MEP-802A questions

[robert248]

That is the block coolant drain. If you leave it open all the coolant will drain out of the block and the radiator to that static level.

Make sure its closed, and that you have no drainage under use (it should have a coolant drain hose on it, that also ties into the brass drain on the bottom of the radiator, and to the overflow nipple on the coolant catch can).

Thanks! That's what I thought but just wanted to get confirmation. Yes, the hose is connected as you describe.

Letting the blue gasket maker cure then I'll advance forward.

Appreciate all the help!

 

[robert248]

Finally got it running today. This is a snapshot of when it was running. Only ran it for less than 3 minutes. All of the gauges seemed to be working. Panel lights work. Where should I start from here to make sure the generator is working as it should. Is there a section within the manual I should focus on and then work from there? Tried to upload a short video clip but it was either too large in size or the file type was not supported. Is it possible to upload a short video clip? Overall it sounded pretty nice and no major issues from what I could tell. Nothing leaked. I tightened everything that was lose and replaced the radiator fluid.

 

[robert248]

Here is a short clip of it running. Had to zip the file in order to upload it.

 

[CallMeColt]

Here's what you should do to test your generator.

 

[vrzff]

While it's running, stick a manometer into the oil dipstick. You should be running with at least 1" WC of vacuum. This will tell you that you don't have any crankcase pressure, so the piston rings and gaskets are probably in good shape.

I used this nice cheap one from Amazon. You can make one out of clear tube, but I've found the water is too sensitive to the vibrations to get a good reading-- the Amazon one uses some thick blue goo which is easy to read and doesn't jump around.

https://www.amazon.com/Midcvfrun-Manometer-U-Shaped-Indicator-Monitoring/dp/B0DYV874D4/

 

[Guyfang]

In the -24 there is instructions to make a simple cheapo manometer. Its not a thing of beauty. But close enough to tell you if you have a problem.

 

[LuckeyD]

Codes are from the unit level maintenance computer and mean how fast they are supposed to be addressed. NCOMP is a program where a unit may put the equipment item in a unit storage state because of low use saving maintenance costs. The square tank was also used at the end of the rebuild program as the round ones became unavailable at that time from the vendor. The unit probably started receiving their AMMPS gens and it was turned in as excess, and they went as is to DRMO for sale at auction. I hope it runs as well as it is clean. Recommend connecting a couple space heaters to the output lugs and test the gen for an hour or two. You can check the fuel gage and oil pressure gage at that time as well. Supercool!

 

[robert248]

Started the test today at 1:30pm. Been running for just under 30 minutes. So far so good. Question any reason the temperature gauge is a little on the higher end or could this be normal? Also am I reading right that the percent rated current just over 50 should be there? I have the heater at 5000w full power. Wouldn't this gauge be a little higher closer to 100? Thanks in advance for your insights.

 

[CallMeColt]

Started the test today at 1:30pm. Been running for just under 30 minutes. So far so good. Question any reason the temperature gauge is a little on the higher end or could this be normal? Also am I reading right that the percent rates current just over 50 should be there? I have the heater at 5000w full power. Wouldn't this gauge be a little higher closer to 100? Thanks in advance for your insights.

This thread troubleshoots the half reading issue;

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-m8-percent-load-gauge-issue.212356/

 

[robert248]

Thanks I'm going to power down and read!