OD Iron's Remote Oil Filter...A How To

[jatonka]

This is a reply to Bottleworks post #20, For a fact, the Napa 1458 filters used on my adaptors cost between $13-$17 each depending on what price list you fall under, fleet account, etc. My kit uses 2 filters, the total cost of filters per oil change is $26 to $34 NOT $120 as you stated. If you by Baldwin, the cost is higher. If you buy Wix (who makes Napa filters) the cost is lower.
If you installed all of my spin-on adaptor kits, oil, primary fuel, and secondary/final fuel, the cost of all 5 filters would be about $65 total using Napa prices.
Hope this clears up the pricing on my filter replacements, JT out

 

[Biggles]

ok so what is the difference between JA Tonka's and OD Iron's remote oil filter replacement kit?

 

[dabtl]

Looking at the two systems, I have by way of disclosure the jatonka system on mine, it would appear that the jatonka system is lower in cost for the kit, both quicker to install and cheaper to operate.

If there is a heater present under the hood the install time for the ODIron system would appear to be significantly longer still. Those who have actually done the install can speak to that.

The extended drain filter is a five micron versus sixteen micron for the Wix 11458, providing finer filtration as an upside.

I found the jatonka system able to be installed in a matter of minutes, nearly as fast as changing the spin on filter itself.

Either system will provide a significant improvement over the stock system in my opinion. Get one or the other for sure.

 

[grounded]

Not sure on JAtonka filtering levels. but the ODiron kit goes down to 5 micron. looks as also you can set it up so you dont have your filters upside down like the tonkas are so less mess when you change filters when you change oil on a hot engine. Im not trying to get in this pissing match but my im going with the Odiron setup on mine

 

[dabtl]

I do not think either system is a bad choice considering the alternative is the stock system.

Let us know how you come out on the install.

 

[Biggles]

so either will work with the heater under the hood? as big as this truck is there isn't as much space under the hood as one would think. I am definitely going to get one of them.

 

[JDToumanian]

If you go with jatonka's filters, you spend $120 on filters each change.

Nope... Total cost was $36 here at my local Napa in Southern California.

 

[OPCOM]

I have the system from Ethan/Builder77. Each filter is rated 26GPM and is 5 microns. It think it's great and the filters are not anti-drain types so there is not much mess when changing them. I also use a preluber so there is pressure at the time of starting. I do not know if anyone will still produce this kit or not.

 

[bottleworks]

This is a reply to Bottleworks post #20, For a fact, the Napa 1458 filters used on my adaptors cost between $13-$17 each depending on what price list you fall under, fleet account, etc. My kit uses 2 filters, the total cost of filters per oil change is $26 to $34 NOT $120 as you stated.

Your right. Completely my fault. I thought your system had XD filters available. I see it doesn't (No Wix 51458XD filter exists). So your system is designed for filters that are virtually the same filtering quality as stock. Not much point in that. BTW, Napa online lists the 1458 filter @ $21.99. So it's $43.98 plus tax for two paper filters with your system.



The OD Iron system is intended to be used with an XD filter which is a glass media with a built in by-pass filter. However, you can cheap out and get a paper filter like yours uses. If one were to cheap out and buy a paper filter for the ODI kit, it's $27.99 (per Napa online).

Point being, you save $15.99 each oil change with the ODI system, however, you can't even upgrade the filters on yours. On the ODI system, you can run an XD filter which can lasts for a long time and will keep your oil far cleaner. And with the XD filter you have two filters in one. There is no need for adding an external by-pass filter because the XD filter has it built in.

So, it looks like the ODI filter system is the heavy duty system and the jatonka is the light duty system.

 

[Beerslayer]

I have the system from Ethan/Builder77. Each filter is rated 26GPM and is 5 microns. It think it's great and the filters are not anti-drain types so there is not much mess when changing them. I also use a preluber so there is pressure at the time of starting. I do not know if anyone will still produce this kit or not.

What do you use for a pre-luber? That sounds like a great idea.

Does anyone have a photo of where they installed the OD Iron filter in conjunction with a heater? I have the ether cold weather starting kit and was thinking of removing that to make room for the filter.

