MEP-803A —— Did I Score? I’m not sure.

[LuckeyD]

Get her home; start at one end and work to the other. Slap a set of batteries in it (nice if they were old recharged).

Now look over the control box and wiring. If all looks well, with fresh oil in engine and water in the radiator ready for a flush, motor over the engine using dead crank. If all good; place s1 on run and listen for fuel pump action.

Open fuel drain and with hose look at what comes out the filter water separator. If all good try starting. May take a bit as injector pumps and injectors have to get primed.

Hope all is well as it settles down after awakening and you have a good one on hand. Now you can spend money to bring it up to your standards.
As the bolts break off removing panels numbers are available for the thousand clinch nuts and bolts. Some want it OEM, others use common sense. Let us know how it all goes. Good luck....

 

[Tinstar]

 

[Tinstar]

So it’s home
Lots of spiders and fuse mod has not been done.

Nothing looks chewed and no sign of anything except spiders.
I do see evidence of wet stacking.

Engine turns over by hand
Oil and filter look new
No holes, rust or busted parts.

Onan tag fell off engine. No clue which side as the glue pattern doesn’t match
No sign of exempt plate.

Fuel tank smells horrible but when I drained some fuel it smelled fine.

Set has been sitting for a while.

Will hook up nato plug tomorrow and see if anything powers up.
Will not even attempt to start until fuse Mod parts arrive and are installed.

I did not mess with the switches.
The picture shows how I found them.
The 7-1/2a circuit breaker was either popped or pulled.

Time to get busy doing the recommendation's!!

 

[Tinstar]

Better detail pictures
First batch seemed fuzzy

 

[WWRD99]

View attachment 949296View attachment 949304View attachment 949311View attachment 949314View attachment 949315View attachment 949316View attachment 949318View attachment 949319View attachment 949320

Glad it got home. Looks really nice! I know this would be last on the list probably but my fuel cap looked like that too. I put the entire assembly in my electrolysis tank for a day and it took all that rust out. Cleaned the filler neck up inside nice. I thought about bead blasting it but that rubber seal and the filler tube has a tight screen on it so I didn't.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

No show stoppers visible. Looks good as a matter of fact. One step at a time, and you will be up and running.

 

[Tinstar]

This morning I removed the old ground cable and looked over everything again.
Attached slave cable, making sure the positive battery lugs were safe.
Pushed the test lights,......nothing.
Circuit breaker (7-1/2) is pushed in and glass fuse is good....Nothing

Fault interrupter reset does nothing and the small rocker CB on the side of it is in.
Panel is dead
Dead cranks just fine. No weird noises from engine.

Yes I will be reading the many other threads on this very issue and then troubleshooting.
The Fluke DMM is already out and ready.


..............So the FUN begins!!!

 

[Ray70]

Not to state the obvious, but is the RED E-Stop button pulled out?

 

[Ray70]

That Onan tag would have been glued to the block right where you see that white adhesive residue below and to the right of the starter.

 

[WWRD99]

This morning I removed the old ground cable and looked over everything again.
Attached slave cable, making sure the positive battery lugs were safe.
Pushed the test lights,......nothing.
Circuit breaker (7-1/2) is pushed in and glass fuse is good....Nothing

Fault interrupter reset does nothing and the small rocker CB on the side of it is in.
Panel is dead
Dead cranks just fine. No weird noises from engine.

Yes I will be reading the many other threads on this very issue and then troubleshooting.
The Fluke DMM is already out and ready.


..............So the FUN begins!!!

Is the big red button pushed in?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[Tinstar]

Not to state the obvious, but is the RED E-Stop button pulled out?

You know that gut sick feeling you get when someone points out the most simple and obvious explanation?

I honestly did not even think about that

I will go check that.

 

[Tinstar]

Not to state the obvious, but is the RED E-Stop button pulled out?

It was the red button.

Test lights still don't work, but it primes with fuel and I bumped the starter and it was working.
Panel night lights work
Pushing the test light button, there's still nothing.

No fuel leaks yet and no water in the water separator. Happy about that.

Time to read up!

EDIT:
Test lights work.
Once switch turned to prime/start, they worked just fine.
Good news is nothing was on.
We'll see once it's running

 

[Tinstar]

Is the big red button pushed in?

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

It is now!

I need another cup of coffee

 

[Tinstar]

That Onan tag would have been glued to the block right where you see that white adhesive residue below and to the right of the starter.

The tag was found on the other side on the bottom panel.
I will be looking today to see if the exempt tag is somewhere down there also.

Thanks

 

[2Pbfeet]

Seems like a very intact and generally clean unit to me. If it were me, I wouldn't be cranking to start without the fuse mod installed. Unknown history and all that.

I would not be surprised is it spits some smoke and carbon as you start to load it up, as it seems as if there is a bit of black wet stacking residue on the exhaust header and below it.

Since there is evidence of rodents getting in there, I would make sure that you take the top cover off to look for nests in the main AC section in the cube. You might also want to check the back of the TB2, the main power board, to check the potted EMI filters.

All in all it seems like you got your money's worth, at least from this armchair...

All the best,

2Pbfeet