Picked up a $500 m1009 Sh*tbox. No key? Hotwire?

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doghead

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I'd suspect a bad starter.
 

CrustyM1010

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I noticed when I turned the key forward the dash lights never came on. Couldn’t turn the headlights on. Voltage gauge never had a reading. But I could turn the heater fan on though. So there’s power. I kept moving the shifter on the column back and forth and playing with the glow plug toggle switch. Hoping that maybe the was a ground somewhere. And sure enough my entire dash lit up. But it was brief and cut back off. It’s so weird. Definitely loose wiring or a bad ground somewhere. So bummed. Chasing electrical gremlins is never fun.
 

cucvrus

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All those bolt on battery cable ends are scrap. they are temporary only. You need to get a good connection at the battery and in the cable ends. Get some made up at a competent electrical shop. I have them made up all the time. hey cost me about $75. for a new set and the troubles are gone. That picture of the negative battery cable melted and arced is from a poor connection. Bad starter or not that should not arc the connections at the batteries. Same goes for the 2 prong voltage regulator connection at the alternators. The plugs are available at a parts store.

Replace the plugs get the starter and alternators checked out and you have 1/2 the problems solved. That previous owner didn't park it for the sake of parking it. It just wouldn't go no more and he didn't want t spend any more money on it. I have seen many that are like this. Fixed many also. A CUCV can be a very reliable vehicle if properly maintain and gone over thoroughly. And it can also break the bank if it is molested, hacked up and neglected. Like I said I seem to get a lot of hacked up ones to fix for customers. Do it right the first time. be through and drive on. maybe not in the same level of comfort as a modern vehicle but just as reliable. Good Luck. Be Safe and get rid of them bolt on cable ends. They are a corrosion, poor connection point at best. Good Day.
 
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Terracoma

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Rick's giving out sage advice... You can't skimp on the electrical with these old trucks.

I like to recommend these battery terminals, as they're mil-spec, don't need to be removed from the battery post when disconnecting the cables, and all of your cables can standardize on 3/8" eyelets... You can find those same terminals on other websites, that just happens to be a vendor I prefer.

Most battery dealers or your local welding supply shop ought to be able to build you some 2-gauge (or bigger) cables in whatever lengths you require, and properly terminate the cable connections for you... Otherwise, myself and a few other members have had very good luck with wiring and cables from this company. The cables I purchased from them back in late-2011 for my M1008 are still going strong, and the recent batch for my Suburban are equally stout.




YIKES! Looks like we have the same issues.
Your photos looked oddly familiar, so I couldn't help but share mine.

My war isn't over yet, but I've been winning a few battles... [thumbzup]



IMG_6062.jpg IMG_6064.jpg
 

CrustyM1010

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All those bolt on battery cable ends are scrap. they are temporary only. You need to get a good connection at the battery and in the cable ends. Get some made up at a competent electrical shop. I have them made up all the time. hey cost me about $75. for a new set and the troubles are gone. That picture of the negative battery cable melted and arced is from a poor connection. Bad starter or not that should not arc the connections at the batteries. Same goes for the 2 prong voltage regulator connection at the alternators. The plugs are available at a parts store.

Replace the plugs get the starter and alternators checked out and you have 1/2 the problems solved. That previous owner didn't park it for the sake of parking it. It just wouldn't go no more and he didn't want t spend any more money on it. I have seen many that are like this. Fixed many also. A CUCV can be a very reliable vehicle if properly maintain and gone over thoroughly. And it can also break the bank if it is molested, hacked up and neglected. Like I said I seem to get a lot of hacked up ones to fix for customers. Do it right the first time. be through and drive on. maybe not in the same level of comfort as a modern vehicle but just as reliable. Good Luck. Be Safe and get rid of them bolt on cable ends. They are a corrosion, poor connection point at best. Good Day.
You are absolutely right. I usually don’t skimp out on battery cables, i shouldn’t have tried to cheap it out. I was just trying to fire up the truck without spending any money on new material. I learned my lesson! Here are a few pictures of my M1010 battery cables I made myself. I have a hydraulic crimper and they turned out great. 2/0 gauge MADE IN USA, pure copper cable, ancor marine tinned copper lugs, with ancor marine adhesive shrink wrap. They are beefy but have never left me stranded while on road trips with the ole meat wagon m1010
Tomorrow I’m going to switch the m1010 cables onto the M1009. Check out the alt wiring and try to fire it up one more time. I’ll post the pictures and results tomorrow.
 

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CrustyM1010

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Rick's giving out sage advice... You can't skimp on the electrical with these old trucks.

I like to recommend these battery terminals, as they're mil-spec, don't need to be removed from the battery post when disconnecting the cables, and all of your cables can standardize on 3/8" eyelets... You can find those same terminals on other websites, that just happens to be a vendor I prefer.

Most battery dealers or your local welding supply shop ought to be able to build you some 2-gauge (or bigger) cables in whatever lengths you require, and properly terminate the cable connections for you... Otherwise, myself and a few other members have had very good luck with wiring and cables from this company. The cables I purchased from them back in late-2011 for my M1008 are still going strong, and the recent batch for my Suburban are equally stout.






Your photos looked oddly familiar, so I couldn't help but share mine.

