My M35A2 Project aka Big Betty

[dangeroustyz]

GET ER DONE and come help me with mine. I had plans on tinkering with her today but ended up working on kitchen floor again. Then i gota work on car alittle. Maybe tommorrow i can tinker with 'the bitch'

 

[caliber1]

Where did you get the lug wrench from?

View attachment 410754

I bought one of these 1:78 geared lug wrenches a few days ago. I had my doubts, but I tried it out on a couple of lugs on my deuce this evening and it worked like magic.

The shop that did my tire change must have used a King Kong impact wrench. My 1" pneumatic impact wrench wouldn't even begin to spin them off. This geared lug wrench with only moderate effort popped them loose. No sweat.

If it proves to be durable, I'll be very happy with it. It seems solid and well made. I'm hoping that the internal parts and gears holds up to the hard use I'll subject it to.

 

[TMNT]

Details on the lug wrench:

You can find them on eBay from several vendors, or you can send an email to pemmer@gmail.com.

I received fast and trouble free service from sending an email and paying with PayPal. I think it arrived in 3 days via USPS.

It was $150 including several big sockets and a carry case. It even had a bud socket. They have 2 models:

Blue is 1:58 ratio

Yellow is 1:78 ratio

I got the yellow one.

 

[TMNT]

I had planned to post a video of the lug wrench in action but I've been called in to work. Maybe tomorrow.

I did manage to get about half of my fuel return lines changed out. The 1/4" lines for the injectors are pretty simple and quick. The 3/8" lines between the fuel filters and the IP will test your patience, commitment and physical stamina. You will also be very likely to violate any religious oaths or New Years resolutions you may have made against using foul language.

Just for the record, I hate this global economy and the increasing demand to be available 24/7!

 

[TMNT]

I figured out a few things about the fittings for the fuel return lines today. I had ordered a bunch of stuff from McMaster-Carr and I ran into a few problems when installing the new fuel lines this morning.

As usual when it comes to plumbing, a 3/8" sleeve isn't necessarily the 3/8" sleeve that you need.

I ordered this from McMaster-Carr for the 3/8" tubing between the fuel filters and the IP:

51835K282

Brass Dot Compression Tube Fit for Nylon Tube, Sleeve for 3/8" Tube OD, Packs of 10

I found out that these sleeves (the little brass bead on the outside of the tube) are too long for the original fittings.

The sleeve on the right is the McMaster-Carr part. The one on the left is from Lowes. The one from Lowes is a much better fit with the original nuts and Tee-Fittings. I was able to use the McMaster sleeves only after I filed away some material on each end.











Here's the sleeve that I bought from Lowes and it works well:

The same applied to the 1/4" sleeves for the 1/4" tubing between the injectors:

The one on the left is from McMaster and the one on the right is from Lowes. The one from Lowes works very well with the original nuts and Tee-fittings.

The inserts from Lowes and the inserts from McMaster worked equally well.

The McMaster inserts are:

	50915K245	Standard Brass Compression Tube Fitting, Tube Support for 3/8" Tube OD, Packs of 10
	50915K243	Standard Brass Compression Tube Fitting, Tube Support for 1/4" Tube OD, Packs of 10

I used this tubing from McMaster and it seems to work very well. This tubing is yellow, but you can choose from several available colors:

	5097T618	D. O. T. Choose-A-Color Nylon Tubing for Air, Nonreinforced, .17" ID, 1/4" OD, .040" Wall, Yellow, 25' L
	5097T662	D. O. T. Choose-A-Color Nylon Tubing for Air, Reinforced, .251" ID, 3/8" OD, .062" Wall, Yellow

I used the original threaded nuts as the ones I ordered from McMaster were the wrong gender. I ordered the female version when I needed the male version.

 

[TMNT]

New fuel return lines.

 

[TMNT]

Replaced all oil and fuel filters with NAPA Gold filters and changed the engine oil.

Looked all over town for 80W-90 with the proper API/SAE ratings for the deuce transmission with no luck. I found one quart of Lucas 80W-90 with the MT1 and MIL rating, and apparently their store doesn't offer it in 5-gallon pails, or even in 1-gallon jugs.

I'll go to NAPA next week and see what they can order for me.

Planning on breaking the mirror mounts down tomorrow, strip and paint them and get the hardware back in working order.

 

[Heath_h49008]

Tractor Supply has the lube. "Ford Tractor oil"

http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...ory_rn=&top_category=&urlLangId=&cm_vc=-10005

 

[clinto]

Come over tomorrow, I have plenty of the correct 90wt. stuff.

