My first M998: Fixing her up

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Retiredwarhorses

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So, while waiting for fuel tank parts and other goodies, starting to think about the alternator. The 60A in it overcharges....

The way I'm understanding this is:

Wire 568A is the "enable". With this wire disconnected, the alternator does not produce output. With it connected, battery voltage quickly goes above 30V.
The voltage adjustment screw makes no difference.
Wire 2A is a bit of a mystery to me. It goes to the protective control box and to a frequency switch inside, right? So that tells the box that the engine is running? So shouldn't affect alternator output (not related to my problem), right?

Should I do anything else to test this thing? I mean, it seems like the regulator on the alternator is bad.... or am I missing something?

I did buy a 200A Niehoff dual voltage alternator to play with... It may or may not need repair, but I figure it maybe more fun (ie. a better investment of time) to repair the 200A and install that rather than repairing the 60A.
Your regulator is failing on the 60amp...simple fix.
 

1000eemonarch

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>> Your regulator is failing on the 60amp...simple fix.

Agree...

However as I was researching fixing the 60A, I started looking at 200A N1225 vs 210A N1387 and Neihoff literature.... Now I have an N1225 coming to play with and got a regulator off a N1387 to play with because I like the diagnostics LED's and the extra plug for the EPM. Sorry, I go on tangents easily....

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I'm just having fun learning this alternator stuff. Planning on placing the 60A next to the 200A and playing with em see which I like better and which is more fun to fix.

Completely agree just fixing the 60A is the simple and easy thing to do. I'm being silly here....

Oh, heard back from the seller of the all metal fuel strainer "sock", said they really are all metal. But no more info, no original packaging. I'm still thinking about the metal vs plastic "sock".

The sheet metal shields that go between the fuel tank and the driveshaft have yet to be shipped from AM General... hmm this takes a while hahah
 
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1000eemonarch

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Weekend update.... Received the N3225 regulator, and N1225 alternator. Here's the 200A beast:

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It's used, it's dusty, the fan shroud is a bit bent up. The regulator is the stock N3135 with a newer date code than the alternator itself, someone's messed with it already. But looks pretty normal for a used alternator to learn on, so I'm perfectly happy with it.

It's huge! I read all the mentions of the 400A alternators and looked at the photos. Those things must be insane.... this 200A is plenty fat. Saw the 60A to 200A conversion kits for sale on fleapay and could not resist getting one. Figure it's worth that in scrap with the copper wire and the 50lbs iron bracket LOL. And yes, I can't belive it's cast iron and that heavy. My 0-60 time will suffer with this install..... And I don't like the v-belt setup, this thing wants a serpentine belt and a 6.5 and ... ok rant off....

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It's kinda dusty inside but not bad... I'll keep cleaning and looking at this thing for a bit...

OK more observations... The 60A alternator looks like 1960's tech. It's brushed, and not power dense at all. The 200A is way more modern in design, brushless, and the N3225 regulator even has can-bus! Is that better or worse? Well, the Niehoff is a bit more power dense than the 60A, and Niehoff claims better efficiency. Neither alternator is impressive on power density and efficiency but I'll take an improvement as a good thing. Niehoff happens to be a very friendly company and I like their engineering. Which is more reliable? Well my only experience with the 60A is not a good one so far (it overcharges batteries, not nice). Figure I'd test drive a Niehoff 200A see how it feels.

Strong suspicion, is I will fix up the 60A and the 200A, enjoy learning about both of them, daydream of an N1387 210A to play with. Oh and do my N3225 regulator on N1225 alternator experiment. Then put the 60A back in the truck after swapping the regulator on it haha. Place the 200A and retrofit kit on the shelf for later.

Wondering if I should make a test jig for running these alternators.... be kinda annoying to swap alternators and mounting brackets in and out of the truck...

BTW thanks for all the info here and via PM, awesome to have you guys to bounce all the silly ideas around with.

Thanks,
Alex.
 
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1000eemonarch

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I started feeling guilty about ignoring this project for so long, so I decided to put the fuel tank together....

Oh, and the SF-97 is taking for ever! It's well over half a year since I paid for the truck (it did take 4 months to get the truck tho).

New sock in there...
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I like the new style fuel sender. Yes, it sure looks like Milcommoguy is correct, these appear to have a magnetic float inside and reed switches and resistor divider. Sure looks more robust and elegant than the old style float.
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The new metal shroud has very large mounting holes.... did I mention I hate fender washers? I ended up with McMaster 90377A157 for washers, they are black-oxide stainless and look pretty decent. Thinking I should put some blue Locktite as I hate tightening these screws much, and that shroud looks like it could rattle loose.
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For the fuel hoses I'm going with Parker 801 hose because it's nice stuff and, well, the blue color is pretty haha. Oh, and I hate the classic hose clamps as much as I hate fender washers. Using some constant-tension spring-band clamps here.
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And a T-bolt clamp for the fuel fill.
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Dressed all the gaskets with fuel-rated Permatex on both sides, and same for all the pipe threads. Letting it cure overnight and will install tomorrow..
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Now if only I could find a decent deal on some nice tires.... And I'm seriously tempted to pester the GL people re the SF-97 but don't want to annoy them too much.

Thanks,
Alex.
 

TOBASH

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And I'm seriously tempted to pester the GL people re the SF-97 but don't want to annoy them too much.

Thanks,
Alex.
You feel guilty? I would light a proverbial fire under their asses and have an attorney send them a written threat!

They own you an apology and money for their half assed freak show that they call good service.

IMHO
 

1000eemonarch

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Got the fuel tank installed... Here's the new and old style rear diff mount bracket:
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In the truck:
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The T-bolt fuel filler hose clamps... They are still tricky to get to, but looks more robust than the screw type.
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And new hoses at the fuel pump:
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Wow, after all the pressure washing, this thing is still pretty dirty. I'm debating doing more pressure washing vs figuring she will probably get dirty again offroading.... Other thoughts, I am partially kicking myself for not putting some protective covering (mesh/braid/corrugated plastic) over some the hoses to prevent rubbing, like where it's touching the frame. Might slip on a piece of split corrugated plastic wire loom stuff or do the spiral wrap stuff....

>> I would light a proverbial fire under their asses and have an attorney send them a written threat!

Sent them a friendly e-mail this morning asking for status.... I'm trying to be cordial in case I want them to change things on it or something... Also reading more of the threads here on what other people have gone though getting EUC and SF-97 processed in a timely manner. Truck was bought 10/09/2019, EUC approved and SF-97 requested 03/10/2019. So it's been 7 months since I bought it and 2 months since I submitted the SF-97 request. I have some more patience left in me...
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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First time I've seen a picture of the "newer" bracket. Now I know why people just trim the old style bracket.

Appreciate your posted pics!
 

1000eemonarch

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CA, SF Bay Area
After some polite e-mailing with GL in regards to the SF-97, it appears that they have filled out the form, but did not stamp/sign/bless it due to that office being closed on occasion of the virus. Quite understandable...

What's more interesting is they filled it out with a bunch of info missing, and not reflecting the info on the data plate, actual manufacture date of the truck, etc. I did fill out the "request for SF-97" according to info the data plate and year from researching the serial number and looking at component build dates, but they have "serial nor legible" and no year on the SF97.

That's why I'm being super friendly and patient, I'd rather get the paperwork filled out accurately. Honestly, not even sure if it matters in the long run, but might as well do it right at this point see where it goes.
 
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