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YIKES! Looks like we have the same issues. I gotta redo the wiring and put a more permanent solution together.
Your photos looked oddly familiar, so I couldn't help but share mine.YIKES! Looks like we have the same issues.
You are absolutely right. I usually don’t skimp out on battery cables, i shouldn’t have tried to cheap it out. I was just trying to fire up the truck without spending any money on new material. I learned my lesson! Here are a few pictures of my M1010 battery cables I made myself. I have a hydraulic crimper and they turned out great. 2/0 gauge MADE IN USA, pure copper cable, ancor marine tinned copper lugs, with ancor marine adhesive shrink wrap. They are beefy but have never left me stranded while on road trips with the ole meat wagon m1010All those bolt on battery cable ends are scrap. they are temporary only. You need to get a good connection at the battery and in the cable ends. Get some made up at a competent electrical shop. I have them made up all the time. hey cost me about $75. for a new set and the troubles are gone. That picture of the negative battery cable melted and arced is from a poor connection. Bad starter or not that should not arc the connections at the batteries. Same goes for the 2 prong voltage regulator connection at the alternators. The plugs are available at a parts store.
Replace the plugs get the starter and alternators checked out and you have 1/2 the problems solved. That previous owner didn't park it for the sake of parking it. It just wouldn't go no more and he didn't want t spend any more money on it. I have seen many that are like this. Fixed many also. A CUCV can be a very reliable vehicle if properly maintain and gone over thoroughly. And it can also break the bank if it is molested, hacked up and neglected. Like I said I seem to get a lot of hacked up ones to fix for customers. Do it right the first time. be through and drive on. maybe not in the same level of comfort as a modern vehicle but just as reliable. Good Luck. Be Safe and get rid of them bolt on cable ends. They are a corrosion, poor connection point at best. Good Day.
you and I think alike!!! I have those exact battery terminals on my M1010. Going to switch them over tomorrow. Just temporarily. See if I can get the M1009 started. And if it fires up, I’ll go ahead and make another set. Posted some pictures in the post above.Rick's giving out sage advice... You can't skimp on the electrical with these old trucks.
I like to recommend these battery terminals, as they're mil-spec, don't need to be removed from the battery post when disconnecting the cables, and all of your cables can standardize on 3/8" eyelets... You can find those same terminals on other websites, that just happens to be a vendor I prefer.
Most battery dealers or your local welding supply shop ought to be able to build you some 2-gauge (or bigger) cables in whatever lengths you require, and properly terminate the cable connections for you... Otherwise, myself and a few other members have had very good luck with wiring and cables from this company. The cables I purchased from them back in late-2011 for my M1008 are still going strong, and the recent batch for my Suburban are equally stout.
Your photos looked oddly familiar, so I couldn't help but share mine.
My war isn't over yet, but I've been winning a few battles...
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Reach out to hrbergeron on this site. He had one in rough but not that bad shape (i'd say way better than yours) he was trying to move a couple of months ago. Might still have it. He's in NOVA, so not far away from you.Perhaps. But the starter sounded strong and it was whipping that engine up. I need to buy another parts cucv and scavenge some parts together. Who has a cucv they wanna sell? Haha
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