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Mep 804A

grywitt

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Yes sir... That would work and a little breeze wouldn't hurt either. Lots of guys here just use an oven or two wired in as a load bank. Wired appropriately of course.
Of course! After posting pics like that I'm almost afraid to admit that electrical is my trade. I wasn't doing that work for money but for fun though. I considered using space heaters or heat guns but I wanted to give it a nice even three phase load. I ordered a 15kv heat kit for a furnace that I plan on using with a fan to give it a full load. I wasn't kidding about my new addiction. I now have this 804A and an 802A but I'm going to pick up an 803A on monday. As of now it doesn't run but I'm hoping it's not to serious. Guess i'll find out it does have over 6000 hours.
 

Mullaney

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Of course! After posting pics like that I'm almost afraid to admit that electrical is my trade. I wasn't doing that work for money but for fun though. I considered using space heaters or heat guns but I wanted to give it a nice even three phase load. I ordered a 15kv heat kit for a furnace that I plan on using with a fan to give it a full load. I wasn't kidding about my new addiction. I now have this 804A and an 802A but I'm going to pick up an 803A on monday. As of now it doesn't run but I'm hoping it's not to serious. Guess i'll find out it does have over 6000 hours.
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Yep... You have the Green Disease for sure!
Already have two, going for the third. Yessir, you have it bad. :)
 

grywitt

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About these no fuel floats. Does anyone know where we can get just the float for these switches? I think the float has lost Buoyancy. Heck I would replace the switch but everyone is out of stock and I'm pretty sure its the float anyway. If I find a place to get them I will share it.
 

Guyfang

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I have never seen a military bought/supplied float lose buoyancy. Never. Fall apart, turn to dust/powder, loose the magnets, wires loose in the plug, but never loose buoyancy. The contacts can stick in the metal rod. Or get burnt and not make contact correctly. So take it out, put it in a container of fuel or water. Test the contacts. leave it over night, and check it again. I would fabricate a way to keep the floats submerged.


Whats the NSN of the float. With that you can track down who supplied the float switch to the military. And maybe the company that produced it. They are not always the same.
 

grywitt

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I have never seen a military bought/supplied float lose buoyancy. Never. Fall apart, turn to dust/powder, loose the magnets, wires loose in the plug, but never loose buoyancy. The contacts can stick in the metal rod. Or get burnt and not make contact correctly. So take it out, put it in a container of fuel or water. Test the contacts. leave it over night, and check it again. I would fabricate a way to keep the floats submerged.


Whats the NSN of the float. With that you can track down who supplied the float switch to the military. And maybe the company that produced it. They are not always the same.
Hello. Thanks again for being here and so willing to help people. Can you please help me figure out how to make a new thread? I would like to make one for each of my gens. I'm looking around on here and not seeing the make my own thread tab.
 

grywitt

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I have never seen a military bought/supplied float lose buoyancy. Never. Fall apart, turn to dust/powder, loose the magnets, wires loose in the plug, but never loose buoyancy. The contacts can stick in the metal rod. Or get burnt and not make contact correctly. So take it out, put it in a container of fuel or water. Test the contacts. leave it over night, and check it again. I would fabricate a way to keep the floats submerged.


Whats the NSN of the float. With that you can track down who supplied the float switch to the military. And maybe the company that produced it. They are not always the same.
I think I started one about the 803. If I did that correctly I will start one about my 802 and 804 also.
 

grywitt

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I have never seen a military bought/supplied float lose buoyancy. Never. Fall apart, turn to dust/powder, loose the magnets, wires loose in the plug, but never loose buoyancy. The contacts can stick in the metal rod. Or get burnt and not make contact correctly. So take it out, put it in a container of fuel or water. Test the contacts. leave it over night, and check it again. I would fabricate a way to keep the floats submerged.


Whats the NSN of the float. With that you can track down who supplied the float switch to the military. And maybe the company that produced it. They are not always the same.
I will work on this more as I get time. It is interesting. The problem is definitely in the float switch I'm not getting false readings beyond the switch. Every time it says no fuel I unplug the switch and check the contacts in the first spot it plugs in with my meter and sure enough it's closed. If I take the float switch out and move it up and down it works perfectly then when I put it back in the tank it says things are fine. I come back the next day turn the switch to run and the problem is back. I will experiment more and figure out what's going on. Do you know a good source to buy these? It looks like green mountain generators is usually a good place to source parts for these but they are out of stock and I am not having any luck. I think I will swap the two floats on the switch and see if the problem moves with the float. Thanks again
 

