mep-004a starting issue

[212sparky]

I purchased an MEP-004a on Dec 29 2011. It started up after about 10 seconds of cranking. to previous owner had not used it that often and from time to time he said it was stubborn to get started. I went to start it today after putting brand new batteries and all it does is crank. i am getting white smoke and when i first hit the start switch it cranks over kicks out that starter then nothing it just cranks over and over. i have fuel to the filters and the Injector Pump. i plan tomorrow to crack the lines at the injectors and check flow. If i pill the injectors is their any thing that i need to watch out for like gaskets?

Thanks,

Rob

 

[R Racing]

Did you try a shot of ether ? Check your gaskets on your fuel filter housings. Also swith it to battle mode for 30 seconds to a min. then turn battle short off and try again. on mine battle short runs the fuel pumps to help prime the system.

 

[212sparky]

i did give it a shot of ether and it ran for a few seconds then died. i will check the filters. they don't leak and i get good fuel out of the drain ports on the bottom. i cracked open the fuel line at the IP and had good flow their as well.

 

[PeterD]

If you are getting white smoke, then there is fuel in the cylinders (that is the white smoke, and it will smell like raw diesel if that is it.)

How cold was it? Remember, you have to hold the start switch to start position until the unit is running and producing power, you don't let off as soon as it fires.

It sounds to me like perhaps it is a combination of things:

1. Too cold for a non-ether start,
2. You are letting off the start switch too soon,
3. Maybe low compression?

Try the first two (temp and technique) and see what happens. Generally my MEP-004 starts reliably at 20 without ether.

 

[212sparky]

Update: Today, i took off the injector lines and they were clear. I reinstalled them and bled them. I checked the filters. checked all the fittings. I then started it and it ran for about 30 seconds and sounded great. Then it stopped. i tried to restart it and it will run for 5 seconds at a time now. any thoughts?

 

[PeterD]

Sure do... Carefully check your fuel return lines from the injection pump and from the injectors! That will stop the engine if blocked as quickly and as cleanly as the fuel shutoff solenoid. If it was greatly restricted, then I could see it doing what you describe. It sounds like you are running out of fuel.

But just for grins, also monitor the voltage to the injection pump's solenoid, make sure it is not dropping out. But that 30 second run leads me to think it is not electrical, assuming you had oil pressure, etc.

 

[212sparky]

I will check all those fittings as well. I have great oil pressure, it comes up on the short runs.

 

[212sparky]

Is the solenoid on the injector pump a powered open solenoid? Could i put 24 volts from the battery to the solenoid and check it to see if it will keep running?

 

[indy4x4fab]

Is the solenoid on the injector pump a powered open solenoid? Could i put 24 volts from the battery to the solenoid and check it to see if it will keep running?

yellow part- Yes, I have done this many times my self on the newer small engines that now have fuel shut off solenoid, as well as 6.2 during test fires, before final hookups.

orange part- yes it should be holding its self open when its powered up (the fuel shut off solenoid).

 

[R Racing]

It might be a bad oil pressure switch.

 

[jbk]

mine did this, it was that check valve on top of the solinod cover on injection pump. just remove the glass ball in the brass and your good to go.

 

[212sparky]

It does have voltage to the solenoid.
jbk: do you have more details on this glass ball? where it it located?
Thanks
Rob

 

[jbk]

the top of the injection pump. remove the return line unscrew the tee. its that brass that screws into the top.

 

[212sparky]

I also replaced the final fuel filter. good news is it matches the deuce filter. when i took the can off the gasket was all mangled. i put a new element in and a new gasket on but it did not change anything.

 

[212sparky]

ok i will go try that. it is located at a storage lot about a mile from my apartment and will try it after dinner.

 

[212sparky]

She is running!!!!!! JBK you were right, the fitting under the TEE was pluged solid with gunk. it cost me $7.46 for a new TEE and a close nipple to connect it to the IP. I did find a leaking return in the cylinder closest to the radiator. i will pick up a net TEE tomorrow since the threads are stripped. Thanks to every body that helped! You guys rock! I will buy you a beer any time you are around or at Haspin.

 

[PeterD]

That's a winner! Once you mentioned the 30 second run, followed by a much shorter run, something clicked in my mind. Those Stanadyne injection pumps are very sensitive to restrictions in the fuel return lines... We have similar problems with the Hummers with a 6.5, same basic pump, and there have been a number of cases where the return has caused grief.

 

[Isaac-1]

You may want to remove the side inspection cover from the Injection Pump and see if you see something that looks like coffee grounds in there, if so the rubber internal parts (flyweight retainer, etc) are disintegrating and will need to be replaced soon, you may want to get the pump fully rebuilt at the same time. Stanadyne injection pumps built after the mid 1980s use a better quality of internal rubber for parts, so hopefully it would be a one time deal.

Ike