Jack, dont automatically assume your starter is bad, ive had to beat them once into submission and they never acted up again. also , you might want to pay attention where the fuel leak is, if its the pump it will run down the valley and out the rear of the engine and look like a rear main seal. if it has stopped, good!. also watch the filter base, it can leak from there. when it does you may have a time keeping it running. thanks. mark
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
New M1008. Many different issues.
- Thread starter Jack Lope
- Start date
The glow plugs are 12v . The stock system just happens to use resistors to drop the 24v down to 12v.
Almost all the issues you are having and will have, have been covered hundreds of times. Most of your questions are covered in the stickies and the CUCV wiki and FAQ.
Almost all the issues you are having and will have, have been covered hundreds of times. Most of your questions are covered in the stickies and the CUCV wiki and FAQ.
Last edited:
On the 60G glow plugs, it so happens that the end is too wide to plug the wire in. Compared to the old plug, it's about 25% wider. The packaging says it's the ACDelco 60G. I guess I could replace the wire ends? Is there another option?
Also, do you recommend antiseize?
Last edited:
- 1,952
- 269
- 83
- Location
- Colchester, VT
I just changed the wire ends when I put in 60Gs in my old blazer, it's easy to do.
goldneagle
Well-known member
- 4,426
- 855
- 113
- Location
- Slidell, LA
Yes that is what i did with mine, replace the spade connectors with new insulated ones that fit the glow plugs.
I_Publius
Member
- 315
- 3
- 18
- Location
- Prosper, TX
There is a shop in Lewisville who has rebuilt mine, twice. It's a little bit of a haul, but he has been in business for 30 years and does good work. PM me if you want the name of the shop and contact info.
PM sent. I'm willing to go to Lewisville for a good recommendation.
On another note, I was able to get six of the glow plugs out. One was a bit of a fight with some vice grips. Thankfully, the other two are the first and third on the drivers side.
On the Harley, I would never put the plugs in without anti-seize. Should I use anti-sieze on these glow plugs? Is it not needed on the cast iron block?
Last edited:
Hasdrubal
New member
- 690
- 4
- 0
- Location
- Vancouver BC
Maybe its not necessary, but I always put some never seize on my glow plugs. As for that starter 2 year warranty, most never even get to 2 years before they die. Think about the hassle of breaking down on the middle of nowhere, another re&re, paying shipping again, just to receive another sub standard component. No thanks! I get 6 years between rebuilds on my 27MT. Having it fail at any time in its life...would be unacceptable to me. It lets me know when the bushings are worn by cranking slower.
- 26,247
- 1,168
- 113
- Location
- NY
If you have not converted your GP supply to 12v, do NOT start the truck with any bad GPs in the truck. You will ruin the good ones.
This is why we convert the supply voltage to 12v(eliminating the resistor). When this has been done, when a GP fails, it does not affect the others.
All of this has been covered many many times before.
Please read before asking more.
This is why we convert the supply voltage to 12v(eliminating the resistor). When this has been done, when a GP fails, it does not affect the others.
All of this has been covered many many times before.
Please read before asking more.
usmcpatriot
Member
- 199
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bumpass, VA
About the GPs, go with the ACDelco 60G Glow Plug they are self regulating,.....
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,313
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
This is often a sign the solenoid contactor on the starter is a bit worn. For those who don't know, when you engage the starter, the solenoid first pulls the Bendix spur into the engine's ring gear, only after that happens does the juice flow to the starter motor. This is switched by a large copper disk that bridges two contacts in the starter solenoid. That is what goes bad...but there IS hope.
You CAN take this apart, rotating the contact pins 180 degrees which exposes fresh contacts there. And the copper disk? Flip it for a fresh side. A bit of grease on the center hole of this disk will assure it rotates to expose fresh contact area.
Takes me all of 30 minutes to revive a bum starter with this problem. A little longer to replace brushes, bushings and the like. Still, a fresh like new starter for a fraction of the cost of a rebuilt. And I have done this in the field.
Hasdrubal
New member
- 690
- 4
- 0
- Location
- Vancouver BC
You've done bushings in the field? What do you drive, a contact truck full of tools. Do tell us how you remove the 2 end bushings with an acorn and a hickory stick.
Still have the finicky starter, but it's on my list of to-do's.
I made some videos of problems I had with Glow Plugs.
Stuck then broke!
I'm no mechanic, but a video like this would have been helpful for me, so here it is if anyone want's to watch.
It's three parts. Part 3 is my favorite.
I made some videos of problems I had with Glow Plugs.
Stuck then broke!
I'm no mechanic, but a video like this would have been helpful for me, so here it is if anyone want's to watch.
It's three parts. Part 3 is my favorite.