Guyfang

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Go to the top of the page. Click on Generators. Then you are in the Generator forum. On the right side someplace should be a button that says "start new thread. Click on it. Give it a good title, and go for it. Easy. I am gone for a few days, if you need help, someone should be able to direct you. Or write: @Mogman , just like I did and he will help. For a truck guy, he is alright!!:D
 

kloppk

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I will work on this more as I get time. It is interesting. The problem is definitely in the float switch I'm not getting false readings beyond the switch. Every time it says no fuel I unplug the switch and check the contacts in the first spot it plugs in with my meter and sure enough it's closed. If I take the float switch out and move it up and down it works perfectly then when I put it back in the tank it says things are fine. I come back the next day turn the switch to run and the problem is back. I will experiment more and figure out what's going on. Do you know a good source to buy these? It looks like green mountain generators is usually a good place to source parts for these but they are out of stock and I am not having any luck. I think I will swap the two floats on the switch and see if the problem moves with the float. Thanks again
It could also be a problem with the A9 Float Switch module or even the Fault Monitor itself. The no fuel fault comes in on pin 2 into the Fault Monitor. If you have the fault displayed check pin 2 of the Fault Monitor connector for 24 volts DC. If 24 volts is there then its a float switch or float switch module issue. If no 24 volts there then I'd sudpect the Fault Monitor.
 

grywitt

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It could also be a problem with the A9 Float Switch module or even the Fault Monitor itself. The no fuel fault comes in on pin 2 into the Fault Monitor. If you have the fault displayed check pin 2 of the Fault Monitor connector for 24 volts DC. If 24 volts is there then its a float switch or float switch module issue. If no 24 volts there then I'd sudpect the Fault Monitor.
Thank you. I will dig into this more.
 

grywitt

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Well I finally decided to play with this a little more. I thought I had it figured out. I adjusted the top and bottom float stop positions and In my lap it was working perfectly. Then I put it in gnd tank and if I put it all the way down it still would act up but if I raised it inch it worked stayed open and everything was fine I checked it a couple more times that evening and thought the float positions just needed adjusteded because depending on where the top floats range of motion was the bottom float wouldn't act right. So now today I checked it and sure enough low fuel light. It is definitely the switch because with my ohm meter I verify that I really am getting a low fuel signal. Ugh!! I'm lost. I think my float switch is just messed up even though when I've got it out of the tank it acts fine. Anyone know where I can get one? Green mountain is out of stock and I haven't found any others. On the bright side though the gen runs great and holds 100% load without skipping a beat.
 

grywitt

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Well I tried a few more things. And again with it in my lap it was working. I went and attached it to the machine but with it out the tank if I rotated the float it has a spot where it drops out again (technically I guess it latches again) I could hear the relay click when I rotated it. After playing around for a while and swapping floats around one of them seems to not have that problem so it's on the bottom now. Now I wait another day or so and see if it holds. I've been tricked by this before. I added a couple pics just in case someone might have one laying around and didn't realize.
 

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Mogman

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Those things are usually VERY dependable as long as the float floats and moves on the shaft freely.
It is simply a magnet that floats up and down on the shaft tripping reed switches connected to different values of resistors which are normally good for literally millions of "operations"
 

grywitt

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Those things are usually VERY dependable as long as the float floats and moves on the shaft freely.
It is simply a magnet that floats up and down on the shaft tripping reed switches connected to different values of resistors which are normally good for literally millions of "operations"
Right!! That's why it's driving me nuts. Lol. It's a very simple device but it sure is having fun laughing at me. The end of the switch appears to be slightly dented.i don't know if that's causing issues. I wouldn't think that one float would be meant to be on top or bottom? I did figure out that rotating the one would manage to close the switch just for a second. I also did have to move the Amari ring down a little because if it goes up to high it will latch again also. Maybe the magnets are getting tired. Lol. It's pretty old.
 

grywitt

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Location
Nm
Those things are usually VERY dependable as long as the float floats and moves on the shaft freely.
It is simply a magnet that floats up and down on the shaft tripping reed switches connected to different values of resistors which are normally good for literally millions of "operations"
One nice thing is that the only problem I've got with this machine is something that all I have to do to make the problem go away is unplug it. Ha ha.
 

Guyfang

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The dent in the bottom of the float. Its a known problem, (but doesn't happen often) that one of the magnets falls out. Then the switch will not latch/unlatch right. Is the dent where a magnet is/was?
 
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