My war isn't over yet, but I've been winning a few battles... [thumbzup]



View attachment 776646 View attachment 776647
you and I think alike!!! I have those exact battery terminals on my M1010. Going to switch them over tomorrow. Just temporarily. See if I can get the M1009 started. And if it fires up, I’ll go ahead and make another set. Posted some pictures in the post above.
 

CrustyM1010

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So today I took my 2/0 cables off my M1010 and installed them on the M1009. I cleaned the 24v bus, grounding bus, glowplug relay, and 12v bus. Wire brushed them back to clean metal and reassembled. Checked the fuse panel and found 4 burnt out fuses. And when I hooked everything up the lights on the dash came on. I turned the headlights on to see if they worked and they did. But immediately burned out a fuse. Not sure what’s going on there. And I think ny starter relay is toast now because it’s not even turning over. One day I’ll get this thing started! Ha


I was a little upset with the blazer so I washed the m1010 to help ease my mind. At least I have one reliable cucv. Always makes me feel good.
 

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Tinstar

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Your getting there.
Tackle one issue at a time.
Sounds like a short somewhere in your headlight harness.
NOS OEM ones are available on eBay if needed.
It’s all frustrating I know, but once you get all the issues worked out, the M1009 will be very reliable.
Buy the best parts you can afford. It does make a difference.

Most CUCVs have had a hard Military life and an even worse surplus civilian life.
The way the fire departments, etc hacked into the wiring and really screwed things up.
Lack of maintenance, misunderstanding of the 12/24 system and cheap parts definitely took a toll.

At least you’re saving it from becoming scrap.
 

Bulldogger

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Perhaps. But the starter sounded strong and it was whipping that engine up. I need to buy another parts cucv and scavenge some parts together. Who has a cucv they wanna sell? Haha
Reach out to hrbergeron on this site. He had one in rough but not that bad shape (i'd say way better than yours) he was trying to move a couple of months ago. Might still have it. He's in NOVA, so not far away from you.

BDGR
 

cucvmule

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We all want economy for repairs. We all want you to succeed with your quest for resurrecting an old warrior. The older more abused bodies take more attention to get near "new" or "young" results. Right Gents? Sometimes there is one that needs extra attention. Your Truck looks to be able to repair with some cash and more time.

I have seen far worse. :deadhorse:

Well I am thinking that you have more work ahead with the wiring. As much welding that has gone on I would be removing first the engine compartment harnesses. Quite easy and either replace completely or repair as needed. But you need to tear it down. Take a half sheet of plywood and lay the harness out, take off the plastic sheathing, wrapping, and inspect.

Check all terminal connections, ground metal eyes, for any resistance across the crimped area. Cracks in the insulation are places for corrosion to start. In other words check for continuity in all wires and connectors, connections. Look into Ohms Law, very interesting. Simple 12 volt battery, check for voltage across each wire.

And the alts, starter, solenoids, fuses, fusible links, several, condensers, just have looked at or break down yourself. Check alternators for the insulator on the power post on back of the case and make sure it is all there. Sometimes it isn't all there and when the wire vibrates or moves and grounds itself, well bad things happen.

Starter has areas to look at also.

And then the interior wires and components. At this point after the meltout I would suspect all before I would try again. You do not want to repeat what has happened again. I am not that good at links and will post wire diagrams in another post.
 

cucvmule

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Forum"-Post Viet Nam to Desert Storm Vehicles

CUCV Sticky's

CUCV Helpful Threads

CUCV Wiring Diagrams Color (Except 1010)

Click on pictures to magnify.

I am still learning every day.[thumbzup]
 
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CrustyM1010

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Been reading over the stickys and helpful threads. So much info. Also managed to print the entire maintenance Manual. So many pages but I prefer paper manuals over PDF files. So the headlight harness popping fuses issue will hopefully go away with the LMC heavy duty harness I just bought. We will see. And the starter was bad from the beginning, I guess i just didn't realize it yet. It finally crapped out. So now I'm at a dilemma. Convert to a 12v starter or try and rebuild the 24v starter/buy a new 24v one. This had been talked about many times already so pleased don't get annoyed with me hah I'm just letting y'all know the crossroads I'm at.
 

CrustyM1010

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I'm such an impulse buyer. I was surfing govplanet and a 94 2500 6.5 turbo diesel went up for auction in PA. About 5 hrs away. It had the turbo and serpentine system intact and a like new exhaust on it. Listed as a non runner, so it's a gamble. And it just so happens, I'm a gambling man. I ended up pulling the trigger and won the bid at $500 for the entire truck! Even had the utility bed on the back. Couldn't believe it. So the point of the story is I'm leaning toward a 12v system now. I found the PDF on this website that details how to properly and safely convert these trucks over. I wonder if the 12v starter from the 6.5 would fit? It was laying right on the seat in the 2500. I'll go ahead and test it out and then figure out if it does fit. Here's some pictures of the truck. And please, feel free to say whatever you think, I want everyone's feedback. Good and bad. What would you do if you were in this situation?
 

snowtrac nome

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this whole thread sounds like what I went through on my daughters 1009, we got it for free but cost us 1500 bucks to barge it from bethel ak to nome . the truck was in reasonably good condition but things like starter bolts were missing and wiring and alternators were all jacked up. it took me a month to fix all the jacked up mess and it drives like new.
 
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