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My New Knuckle-Boom Deuce Thread.

M37M35

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M37M35

Well-known member
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648
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Location
East Central Oklahoma
The latest modifications...

I swapped out the original air-horn for a 30" Grover I had laying around. The electric horn didn't work so I removed it, and the trumpet end of the Grover fit nice and snug into the hole. It even lined up with the original air-horn bracket, so I put a band there to hold it in place. I moved the original solenoid valve to the new horn.

Not to knock the distinctive sound of the original air-horn, but it's too high-pitched for my liking. The long Grover is much deeper and louder. If I find another solenoid valve, I'll add the original horn back to another switch and have them both.


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I believe one can never have too much light, so I added a couple LED lightbars across the cab. After they were mounted I painted everything OD to match the truck. I plan to add a bunch more lights, so an alternator upgrade will be in my future!

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Tracer

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Knuckle-boom deuce

I would replace BOTH sides along with the hardware, there is a reason they became loose. stretched maybe ??
Exactly. When I purchased my truck I checked the front U Bolts and found the R/H nuts were loose and tightened them. About 1500 miles later I noticed excessive tire wear on the R/H front tire, and the U Bolt nuts were loose again. Replace the U Bolts, nuts, and lock washers, and as suggested by rustystud, grade 8 on the nuts and lock washers.
 
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86m1028

Active member
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I almost dislike reading about this truck :)
That has got to be one of the most useful tools a person could have.
I have an M916 sitting here just begging for a really big knuckle boom.

Please keep the pics coming & I like your LEDs also 👍👍
 

M37M35

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No need for an alternator upgrade. You running all led lighting keeps the amp draw to a minimum, and the factory alternator is good for 100 amps.

I wish I had a 100A alternator...

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The LED light bars are 180W each = 360W = 15A
Headlights on high beam 80W each = 160W = 6.6A
Marker lights, brake lights, gauges, dash lights, fuel pump... Maybe another 5A?

That's 26.6A, so I'm already overloaded. And that doesn't leave any capacity to charge the batteries.:-(
 

Recovry4x4

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FYI, there exists a harness adapter that allows you to run a later model alternator. The harnesses are usually less than $20
 

M37M35

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Location
East Central Oklahoma
BFR put the extra fuses and relays on the back of the cab between the seats, but it will be easier for me to add stuff to if it's under the dash, so I'm working on moving it before I wire the light bars to it.



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Jeepsinker

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I have a conversion kit you can have. Brand new. I'd give you an alternator too just to help you get away from the old generator, but you aren't exactly close.
 

M37M35

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Relays are moved under the dash and the light bars are wired up. I wired them to a 3-position switch so they can be switched 'ON' - 'OFF' or 'ON WITH HIGH BEAMS'. I haven't taken any pictures yet but they almost completely drown out the headlights!

At some point the passenger side outrigger was raised too high and bent the fuel tank and support. You can see the gap in the picture.

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But, it was easy to straighten...
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M37M35

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And, as a warning to others... Yes, these things WILL multiply!

I made the mistake of lurking Craigslist and found a deal I couldn't pass up...

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rustystud

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Since they are an endangered species we should adopt a breeding program for them. It is the right thing to do !
 

M37M35

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Location
East Central Oklahoma
Well it's been awhile since I updated this, so I figured I'd share what I've done to it the last few weeks, if anyone's interested.

The right outrigger didn't go all the way in and lock because it hit the fuel tank. I put a chain around it to hold it in while I decided what to do about it. I thought about finding a different fuel tank, or moving or modifying the stock tank. After a lot of pondering and measuring I decided the outrigger could stay out just enough to clear the tank, and I could extend the other outrigger the same amount, and still be legal width. Just. 8'5". All I had to do was drill two new holes for the outrigger locking pins. This also lets me add a second tank on the other side if I want to.


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gimpyrobb

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Yes, we love updates and pics, you got them both!



If the outriggers are hydraulic, you could use them to "modify" the fuel tank! Your idea was probably better though...
 

M37M35

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Location
East Central Oklahoma
It already had a pryo but I wanted to add a boost gauge. I made a mount for the steering column, put the boost gauge there, and moved the pryo there from the dash. I had another fuel gauge laying around so I put it in the dash to fill the hole.

Pulling an ~8,500# trailer up a hill at 2,200 rpm in 5th gear, it just touched 1,200* and made 13 pounds of boost. Okay? Not okay?


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