point in the control panel. NOT plan B. Some other good ground source. You should get 24VDC. We have tested the whole positive part of the A9 circuit for continuity. Got continuity the whole way. So we should get VDC at pin A and ground. If we have VDC, then it can only be the negative side of the circuit. Let's see what you come up with.
 

KLChurch

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Maybe not. Hook the wire back up to TB-10. Then put the set in run mode. Test at the fault indicator canon plug, pin A, to a ground point in the control panel. NOT plan B. Some other good ground source. You should get 24VDC. We have tested the whole positive part of the A9 circuit for continuity. Got continuity the whole way. So we should get VDC at pin A and ground. If we have VDC, then it can only be the negative side of the circuit. Let's see what you come up with.
Got 24 VDC pin A in run mode
 

Guyfang

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Then it can only be something wrong on the neg side. Now, before we go further, when the A9 is hook up, and the set is in run mode, you tried the test to reset switch? And no lights came on?
 

Guyfang

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The schematics are not right in the 15 KW book. Had to go to the 30 KW book. And vice versa.

You need to pull the SP/relay box out. Then take the cable between the SP/relay box and the fault indicator off the fault indicator, and hook it back up to the SP/relay box. Take the box apart. Look at the A5 card. Check the wires are hooked up right. Keep in mind, there could be something not the same as the below list, BUT I think this is right.

1.-Wire number P40F
2.-Wire number D12A
3.-Wire number P66A
4.-Wire number P52B
5.-Wire number P200J
6.-Wire number P68A
7.-Wire number X22T
8.-Wire number L26C
9.-Wire number P49A (could also be P48A?)
10.-Wire number (same as 9?)
11.
12.-Wire number P48B
13.-Wire number P54B
14.-Wire number D13A
15.-Wire number P55C
16.-Wire number P47E
17.-Wire number P208B
18.-Wire number X6D (could also be X8D?)
19.-Wire number L25C
20.-Wire number X21T
.21-Wire number P50L
22.-Wire number X9Z18C
23.
24.-Wire number P51E



The B wire in P6, (canon plug from A9 to the SP/relay box) runs to the A5-3. That's wire number P66A. Measure ohms from the P6-B to the A5-3. You should get continuity. Keep one probe still on P6-B. Move your probe on A5-3, to A5-6, wire P68A. You should have continuity.

I have spent the last 3 hours comparing the 15 & 30 KW schematics, and there are some mistake here, I can see it. In the morning, I will call, if the old fart will answer the phone, and ask Obi Wan what the deal is. But at least get this far.
 

KLChurch

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OK young man but this will take me tonight and in the morn to do so correctly.
If you ever come to Texas I will treat you to the best Steaks and Texas beer.
Please Text me your phone number so I will be looking out for it
Kris
 
Last edited:

KLChurch

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1.-Wire number P40F
2.-Wire number D12A
3.-Wire number P66A
4.-Wire number P52B
5.-Wire number P200J
6.-Wire number P68A
7.-Wire number X22T
8.-Wire number L26C
9.-Wire number P49A (could also be P48A?)
10.-Wire number (same as 9?)
11.
12.-Wire number P48B
13.-Wire number P54B
14.-Wire number D13A
15.-Wire number P55C
16.-Wire number P47E
17.-Wire number P208B
18.-Wire number X6D (could also be X8D?)
19.-Wire number L25C
20.-Wire number X21T
.21-Wire number P50L
22.-Wire number X9Z18C
23.
24.-Wire number P51E

All wires are correct except #10 has no wire going to it
 

KLChurch

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Checked toosie roll with ohm meter and got 3.5 both directions. Since I don't know what I'm doing in this area of expertise it may not mean anything.
Kris
 

Coug

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On the plus side, you've found things that are definitely not right. I always hate troubleshooting something and not finding anything wrong, then it just starts working again.
 

KLChurch

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Guyfang,
Do you know a possible reason this A5 is fried this way?
One toosie roll leaking because of heat I guess.
The other one next to it seems to be a little collapsed. (maybe because of heat)
One runner seems to be burned in two for a quarter of inch. (A5 back of board)
Another looks maybe on its way out. (A5 back of Board)
Kris
 

Chainbreaker

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View attachment 772037

More bad news. Checked the bottom of A5. Some of the runners are toasted.
This is an Oh ****
Kris
Those traces on that PWB (Printed Wiring Board) can be repaired by soldering jumper wires between any common junctions of the through hole terminals. Of course, you would need to find the cause of what caused those "opens" and replace any bad components that may be topside on that board. Or...find a known good replacement A5 board if available.
 

Guyfang

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Location
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Guyfang,
Do you know a possible reason this A5 is fried this way?
One toosie roll leaking because of heat I guess.
The other one next to it seems to be a little collapsed. (maybe because of heat)
One runner seems to be burned in two for a quarter of inch. (A5 back of board)
Another looks maybe on its way out. (A5 back of Board)
Kris
This is a, I wont say common, but every now and then failure. Its not hard to fix. The -24P has info on parts and the -34 has test procedures. Like Chainbreaker say, the traces are easy to fix. You can look in the big auction site for a card, but haven't seen one in a while. I got one foot out the door. Off for the rally. I will be back on monday. Read up in the -34 manual. If you dont want to do this, maybe we can find someone who will. But give it a shot. You cant make it more broke.
 
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