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MEP-803 locking up, help?

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,413
514
113
Location
Ripley/TN
Well I finally found some time to tear into this unit, and I found something pretty awful...
I need to pull the head and evaluate the cylinder, what are the chances it’s a paperweight?
Wont really know until you get the head off. Make sure you check your crank on that cylinder after you get everything cleaned up. Ill have to say Ive never seen a piston explode like that. But you still got a good deal on it in my opinion. Fuel pump $100, injector pumps $125 each, gauges $50-75 each. Those things alone made your money back.
 

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
504
887
93
Location
Enumclaw, Washington
That really blows! But, when we buy these things from the auction sites it’s a little bit of a gamble. I’m very impressed with the simplicity and the durability of these machines though. My guess is that you can make a running unit out of this. If you do go that route and buy the parts to get it running please read the TM on the engine. With the tight tolerances between pistons and valves it’s extremely important to wait at least an hour before rotating the engine. The lifters are hydraulic and they need to “bleed down” after installing the push rods and rocker arms. Someone already mentioned rotating the engine by hand rather than using the starter. Definitely yes after reassembly. Good luck!
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
That really blows! But, when we buy these things from the auction sites it’s a little bit of a gamble. I’m very impressed with the simplicity and the durability of these machines though. My guess is that you can make a running unit out of this. If you do go that route and buy the parts to get it running please read the TM on the engine. With the tight tolerances between pistons and valves it’s extremely important to wait at least an hour before rotating the engine. The lifters are hydraulic and they need to “bleed down” after installing the push rods and rocker arms. Someone already mentioned rotating the engine by hand rather than using the starter. Definitely yes after reassembly. Good luck!
It wasn’t an auction unit but I bought it knowing it needed fixed in some sort. I’m just hoping the wrist pin didnt annihilate the cylinder but I’m not expecting much. Hope it just needs a piston tossed in, but this is wishful thinking while I sit here at work
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
As expected, the wrist pin really did a number on the Cylinder, and surprisingly(maybe just to me) the head is ruined too. I don’t know if it’s worth punching the bores out and going larger, and tossing a new head on financially?? Anyone have a gently used head and a link to some pistons? I’m not sure how deep the grooves are due to the high metal. 😔😔😔

34EF6668-2F95-4D9F-B64F-45A5091C6CFF.jpegBCEB3F35-FC52-4B0E-B39B-95F922188D0E.jpegE68E6A2D-B832-477F-BD69-228E8885A8D4.jpeg
 

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
504
887
93
Location
Enumclaw, Washington
As expected, the wrist pin really did a number on the Cylinder, and surprisingly(maybe just to me) the head is ruined too. I don’t know if it’s worth punching the bores out and going larger, and tossing a new head on financially?? Anyone have a gently used head and a link to some pistons? I’m not sure how deep the grooves are due to the high metal. 😔😔😔

View attachment 868011View attachment 868012View attachment 868013
Can you read the numbers on the top of the other pistons? Contact sean@sleeman-hawken.com. He can hook you up with the pistons if you’re going to bore it out. I’m not sure about the head or the rod.
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
Can you read the numbers on the top of the other pistons? Contact sean@sleeman-hawken.com. He can hook you up with the pistons if you’re going to bore it out. I’m not sure about the head or the rod.
Unfortunately after looking at the gouges in the cylinder, I think the only hope of saving the block is going to be sleeve the cylinder. I’d say some of the gouges are like 50-70 thou deep :(
 

majoday

Active member
76
146
33
Location
Bloomburg,TX
There well may be much about the unit that is good. You will weigh the cost/benefit ratio from a logistics perspective. It may well be negative. However, there is also a cost/benefit ratio in a satisfactory plan to bring the unit "on-line" for your household plan. Making something work can be very satisfying and in doing so, a person gains an intimate understanding of the unit's operation. I picked up a unit in Market Place and working on it has been most challenging and satisfying. Right now my project is on hold for another (Son's first car being revived). On this forum are many who will help you. These are really folks with great depth in their work with these machines, who will gladly guide your efforts and rejoice in your progress.
 

jamawieb

Well-known member
1,413
514
113
Location
Ripley/TN
As expected, the wrist pin really did a number on the Cylinder, and surprisingly(maybe just to me) the head is ruined too. I don’t know if it’s worth punching the bores out and going larger, and tossing a new head on financially?? Anyone have a gently used head and a link to some pistons? I’m not sure how deep the grooves are due to the high metal. 😔😔😔

View attachment 868011View attachment 868012View attachment 868013
Have to say I have never seen this before. I've beat the hell out of pistons on stuck motors and couldn't bust them with sledge hammer. I have 2 spare heads available if you need them. I've also got some low hour 803a's available (craigslist and marketplace), I would give your money back $800 on a trade if you wanted to.
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
Have to say I have never seen this before. I've beat the hell out of pistons on stuck motors and couldn't bust them with sledge hammer. I have 2 spare heads available if you need them. I've also got some low hour 803a's available (craigslist and marketplace), I would give your money back $800 on a trade if you wanted to.
You don’t have a whole longblock do you?
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
I found some DN4M engines for sale, but they’re cores only that don’t rotate 360* and are assembled, how stupid would I be to buy one again without knowing the condition of the internals?
 

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
504
887
93
Location
Enumclaw, Washington
We’ll, new pistons will cost about $175 each. $500 for a core may yield you the parts you need. It’s a crap-shoot. Will the block be good? Will the pistons and rods be good? Will the head be good? I sunk almost a grand into a 10kw unit that I paid $2500 for at auction after the taxes and fees. Like others here have mentioned I got the satisfaction out of bringing it back on line. I have a great respect for these generators. They’re pretty awesom!
 

Crank

Member
41
5
8
Location
Crittenden, KY
We’ll, new pistons will cost about $175 each. $500 for a core may yield you the parts you need. It’s a crap-shoot. Will the block be good? Will the pistons and rods be good? Will the head be good? I sunk almost a grand into a 10kw unit that I paid $2500 for at auction after the taxes and fees. Like others here have mentioned I got the satisfaction out of bringing it back on line. I have a great respect for these generators. They’re pretty awesom!
I really think the motor that I’m replacing has all the parts I need aside from a good block, head and 1 piston. So I can use it as long as the core motor is stock bore. The guy has about 8 motors at that price, and I can hand pick which I want. As is I have $800 in the purchase of my generator and $300 in batteries.
 
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