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MEP-803A Won't crank Ouick Fix?

Guyfang

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When the S-1 is in the start position, you should also have voltage on pin seven, (7). Check that again! Pin seven is the wire needed to start the thing.
 

bocon

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Fuel pumps run in prime position, fuse is good, e-switch pulled out(22v present here when pulled out)...on s1 start switch in start position, power(22v) only on posts 3,4,and 2. Nothing on any others when in start position..the 10a circuit breaker switch can't move...up-down or rock in out...seems slid down tho according to arrow.
 

Guyfang

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By 10 amp circuit breaker, I assume you mean CB-1? If so, CB-1 is a push/pull Circuit breaker. Do you have voltage to both sides of the Circuit breaker? 22 volts is low. So test your meter and find out if the meter is reading right, or your batteries are low. Like I said before, in the start position, S-1 should have voltage, 24 volts on pin 7. Do you have that?
 

bocon

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I have 22v on circuit breaker CB-1, both sides, but nothing on S1 pin 7 in start position. Im trying to figure how pin 7 gets 24v..from the switch or from some other source. If its through the switch, maybe switch is out, but it feels fine. In start position, only 22v on pins 2,3,and 4. I really appreciate your help Guyfang. Also panel lights were working when I shut it off last, but now no panel lights either?!
 

Guyfang

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It sounds like your S-1 switch is bad. Or, a jumper is missing on the switch. Is the switch blue plastic? Os a more substantial white plastic and metal? The blue plastic switches were world famous for going bad. You can check to see if the wires are maybe loose or broken (often the problem) at the switch. You can also disconnect the switch and test it using the schematics. Its not hard.
 

bocon

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Thanks, I'll check the switch as soon as I find a switch continuity map to follow. Thanks so much, oh and my switch is the blue plastic one, so if it prone to fail, that's a good lead for me to follow. I'll keep you posted. Any ideas where to find one of these switches? I found one on ebay, but it's $300...ouch! But if that's what they cost..again thanks for all your help!
 

kloppk

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Here is the continuity map.
(Ignore the double images. They are both the same)

You can also search for a 75902LV switch. It's not plastic and is a good rugged drop in replacement for the original switch.
Got mine a couple of years ago on the big auction site for ~$40
 

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Guyfang

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Bocon,

The switch continuity map is in the TM's. If you don't have them, go to the TM's section and download them. You might also PM a dude named Daybreak, in SS. He might be able to help you for a switch. But first, test it to make sure that's your problem.
 

bocon

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Many thanks for all the help...without being too ungrateful, would you know which terminals should have power on the S-1 switch in the off position. That way I can at least rule out wiring to switch. Thanks soooo much!
 

kloppk

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Terminals 2,4,6,8 in S1 should have ~+24 volts on them. They are all tied together.

You'll need to have the Emergency Off button in the out position, the Dead Crank Switch in the NORMAL position and CB1 closed to enable +24 to get to the S1 Master switch.

The path is: Battery +24 ---> Dead Crank Switch pin 2 -----> Dead Crank Switch pin 3 ----> Emergency Off Switch (Pin 1) ----> Emergency Off Switch (Pin 2) ----> CB1 pin 2 ----> CB1 pin 1 ---> S1 pins 2,4,6,8
 
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bocon

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I checked the power at the S-1 switch in off position. only pins 2 and 4 have 24v...so I need to trace power down from pins 6 and 8 to find where the break is for these two lines. Looks to tedious task, will LYK what I find when I find anything. At least it would seem the switch may be fine.Thanks for all your help and guidance.
 

Guyfang

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No, you don't understand. When S-1 is in the off position, you should have 24 volts to all the pins, because they are all connected by jumper wires, on the switch, (or metal strips) like a common buss. So if you have 24 volts to pins 2 and 4, but not 6 and 8, the switch is bad, or missing the jumpers. As you said it ran before, and you have not taken the switch apart or changed any wires, the switch has to be bad. The reason you have no panel lights is because pin 6 goes to S-2, the panel light switch. I have not bothered to look up pin 8, because its a waste of time. Change the switch.
 
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bocon

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Thanks so much I'll search for a switch, ebay has one for $300..ouch...I can't tell you how much I have appreciated all your help. I'll let you know when I have changed it out.:D
 

Guyfang

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[
You can also search for a 75902LV switch. It's not plastic and is a good rugged drop in replacement for the original switch.
Got mine a couple of years ago on the big auction site for ~$40


This was posted by KLOPPK.
 

Billy2642

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Good to go!
Had this same problem today with one. Turns out, whoever put this starter on put one of the small white wires on the wrong lug. Luckily I had another 804a to compare to to find it. Only took me an hour of pulling my hair out and cussing to figure it out lol
 
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