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I hate to tell you but that oil leaking at the exhaust by the turbo is a major sign that the turbo is leaking. There really should not be any oil in the exhaust pipe. Take the pipe off and look at the turbo. If you see crusty oil build-up then you have a leaking turbo.Now that it's running again, it's given me some motivation to do some of the other modifications I've been planning.
Installed two keyed battery disconnects. One for 12v, one for 24v. Just need to install the 12v alternator and fuse block now.
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More of a repair than a modification, but I noticed oil leaking from the exhaust pipe where it clamps to the turbo. I either lost the gasket when I had it apart, or it didn't have one to begin with. Anyway, I made a improvised gasket for that out of copper wire. We'll see how it works.
It's only an issue when it's idling running the boom, otherwise it burns it off. But it has been making an oily mess on the starter.
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He said it was mostly during crane operations, you sure its not just wetstacking?I hate to tell you but that oil leaking at the exhaust by the turbo is a major sign that the turbo is leaking. There really should not be any oil in the exhaust pipe. Take the pipe off and look at the turbo. If you see crusty oil build-up then you have a leaking turbo.
I hate to tell you but that oil leaking at the exhaust by the turbo is a major sign that the turbo is leaking. There really should not be any oil in the exhaust pipe. Take the pipe off and look at the turbo. If you see crusty oil build-up then you have a leaking turbo.
I think it's a combination of wetstacking and leaking exhaust valve guides. Before I took the heads off, I thought the rear of the rear head gasket was leaking oil as there was oil running down the back of the block and firewall. After I got the heads off I found out the head gaskets were fine and weren't leaking at all. The oil was coming from the #6 exhaust valve and the exhaust manifold gasket on #6 had a portion missing, so it was blowing out there and running down the block and firewall.He said it was mostly during crane operations, you sure its not just wetstacking?
When you have a new toy, you have to go try it out, right?I really like the extra versatility (being able to swap beds). Is the 5th wheel back far enough to provide the clearance with a trailer? Or will you have to remove the bumperettes?
Good job !Well the fuse block finally came in from Amazon, so I was able to get the 12 volt wiring in place and the alternator wired up. Started the truck up... And the alt didn't work... Double checked the wiring, checked all the connections, checked everything with a meter... Nothing.
So, I dug around and found another alt, swapped the pulley over, mounted it, and... This one doesn't work either. It seems to have a shorted field.
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Before doing all that a third time, I figured there had to be an easier way of finding out if they work. After going through 5 or 6 I finally found one that worked. I guess I shouldn't expect much from used alternators I gave next to nothing for. Apparently they were taken off for a reason...
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Go to install the next alt and found a camouflage stowaway.
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Installed. Looks better than the orange one.
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The resistance of the indicator bulb I put on the dash wasn't enough to start the alt charging, so I had to add some resisters across it. Played around with a few different ones with test wires til I found the right combination, then soldered them across the bulb.
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It works! I now have a full 12v system to power whatever I want to run.
Thanks!Good job !
It came on the truck. The truck is a 1966, but the engine has rebuild tags from 1989. I would think they would have put the 60A alt on when they put the rebuilt engine in, but I guess not.WOW!
Don't see too many of the old 25amp generators! Ever thought of upgrading to a common 60a alt(militarily speaking)?
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