JasonS
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If you are converting to a better full flow system, why not use one of the combined full flow/ bypass filters?
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On Bypass oil filters - to get the small particles
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Here are the measurements of the oil drain plugs on the pan. It appears to be a 7/8 dia with 20 threads/inch. It takes a 1-1/8 wrench.
It comes from a parts engine, that's why the rust.
It comes from a parts engine, that's why the rust.
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Thanks Bjorn! That should help out. Here's a pic of the kind of general attachment I wanted to do, either with the original drain plug as the "adapter" or otherwise. It's the setup on the right. Comes with 1/2" ID hose etc. The only thing is the company's pumps are 1.8GPM. enough to fill the oil system I think, but not pressurize it too much. Having it filled is half the battle though.
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devilman96
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Patrick I strongly recommend against installing a oil line at the bottom of your pan, I know a lot of us don't go off roading but most do appreciate the ability in a "need to" situation. Adding a extra 2 inches of length to the drain and a hose to snag is not a good idea... (IMHO of course)
The 1.8 GPM pumps your referring to... They are 12V ATV chemical sprayer pumps found on 15-20 gallon tank sprayers and can be found at tractor supply, northern tool etc for about $75 a pop... I go through about 30 of these a year at work and would not recommend using them in a oil system as they are cheap and disposable. most of these are also not checked and the ones which are checked use a very light diaphragm type type check valve in them so over about 60 PSI they are going to create a bypass route for the oil... Not something I want flowing though a plastic pump body. I do use these for oil transfer on filtering waste oil for fuel oil, they work well but are very slow with the thicker viscosity and more like .75 GPM great for filtering off at low PSI but not something I would want hooked to my truck as a primary means of prelube... If you want I have a pile of these laying in the shop, I will send ya one to look at if you wish.
As for the 40 GPM... When you look at the MOD design used on the UK truck and most other commercial diesel oil injection systems this is about the range being used. Could it be smaller?... proably... The idea is high volume @ low PSI = no wait time on start up. Your very limited when it comes to 24V pumping systems with out going into some type of custom production runs which would be really pointless when it comes to keeping cost down at the expense of being able to say "they were built to take longer to pressurize the system". That pump with a 24V 5 second timer, solenoid and relay to break the start circuit would be a quick and easy install on wiring.. No oops "I left it running" or "oops I forgot to use it"... Its there and functions in the background seamlessly and would require no modification to the stock wiring system as everything would be plug and play with the right terminals being used.
Cost is the biggest factor to this... I have to look at everything from that perspective... Where as 100 people will say oh yes that is a must have for my truck, preoilers are the only way to go, make it bullet proof, it should be as heavy duty as the truck, please build it, I want one NOW!!!! The simple truth to the matter is >5% of those 100 will buy what ever the item is. Like most of the mod's we discuss on the forum they are REALLY great ideas and If I bought into 100 of these I could easily have them ready to ship in under a week tops... But if I did that I would be out of capitol and out of business after one go around just trying to sell them at cost. Im working on them.. they will come and they will be flawless when they do..
The 1.8 GPM pumps your referring to... They are 12V ATV chemical sprayer pumps found on 15-20 gallon tank sprayers and can be found at tractor supply, northern tool etc for about $75 a pop... I go through about 30 of these a year at work and would not recommend using them in a oil system as they are cheap and disposable. most of these are also not checked and the ones which are checked use a very light diaphragm type type check valve in them so over about 60 PSI they are going to create a bypass route for the oil... Not something I want flowing though a plastic pump body. I do use these for oil transfer on filtering waste oil for fuel oil, they work well but are very slow with the thicker viscosity and more like .75 GPM great for filtering off at low PSI but not something I would want hooked to my truck as a primary means of prelube... If you want I have a pile of these laying in the shop, I will send ya one to look at if you wish.
As for the 40 GPM... When you look at the MOD design used on the UK truck and most other commercial diesel oil injection systems this is about the range being used. Could it be smaller?... proably... The idea is high volume @ low PSI = no wait time on start up. Your very limited when it comes to 24V pumping systems with out going into some type of custom production runs which would be really pointless when it comes to keeping cost down at the expense of being able to say "they were built to take longer to pressurize the system". That pump with a 24V 5 second timer, solenoid and relay to break the start circuit would be a quick and easy install on wiring.. No oops "I left it running" or "oops I forgot to use it"... Its there and functions in the background seamlessly and would require no modification to the stock wiring system as everything would be plug and play with the right terminals being used.
Cost is the biggest factor to this... I have to look at everything from that perspective... Where as 100 people will say oh yes that is a must have for my truck, preoilers are the only way to go, make it bullet proof, it should be as heavy duty as the truck, please build it, I want one NOW!!!! The simple truth to the matter is >5% of those 100 will buy what ever the item is. Like most of the mod's we discuss on the forum they are REALLY great ideas and If I bought into 100 of these I could easily have them ready to ship in under a week tops... But if I did that I would be out of capitol and out of business after one go around just trying to sell them at cost. Im working on them.. they will come and they will be flawless when they do..
