Mike D's deuce recovery/modification thread

[welldigger]

I got the aero turbine 3535. They also make the 3535xl which has a built in resonater. It would probably be a bit quieter than the 3535. The reason I chose the 3535 over the xl is the 3535 fits perfectly between the fender and the stack brace. The xl will require a bit more fab work to fit. Go to www.jonesexhaust.com to check them out. Look on the sidebar on the left and go to the bottom to aero exhaust.

 

[skinnyR1]

Excellent, thank you for the info! The3535xl looks like the hot ticket for me. I will make it fit somehow, with the longer length and the resonator. I am going to be driving this truck regularly, with my family, so it needs to have a good compromise on the quiet level. I'll have to customize the mount to the windshield, and the guard.

The muffler is actually supposed to lower egt's too. Perfect. I have found it for $85 bucks shipped online.

 

[welldigger]

Not a problem. The 3535xl will probly require less fab work than the walker would. Its only 6 inches longer than the 3535. I was more concerned with low speed cruising off road. So I won't need quite as much sound reduction. I'm still going to wear muffs on the highway. Unless by some miracle it works that well. Which I honestly doubt. But, I think it will do its intended purpose for me.

Take pictures of your install. I like to see how creative people get.

 

[skinnyR1]

I figure it is bigger than the moroso and dynamax, but smaller than the Donaldson or walker. Hopefully, a compromise between noise level and size.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Seems like a lot for a shiny glass pack......

A glass pack is a glass pack unfortunately. Unless they are packed with ss mesh instead I fiberglass. I like the way glass packs sound and they are cheap, but that comes at the expense of every few years they need replaced. They do quiet down the exhaust quite a bit too.

 

[welldigger]

Except the aero turbine isn't even remotely a glass pack.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

What is it then? They don't give a very good description on their website.

 

[welldigger]

Its uses a stainless steel air foil. This causes an acceleration of part of the gas flow. I don't know the exact technical details but basically it disrupts and cancels some of the sound waves. The entire construction of the muffler inside and out is stainless steel. The xl uses stainless mesh in the resonater.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yeah I found it then looks pretty nice. I shiny lol

 

[welldigger]

This is what the 3535 looks like installed. Bout to crank the truck and see if it helped any.

 

[skinnyR1]

Nice! Report back your findings, it looks great.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I'd be curious to see how it sounds. I was planning on running a glasspack and then slipping a 5" stack over it to hide the muffler and have a bigger stack for a clean install.

 

[welldigger]

Well I just got back from a test drive and to say I'm impressed would be an understatement. At an idle it has a nice hum. At full boar I still didn't need to wear my muffs. Now talking to someone while going down the road is still out of the question. I blame that mostly on tbe drivetrain noise. Just to give you an idea how well it worked I have a "D" turbo on my truck and I could hear it spool up and whistle!

After installing it I believe you can squeeze in the xl version with a resonater just like I installed mine. It's 6 inches longer than the 3535 but that includes the slip joints. Overall I couldn't be happier. Now to get the stack and muffler powdercoated flat black.

 

[skinnyR1]

Good to hear! Mine will be here next week.

I also just ordered a isspro turbocator boost/egr gauge, so I have that to install when it comes in as well.

 

[welldigger]

I should note that the top half of my stack will wiggle if you shake it with your hand. No big deal. I'll just bring it to a muffler shop and have them weld it for me.

 

[skinnyR1]

Filters and adapters came in today. I'm gonna grab some oil this week to do the change, and hopefully swap them in this weekend.

 

[skinnyR1]

Leaks leaks leaks everywhere. Rather then try to fix the stuff and freeze my butt off I'll post my questions on the forum

It is a toasty 20f today. I took the truck to run some errands, but first warmed it up in the driveway. Immediately, its leakin fuel and antifreeze from the engine area. I suspect the fuel was coming out of the turbo breather that runs to the crankcase, as that hose was loose. Maybe this was a cold starts thing? I dunno.

Tha antifreeze was coming from various other lose clamps. I was able to tighten those clamps and I'm now all set. Attribute this to just sorting the truck and driving it.

So, I drove the truck around for a couple hours, and return home. Now, I have a couple new fuel leaks, as well as a leak from the front axle output shaft. I'm not sure if that is what it is called.

The fuel leak is from the tank line, near the frame. It is also leaking from the injector pump.

The air tank is also leaking from the valve, but I plan on putting ball valves on anyway.

Too cold to fix this stuff at the moment, but I can source parts at least.

1. Where do I find replacement hard fuel lines? It looks like 3/8 to me, and just turns the corner into the frame where it meets a fitting.
2. The tank is leaking at the top, as you can also see from the picture. Is there a replacement gasket?
3. Any thoughts on the injector pump leak? It I take that line off, is it just like a nut and ferule? The leak is from the line with the cap pulled up.
4. Is there an output shaft seal kit. Is that what its called?
5. I also have a torn front boot, but I have seen other posts on that.

 

[welldigger]

Hard fuel lines you will have to make yourself. Flexible copper works well. On your axle that would be your pinion seal leaking. Looks like you also have some oil seepage coming from that axle boot. You should check out the upgraded inner axle seals I sell. Not cheap but worth every penny.

Your fuel tank leak you can fix by cutting a new gasket from a sheet of fel-pro or similar gasket sheet. The injector lines just screw in. You can try loosening it and retorquing it to no more than 25 ft lbs and that may or may not stop the leak. If its the center bolt leaking try the same procedure except I believe its torque us 45 ft lbs.

 

[skinnyR1]

Thanks welldigger!

 

[skinnyR1]

Had a little bit of time this weekend to wrench on the truck. And it was also above 0 degrees f out side too.

I have a growing pile of parts to install. All spin on filters, my muffler, locking door handles. No time for that stuff though.

I fixed a couple of leaks. The ip leak was fixed just by tightening the fittings. They were previously hand tight. I bought some 1/2 od copper line from home depot for the fuel tank line leak. 10 feet for 25 bucks. Didn't have a chance to flare it and install it though.

I did install ball valves on the air tanks, to fix that leak.

Baby steps I guess, one thing at a time.