 

[Speedwoble]

I would be hard pressed to call JT's a light duty system. It is simpler and has fewer failure points compared to ODI or even my system. I also know, having just sourced materials, that there are better materials out there for a remote mount system, for example push lok hose instead of the low pressure hose and fittings on ODI. Taper connections instead of pipe thread. I bought the best materials, saved money, and increased flow comparec to buying a pre-made single hose system.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the work that went into the ODI system. However, the fact remains that it is not operating within the parameters of a well designed fluid pressure system. I would be curious to know the details of the pressure differential testing.

 

[jatonka]

Mr Bottle works, thank you for your apology on your incorrect cost of the filters for my adaptors, it is appreciated. May I also explain the filtering used in "my" system? It is 16 micron using Napa/Wix filters and 12 micron using Baldwin filters, the cartridge elements are 25 micron. Hercules specified "my" 16 micron filter on the adaptors they used on Oliver tractors using the multifuel block. Speedwoble, who I have never met or spoken with at all, raises a great point, "my" system has reduced the possible leak points. It is field proven and accepted by single truck owners new to the hobby and farmers, contractors and fire departments across the USA as dependable, serviceable and affordable.
We all have our preferences in things in life, it is human nature. Don't demean my product until you have factual reason to. I invite anyone to post to this site that they are not satisfied with my product or my service to them. John Tennis

 

[JDToumanian]

Personally, I don't like the fact that some spin-on oil filters have bypass valves in them.... Why would you want oil to be able to go around the filter? How do you know when the filter is bypassing and when it isn't? What if this bypass valve fails? I like the Napa 1458 filters that JATONKA's adapters and my White tractor filter housing uses... they are full flow, 100% of the time. No bypass, only an anti-drain back valve.

And speaking of bypass, to really "polish" the oil, that's what I use... a bypass filter.

There's no right or wrong here, we're all working toward the same goal - longevity of our engines. I'm thankful that there's enough ingenuity and products available now that we are able to debate which we think is best! Remember what we were discussing just a few years ago?

Jon

 

[rivired]

I havnt Decided what route i want to go with getting rid of the troublesome oldschool filters..

But i dont know about all you but for poor people like me..i cant spend 200$ on some adapters to make the swap..and then(and correct me if im wrong but...) BELOW>.

OD Iron Remote Oil Filter Kit With FREE Cut Down Service
[kitmfo002] $391.49

Are u kidding? 400$ for a remote filter head and lil fittings,2 bolts with holes drilled in them...and some wacked off filter housings????

With Rims,oil and fuel filter toys and Hard Top replacements..this is getting to be a very pricey hobby. Sure does ruin the fun.

 

[cranetruck]

Might as well chime in since I tested OD Iron's system a couple of years ago.

The multifuel engine on my 8x8 has a higher capacity oil pump, which speeds up the time to oil pressure, less than 10 seconds after being shut down for a week, less if started within a day (engine still warm).
Since I never had any problem with the original oil filter canisters, I ended up adding a bypass filter, from OD Iron, BTW, for "polishing" to use Jon's word.

A bypass filter will filter 100% of the oil, so there is no need to use a low micron filter for the full flow path, which would only mean that they would have to be changed more often....

If you don't like the original set-up, which was designed to drain so that the oil can be preheated in extreme cold weather, go for John's adapters, probably the best available.

 

[dabtl]

Over the years rumors of pre-heating oil and such have reached this place. If you live in a climate that gets that cold, you need to consider how to heat the oil and moving somewhere else, just thinking.

And, finally, it is much cheaper in the long run to work on clean oil and clean fuel problems than to replace a multi-fuel engine because of those issues.

 

[Biggles]

ok so the O.D. Iron would allow the use of a 5 micron bypass filter? and it's remote? where as the JA Tonka kit is adapters for spin ons where the factory canisters are? am I right?

 

[cranetruck]

Yes, that's correct.

 

[JDToumanian]

Yes, the JATONKA adapters use spin-on filters where the canisters would be. Either system can be used with a bypass filter (including the stock canisters if you wish), as the bypass filter would be plumbed into the system after the oil filters and be a totally independent circuit.

This thread will give you an idea of how a bypass filter can be installed...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...spinner-ii-centrifugal-oil-bypass-filter.html

Jon

 

[Biggles]

hmmmm I'd like to have remote oil filters but with the heater and the crowed conditions JATONKA's may be the way to go.

Thanks for the help folks!