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I've found some better pumps than in the site with that oil pan picture (theirs is crappy), including some turbo scavenging gear-type ones. None of the good pumps are cheap and many have rather low temperature ratings. 24V/12V is not an issue for me, I have both in quantity, so maybe I have some more choices than others. For me, I am not physicaly up to pulling the oil pan because of the working positions and would have to pay the diesel shop. (the generator installation took me almost 2 months. You might have done it from scratch in 3 days)
I do make up my own mods, mostly electrical such as they are they may not be so impressive or pretty, but I don't have plans to sell anything, I already have a all day job and no time for production of items. My goal in these discussions is not to pull anyone one way or another with regard to any mods, but I am carefully considering what I am willing to do to install one. I have spent many hours contemplating the oil filter mods we have all seen as well as various means of keeping the oil cleaner. About the drain plug mod, I'll go have a look at the clearance again. It could also be possible to use a copper line from the fitting, if the pieces exist. Only the banjo bolt has to be moved to drain the pan.
Electronic automation of auxiliary systems is a nicety, but I don't need that much technology, that is, I don't like alot of complicated black boxes even though they can be a necessary evil for some applications. I like throwing switches, can't go wrong there.. And if I do want automation, I usually build straight electric brains from relays and diode logic.
Yes it is the folks that demand it now that often delay when the price is announced. The only big ticket items of common truck parts I have ever bought were air $teering and lockout$. I am waiting patiently for your announcement so that I can give it the contemplation it deserves, but I am in no rush for anything. "Please build it" - well there it is, alot of people say that, but don't want to lay the cash down when it shows up. In the last couple months I have learned much about what oily component parts cost. Years ago, I used to have people clamor for me to build up tube amplifiers for them. I modded up a batch of 50-watt monobloc units that you could not tell the sound quality from a macintosh by any listening test.. Yet the same people who would rave and rant about the sound also balked at $300/pair. it's nuts.
I do make up my own mods, mostly electrical such as they are they may not be so impressive or pretty, but I don't have plans to sell anything, I already have a all day job and no time for production of items. My goal in these discussions is not to pull anyone one way or another with regard to any mods, but I am carefully considering what I am willing to do to install one. I have spent many hours contemplating the oil filter mods we have all seen as well as various means of keeping the oil cleaner. About the drain plug mod, I'll go have a look at the clearance again. It could also be possible to use a copper line from the fitting, if the pieces exist. Only the banjo bolt has to be moved to drain the pan.
Electronic automation of auxiliary systems is a nicety, but I don't need that much technology, that is, I don't like alot of complicated black boxes even though they can be a necessary evil for some applications. I like throwing switches, can't go wrong there.. And if I do want automation, I usually build straight electric brains from relays and diode logic.
Yes it is the folks that demand it now that often delay when the price is announced. The only big ticket items of common truck parts I have ever bought were air $teering and lockout$. I am waiting patiently for your announcement so that I can give it the contemplation it deserves, but I am in no rush for anything. "Please build it" - well there it is, alot of people say that, but don't want to lay the cash down when it shows up. In the last couple months I have learned much about what oily component parts cost. Years ago, I used to have people clamor for me to build up tube amplifiers for them. I modded up a batch of 50-watt monobloc units that you could not tell the sound quality from a macintosh by any listening test.. Yet the same people who would rave and rant about the sound also balked at $300/pair. it's nuts.
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IMHO, I think it would be pretty safe to run a hose from a banjo bolt straight back, it's fairly high up and on the 5-ton (LDS) engines, the oil pan is installed with the deep part behind the front axle.devilman96 said:
Adding a port a little higher up on the side of the pan could turn into a project in itself.
It would be good to have the arctic kit oil pan "shroud" to play with to make sure it can still be fitted when all is said and done. Heating the oil should also be considered.
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I think I like a separate small-micron bypass filter better and a separate main filter. Is this a question about the filter having a bypass in it for when it gets clogged up? So I am confused about the question.JasonS said:
JasonS
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The 51970XE filter is a combined full flow/ bypass filter with a nominal 5 micron rating. Convert to a spin on filter with this and you don't have to mess with an extra bypass filter.
devilman96
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Ditto... this is why I keep saying spin on bases should be 1.5 inch threads
SasquatchSanta
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D-Man Sez:
Is anyone planning to offer this?
Is this doable?
Is anyone planning to offer this?
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There is a precedent to having a drain directly into the oil pan, some LDS465-1 engines equipped with an IP with a separate drain.
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devilman96
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Yep its very doable... Just has to be made that way. Like I've said... When I can get around to them they will be made like that.
bottleworks
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If you go the remote filter route, you could use the same filter bases that I used. They are 1.5"-12. The Wix 51970XD/51970EX Filters fit. I am using dual 51970XD filters.SasquatchSanta said:
bambambam22
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4 Star General,
I am putting on the Spin on oil filters that come from Napa filters and Eastern Surplus adapters. I am assuming this would be a complementary system to go with it.
I have to have this system on my truck. First can you tell me app how much it will cost if I do all the work myself and where I can purchase all the items I will need and last can you send me a set of the photos from above? I tried to print them so I could have them to work from but it will not let me but if you emailed them to me I could print them and work from them.
bambam@suddenlinkmail.com
I am putting on the Spin on oil filters that come from Napa filters and Eastern Surplus adapters. I am assuming this would be a complementary system to go with it.
I have to have this system on my truck. First can you tell me app how much it will cost if I do all the work myself and where I can purchase all the items I will need and last can you send me a set of the photos from above? I tried to print them so I could have them to work from but it will not let me but if you emailed them to me I could print them and work from them.
bambam@suddenlinkmail.com