I’m new on here and would like some help please. After purchasing a mep 803A at an auction it would crank over but would not run. I began to inspect the injector pumps, the one furthest from the radiator was stuck half open. I took it apart and cleaned it with paint thinner and marvel mystery oil, I tried to start it again and it started right up but seemed to be running a little rich ( was smoking like it was under a load ), I let it run until it warmed up to 185 degrees and eventually shut it off, it continued running, the solenoid returned to the off position so I closed off the air and stoped up the exhaust. While running it ran super smooth, no odd noise just a little rich. So I took out all the injector pumps and cleans them all and insured the fuel rail was not binding . I had previously order a workshop manual that just arrived. After reading ( I realize I should have done this prior to touching the machine but obviously didn’t, that’s what knuckle heads do ) the manual says if I remove all pumps that I have to reset the Governor. I have all pumps cleaned and back in, the fuel rail is working smoothly but I don’t won’t to start it without some advice on this. Any help would be much appreciated.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Mep 803A will not Shut off
- Thread starter Glenn H
- Start date
- 15,891
- 22,158
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
As long as the IP's are in the rail, you can start the set. Is this the same set you started a thread about not knowing if the IP was put together right? What "shop manuals" do you have? Do you also have the TM's?
guyfang, yes it was the same thread, someone had put the pumps together with the piston that is pushed up by the tapet 90 degrees off . The first picture is correct the second picture was the way the pump was put together. I was told to contact you and I tried to send you a message but couldn’t get it to go through. I’ll let you know Monday how things are going. Thanks for your help. I’ve had a couple other members helping me as well and I greatly appreciate it.
Attachments
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,379
- 5,095
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Guy, are you able to delete threads? I believe this is a duplicate. All the good stuff is in the other one....
If y’all know how to delete this thread tell me and I’ll delete it. I’m not sure how it got duplicated, probably something I done unknowingly.
Ray I’ll post the results of correctly assembling the pumps on Monday, I really appreciate the help, I now understand why the IP needs to be counterclockwise toward the push rod tube, at least far enough to allow the rack to return the IP back to the off position when the engine is shut off and the solenoid goes back to the off position. It was that tip that got me thinking, if it was moved to the clockwise position as far as possible maybe the IP had been disassembled at some point as well. So I’m anxious to put this to the test. Again Thank you fellas so much for the help.
- 15,891
- 22,158
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Do you want to make this thread go away? If so, tell me to nuke it and it will happen. The reason you could not PM me is that you still have to few posts in the forum to use the PM function. If you want me to ring you, tell me and I will do that too.
Guy I correctly assembled the fuel pumps, the engine now starts and runs excellent, shuts off great but it now shows no volts and is reading 60hz. Before this it was reading 240 volts when set on single phase 220, I know that fixing the IP’s doesn’t have anything to do with the charging system, however prior to fixing them it did have 240 volts it just would not shut off, I had to restrict the air to shut it off. Can you help or should I start another thread? You can call if you don’t mind or answer here. Home is 276 251 8364 cell is 336 710 3412 but I don’t have much cell service at home. If I don’t answer the home number you can try the cell. I sure hope you can help
Ray I correctly assembled the fuel pumps, the engine now starts and runs excellent, shuts off great but it now shows no volts and is reading 60hz. Before this it was reading 240 volts when set on single phase 220, I know that fixing the IP’s doesn’t have anything to do with the charging system, however prior to fixing them it did have 240 volts it just would not shut off, I had to restrict the air to shut it off. Can you help or should I start another thread? You can call if you don’t mind or answer here. Home is 276 251 8364 cell is 336 710 3412 but I don’t have much cell service at home. If I don’t answer the home number you can try the cell. I sure hope you can help, I also replied to Guyfang maybe one of you fellows will have the answer.
robertsears1
Active member
- 255
- 118
- 43
- Location
- Near Apex/NC
If you are new to MEP generators, these start different than any thing else I have ever run. Make sure to hold the start switch in crank for several seconds after it starts, it will not hurt anything.. On my 804s, the instructions under the flip up lid says hold till at least 25 psi oil pressure . It is possible you are not exciting the field but did before possibly accidentally. If you are holding it long enough, use a meter on the lugs to check the voltage there, the gage may be bad now. Also cycle the AM-VM switch around periodically. Finally, never ever ever change either the hertz or phase/volts switch with the unit running. I think on 803s, it is behind the control panel.
