MEP-803A frequency cable

Light in the Dark

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So the cable on my 2010 has never worked quite right. I was running it over the past weekend, and it seems I have lost hertz control through it (felt a spring or something twang in my hand, while turning... and no more hertz movement after that). It has always been resistant to locking at the full RPM setting (all the way out).

I have not torn into it yet, but I wanted to see if you all had ideas before I did. Seems like a pretty simple cable. My 97 cable works just fine... press center button, pull back, and it locks at full rpm. The 2010 has always resisted locking fully (maybe why it was surplus'd in the first place).

Thanks
 

DieselAddict

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The throttle cable has been discussed here a number of times. A quick search will get you pointed in the right direction for a replacement.

The best thing to do is to replace it and know you are in good shape. If I remember correctly the replacement is in the $50 range.
 

Light in the Dark

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Last edited:

Daybreak

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Ok here is the link to what I bought and hope to install this weekend on my 803a

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ET2O2W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


One of the reviewers said that it does not feature turning throttle control, but I verified with the manufacturer that it does. Probably the same company that is the OEM on it for the generator manufacturer. Will let you know how it goes!
Howdy,
So, do you have the cable in place? Did you trim any of the length off? it looks like you could fit it, and then trim the black covering back to where you need and simply cut the wire to the length you need.

Is the knob all black, or does it have that bright red button?
 

Guyfang

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You can trim it, but don't need to. We had a hard time getting 5 kw cables, so we simply ordered 10 KW cables. Why one should be easier to get is beyond me, but what can I say. We simply coiled it up, secured it with cable ties and if a short cable ever came in, installed it. I hated to shorten a cable, just didn't seem right. Might need a 10 KW cable someplace later on down the road.
 

Light in the Dark

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Yeah I haven't gotten around to it, sorry. I don't intend on cutting it unless I have to. Will loop and tie off as Guyfang mentioned. Does anyonen know the size of the cable stop at the end of the existing cable (or if it can be reused)? I haven't opened the case in a week or two to look.
 

Light in the Dark

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Oh, and to answer the question... the center button is red. Appears to be OEM in every other aspect though.
 

Light in the Dark

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Thought I would circle back... hope to get some time Sunday or Monday to play. Has anyone changed out this cable before... any tips about issues that have arisen (Im most concerned about being able to access the backside of this cable in the enclosure).
 

Light in the Dark

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So much for free time... circling back. The cable from Amazon fits just fine (appears to be OEM truly at all levels). In taking the stock cable out, I found out that the cable stop end was a nonremoveable overcast part. Anyone that has replaced this cable, can you recommend a cable stop that will fit? It measured out at about 5.5mm.. so I assume anything smaller than this should be usable (of course trying to stay as large as possible at the same time).

This is my leading candidate (same manufacturer, so good sign of quality there): https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03338...rd_wg=aTxqd&psc=1&refRID=D3DMY6KSS42KSGGDZA13
 

csheath

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You can trim it, but don't need to. We had a hard time getting 5 kw cables, so we simply ordered 10 KW cables. Why one should be easier to get is beyond me, but what can I say. We simply coiled it up, secured it with cable ties and if a short cable ever came in, installed it. I hated to shorten a cable, just didn't seem right. Might need a 10 KW cable someplace later on down the road.
Could have been the 5 kw cables were all defective and pulled from the shelves?

I remember working at a Harley Davidson dealer back around 1975. A lot of the Sportster models were coming back burning oil and smoking before they got out of their 90 day or 3000 mile warranty. Turned out all the standard piston rings were not tempered. You could take a brand new standard piston ring and bend it like a pretzel. We were having to use .010" over rings and hand file the end gaps to fit the standard bore. Spent most of that summer doing ring jobs on Sportsters. One of the things that gave the AMF era Harleys a bad name.

Ain't it funny how us old codgers like to share unrelated stories from our past?
 

Guyfang

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Could have been the 5 kw cables were all defective and pulled from the shelves?

I remember working at a Harley Davidson dealer back around 1975. A lot of the Sportster models were coming back burning oil and smoking before they got out of their 90 day or 3000 mile warranty. Turned out all the standard piston rings were not tempered. You could take a brand new standard piston ring and bend it like a pretzel. We were having to use .010" over rings and hand file the end gaps to fit the standard bore. Spent most of that summer doing ring jobs on Sportsters. One of the things that gave the AMF era Harleys a bad name.

Ain't it funny how us old codgers like to share unrelated stories from our past?
That's one of the things I like best, sharing the unrelated story's. It's not all about nuts and bolts. A little color goes along just fine.

no, the cables weren't all bad, the government didn't buy enough of them. The normal wear and tear of gen sets was tremendously accelerated by our involvement in the wars. In peace time, a gen set is lucky to get started 1-2 times a month. In eastern bung hole Crack-a-Stan, they ran until they self distracted.
 

Light in the Dark

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So much for free time... circling back. The cable from Amazon fits just fine (appears to be OEM truly at all levels). In taking the stock cable out, I found out that the cable stop end was a nonremoveable overcast part. Anyone that has replaced this cable, can you recommend a cable stop that will fit? It measured out at about 5.5mm.. so I assume anything smaller than this should be usable (of course trying to stay as large as possible at the same time).

This is my leading candidate (same manufacturer, so good sign of quality there): https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-03338...rd_wg=aTxqd&psc=1&refRID=D3DMY6KSS42KSGGDZA13
Welp... tried to finally install the cable (has to be shortened by about 6' if I haven't said this already)... the cable stops above dont fit into the governor control. I just got a pair of 1/16" from the same company on order. Hoping the OD is smaller, so they fit (even if I might have to drill out the cross drill for the cable to pass through). Will advise.
 

Light in the Dark

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Well I feel pretty dumb... the alternate unit seems to be dimensionally equal to the first unit I bought... only its the cross drilled hole (for the cable) that is smaller. The OE cable had a little metal slug welded/soldered into position on the cable.... any other thoughts? I really dont want to go have something custom machined to work here. THese are all pretty common parts. Why its not fitting is making me scratch my head. Maybe I can futz with it again tomorrow.
 

Light in the Dark

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So I owe the forum some end closure here. The cable stop that I needed to make this work can be found here: http://www.mopeddivision.com/throttle-knarp-cable-stop-5mm-x-10mm-sold-each/

It is also known as a 'knarp'... go figure. So that mode listed above fit with the Dorman cable that I bought in replacement (and linked earlier in the thread). The only problem with this whole replacement setup is that the double nut that locates the governor cable does not work with this Dorman. I could not find nuts which would thread over the interior coiled metal liner like the OEM... so its got a small hose clamp holding it in place.
 

Light in the Dark

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Tomorrow. Need you guys to look at a pair of 2HNs I got in a generator... they test dead, but I wonder if these are supposed to have acid added to them (because the columns at the top are still wrapped in plastic). Will show tomorrow in a separate thread.
 
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