I checked the fuse with my MM ohms. If I remember right the fuse is a time delay reset. I did remove it to test. I did apply 24V to X and Y. I applied ground and power to the terminals with the wires disconnected. Switch between hot X-ground Y and vice versa. Did not hear anything. I did get some sparking both ways. I would think it would click like a starter solenoid. I new by the end of the day I would most likely be at the stator head. Also the gen ran for 7 hours during a power outage. Ran my house and garage. I just went out to run it, and hear I am. Is there a way to test the AC voltage regulator ? As said it does have the fuse Mod., and the varistor. I dont think I will go to the stator head, I will most likely just sell it. At least I do have a title for the trailer.
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No AC output
- Thread starter 240hippie
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Who Replied?I fed 24V to X and Y on K1 terminals with the wires disconnected. Ground X power Y and vice versa. No clicking, just some tiny sparks. I took K1 apart best I know, because I cant find this "TM" you talk about for taking it apart. Took the 4 screws out of the top and cleaned the 3 contacts. Took the 4 screws out of the bottom and all looked brand new. I test across K1 A1 to B1 2.6 vac, A2 to B1 2.5 vac, B2 to C1 24.5 vac, B1 to C1 14.5 vac, C2 to C1 24.5 vac. Generator running.Okay, I already took it off completely. No improvement. Still nothing on the voltage gauge. Hertz is running 60 on the nose. The light for the AC Interrupter Switch does not light up. Nothing at the convenience receptacle. Everything else on the machine is working properly. I find it hard to believe that one little ground wire is the culprit here. I rechecked the fuse on the quad relay that is in the regulator, good. This thing is spotless under the panels. 40 hours on its tier 2.
You still do not seem to understand. I told you that the burnt wire HAS NOTHING to do with you lack of output. I tried to tell you that the wire could be burnt because you had the gen set improperly wired to the house.
I then told you how to check the K1. You seem to have forgotten to do that. This is also the first time you have told us that you have no voltage at the 120 volt outlet. That right there tells us the K1 is NOT THE Problem. You have no initial excitation.
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Take the fuse out of the holder and test it. it is a slow blow fuse, but there is no such thing as a time delay reset fuse.
Remove it and retest it.
Remove it and retest it.
I am sorry if I did not send this prior. Alot of suggestions.I fed 24V to X and Y on K1 terminals with the wires disconnected. Ground X power Y and vice versa. No clicking, just some tiny sparks. I took K1 apart best I know, because I cant find this "TM" you talk about for taking it apart. Took the 4 screws out of the top and cleaned the 3 contacts. Took the 4 screws out of the bottom and all looked brand new. I test across K1 A1 to B1 2.6 vac, A2 to B1 2.5 vac, B2 to C1 24.5 vac, B1 to C1 14.5 vac, C2 to C1 24.5 vac. Generator running.
I did remove it to test it. It tests fine.Take the fuse out of the holder and test it. it is a slow blow fuse, but there is no such thing as a time delay reset fuse.
Remove it and retest it.
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If the Fuse Mod fuse is good and you don't have power the the outlet then you need to perform the AC Voltage Regulator test. Post up the readings for each test step and we'll guide you from there.
I would need the procedure for testing the AC regulator.If the Fuse Mod fuse is good and you don't have power the the outlet then you need to perform the AC Voltage Regulator test. Post up the readings for each test step and we'll guide you from there.
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The VR test procedure is in the generators -24 TM
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Section 2-27 on pages 95/96
I looked thru the TM list and could not find 24TM. Is it listed another way?The VR test procedure is in the generators -24 TM
I think I found it in one from Guyfand, its the last PDF. Page heading is "Quad Circuit"I looked thru the TM list and could not find 24TM. Is it listed another way?
Okay, I would think this test would be running. So, Negative lead to generator ground , hot lead to test 1&2= 2.9vac,, 3=0 vac 4=25.0 vac,, 5=0 vdc 6=.5 vdc,, 7= 9.6 vdc 8= 4.1vac. ALSO test across 1and 2= fluctuates .1 to .3 vac,, across 3and4= 24.9vac,, 5and6= 17.4vdc,, 7and8=14.0vac. IE., TEST across is black lead on one terminal red on the other.I think I found it in one from Guyfand, its the last PDF. Page heading is "Quad Circuit"
The 1st #7 should have been vac not vdc.Okay, I would think this test would be running. So, Negative lead to generator ground , hot lead to test 1&2= 2.9vac,, 3=0 vac 4=25.0 vac,, 5=0 vdc 6=.5 vdc,, 7= 9.6 vdc 8= 4.1vac. ALSO test across 1and 2= fluctuates .1 to .3 vac,, across 3and4= 24.9vac,, 5and6= 17.4vdc,, 7and8=14.0vac. IE., TEST across is black lead on one terminal red on the other.
I also test OHMS on 7 & 8 wires from quad A1. wires disconnected , ohms between wires is 1.5 ohms. I did test ohms on terminals 7 & 8 with wires disconnected 379 ohms.The 1st #7 should have been vac not vdc.
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For future reference you can go to the top of the forum page.I looked thru the TM list and could not find 24TM. Is it listed another way?
You will see a bar with "Rules" "TM" and "Vendor Spotlight" listed towards the right.
Click on "TM" then click "Generator and Electrical TM's"
Then find the MEP-802A section ( currently the 3 one down on the 1st page )
This is where all the TM's for your machine are located.
When someone refers to say the "-24P" that is the manual ending in "-24P" which happens to be the parts guide.
"the -34TM" is the TM for whatever machine is being discussed, ending in -34
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