Thanks for the help, I tried holding the start switch a few seconds longer but didn’t help.
I have already check for power on the outlet post and there is not any power there. Thanks again for the help.
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,379
- 5,095
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Well, I guess we shouldn't delete this one now because you're adding more info to this one instead of the other post, so....
For your no power issue, first thing you should do is look to the left of your voltage regulator and see if there is a fuse holder mounted right there.
If so, this is the Quad fuse modification which protects the generator from a potential voltage spike.
Check if that fuse is blown. ( assuming you have it )
If there is no fuse holder there then you do not have the fuse modification done and you should do it ASAP.
For your no power issue, first thing you should do is look to the left of your voltage regulator and see if there is a fuse holder mounted right there.
If so, this is the Quad fuse modification which protects the generator from a potential voltage spike.
Check if that fuse is blown. ( assuming you have it )
If there is no fuse holder there then you do not have the fuse modification done and you should do it ASAP.
Ray this is a picture or the voltage regulator and inside the interior panel. The only fuse I see is the one to the left and it is a 32 volt fuse. I checked it right after I shut the engine off that fuse checked good but was hot to the touch. It is set on 110 at the moment but I’ve tried setting it on 220 single phase as well but that didn’t help.
Attachments
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,379
- 5,095
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Ok, you Do not have the fuse mod. done to your set.
The gray fuse holder to the left of the AC select switch is your alternator.
Look at Call Me Colt's recent posting just below this one called 802 Fix up thread 2.0
He just added the fuse mod to his 802 and posted a picture of what it normally looks like.
That fuse is important because it prevents a possible voltage spike that can occur during the start sequence from reaching the generators quad winding and killing it. Hopefully that is not what happened to your machine, but if it is, fear not... there are ways to fix it.
Hopefully @kloppk will chime in.... he has a solution available for both a bad voltage regulator and / or blown quad windings, if that is what happened here.
The gray fuse holder to the left of the AC select switch is your alternator.
Look at Call Me Colt's recent posting just below this one called 802 Fix up thread 2.0
He just added the fuse mod to his 802 and posted a picture of what it normally looks like.
That fuse is important because it prevents a possible voltage spike that can occur during the start sequence from reaching the generators quad winding and killing it. Hopefully that is not what happened to your machine, but if it is, fear not... there are ways to fix it.
Hopefully @kloppk will chime in.... he has a solution available for both a bad voltage regulator and / or blown quad windings, if that is what happened here.
I see, I will place a fuse in between the Quad winding pins. This could be the culprit, I had to wind it for a little while be cause the injector pumps were dry for having been taken apart. Should there be an ohm that is standard across the quad pins? Could you possibly put me in contact with the member that has that solution, for some reason I cannot search a member, when I type in the user name it always show “oops something went wrong “ Ray I can’t tell you how invaluable you help has been. Thank you Sir.
- 1,968
- 3,069
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
You'll need to do some measurements to determine why the generator isn't producing power.
With the set running measure the DC voltage across terminals 5 & 6 of the VR with S1 in held in START. It ought to be about 7.6 volts DC.
If you get that that voltage then check the AC voltage at the convenience outlet for about 120 volts AC with set running and S1 held in START. Then check the AC voltage across VR terminals 7 & 8 with the set running and S1 held in START. Should see about 70 volts AC. Lets us know what you get for those readings.
With the set running measure the DC voltage across terminals 5 & 6 of the VR with S1 in held in START. It ought to be about 7.6 volts DC.
If you get that that voltage then check the AC voltage at the convenience outlet for about 120 volts AC with set running and S1 held in START. Then check the AC voltage across VR terminals 7 & 8 with the set running and S1 held in START. Should see about 70 volts AC. Lets us know what you get for those readings.
I won’t be back to where the Generator is until Monday, I will certainly do as you have explained and get back to you with some numbers. I do know that when the set was running this evening I check the voltage on the convenience outlet and while running it was 7.6 volts. Your help is very much appreciated Sir.
- 15,891
- 22,158
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
You are getting all the help you need 
Too many "helpers" sometimes is not good. I will cast an eye in here every day, but do not think I need to add anything.
Too many "helpers" sometimes is not good. I will cast an eye in here every day, but do not think I need to add anything.Thanks guyfangYou are getting all the help you need