When you go to Napa, the 5 gallon bucket of what you want is part # 65-205.

 

[TMNT]

Thanks, Heath. I saw that at TSC yesterday but wasn't sure it was the right stuff.

Clinto, I'd love to ride out there today but I have so much to get done here. 2 bikes to fix as my son has turned in to Mr. Destructo, 3 vehicles to wash, and who knows what else. Ain't it funny how the stuff we own ends up owning us?!

Heck, I might fix one bike, do a quick "hose job" on the vehicles and ride out to see you. I might even take the top off of Betty and drive her. I'll shoot a text your way later if I can head that direction.

 

[M211guy]

I might be gettin 2 of these....

 

[dangeroustyz]

Scott. If you come out this way.. You gota hit me up.

Thanks, Heath. I saw that at TSC yesterday but wasn't sure it was the right stuff.

Clinto, I'd love to ride out there today but I have so much to get done here. 2 bikes to fix as my son has turned in to Mr. Destructo, 3 vehicles to wash, and who knows what else. Ain't it funny how the stuff we own ends up owning us?!

Heck, I might fix one bike, do a quick "hose job" on the vehicles and ride out to see you. I might even take the top off of Betty and drive her. I'll shoot a text your way later if I can head that direction.

 

[TMNT]

My son, LOKI85, and I took the soft top off of Betty and drove over to Clinto's place and spent the afternoon there.

We met 3rdaavbn there. He and Clinto had just finished swapping in a new engine and getting the winch installed on 3rd's deuce. Very sweet running engine, too.

LOKI's been stuck in Mississippi by himself with a recently purchased deuce. He's in Georgia doing some work for me and he's enjoying the opportunities to meet some other owners and be more involved with the Georgia SS.

Dangerous, man I didn't see your post until after I got back home. You should have sent me a text. Would have been great to have you join us, but we just jumped in the truck and rolled. (Well, after I did my pre-ride inspection.) I didn't think about it, man but I should have. My bad, and I'll definitely hit you up the next time we go that way. I need to get back out to Clinto's, it's always a good time.


It was a 144 mile round trip and Betty had no issues.

 

[TMNT]

Well, yesterday I had very good luck removing my driver side mirror. I need to clean it up, repaint it, and reinstall with new hardware. The hardware came out pretty easy with a little heat. All of it with the exception of the door hinge bolts.

Those bolts are seized in the hinges and I cannot get them to budge. I consulted Clinto and then I tried PB Blaster, a bit of pounding, a bit of wrenching, a bit of heat and a bit more pounding.

I broke the head off of the lower hinge bolt, bent a 1/4" drift, and I started moving the whole hinge. Oops.

Now that the hinge bolt is broken, I'm committed and I can't just stop and leave it alone.

I'm letting the PB work for a day or two, in hopes that it will loosen it up. Any other ideas on getting that bolt out without ruining the door hinge?

 

[BlipOnTheRadar]

Heat is the only answer. But i would try cycling heat and cold in rapid sucession. Let the liquid wrench do its wonders, but if it still won't budge, try heating it, geting it very hot but not to cherry or melting point, then cool it as rapidly as you can. It does have a tendency to make metal a bit brittle if you do this to often, but if this is a rolled metal hinge, not cast or drilled, the heat will expand all of the metal, bolt and hinge alike, then the cold will shirink the hinge rapidly arround the still expanded / hot bolt. it will in efect, squeeze the bolt to a smaller size, or the hinge to a slighly larger one. Wait for the parts to come back to ambient temp, douse in liquid wrench, and try it again. You will be re-painting the part anyway, a little bit more won't make a a real big differance, right?

Old Dog...

 

[clinto]

 

[TMNT]

View attachment 417363

Yep.

 

[TMNT]

Finally! I got both door hinge bolts out. Heat, water, PB Blaster, pounding, and repeat until successful. Man, those hinge bolts fight to the last 1/4 inch. I thought I had them beat when I got them to move a little. No such luck. The last 1/4" of movement was as stubborn as the first.

Now I can get the parts cleaned, stripped and painted. A few pieces of new hardware from my buddy at Threads For The South and I'll have the driver side back together.

 

[BlipOnTheRadar]

Congrats on the door, But may I ask? What is PB blaster? Kind of a liquid wrench?

 

[TMNT]

Congrats on the door, But may I ask? What is PB blaster? Kind of a liquid wrench?

That's exactly what it is. It's a very good penetrating oil.