Picked up my first MEP-002A today

[bookpile]

Picked up my first MEP-002A today (won't start) No return fuel

This is my first military generator and I know little to nothing about them other than what I've been reading on the Wiki, hopefully I can get it running.

I picked it up from Fort Meade this morning. Pickup went well, GL folks were nice once I finally found them.

I built a timber and chain lift hoist system to pick it out of the back of my truck. That went smoothly without a hitch. The generator doesn't appear to have any fluids in it. I'm charging the batteries now and a box of filters from race mart was awaiting me when I got home.

Are there any tell tale marks to determine if it was rebuilt or not? It only has 93 hours on it, but the paint doesn't look exactly fresh either. Maybe it just sat outside for awhile?

The only major things I noticed were the electrical connector on the right side of the louver was disconnected. The "to trans" fuel line was disconnected at the tank. Any particular reason why that one would be disconnected? Does anyone notice anything good, bad, or ugly from the photos?

Thanks

 

[1800 Diesel]

Bookpile,


Doesn't look too bad. Nothing jumped out at me anyway. I believe the wiring connector is for the high temp sensor. I would say clean it up & reconnect. On the disconnected fuel line , I generally remove all the hoses and flush clean diesel through them. As far as the rest of it, take a good look inside the fuel tank and clean out as needed. Many posts on this site with the how-to info. Clean out all 3 fuel filter housings, the air filter housing & oil filter body as well. Add new 15/40 oil, install oil, fuel & air filters, prime the fuel system, connect the batteries and light 'er up. If you haven't already done so, start reading the start-up procedures in the TM. There's a specific method to starting these and also to set the throttle prior to start-up.

Once you attempt to start it up, you may run into other issues that will require assistance. Send up a flare if you need more info.

Kevin

 

[Isaac-1]

Just one thing to add, don't forget the fuel filter screens on screw off bottoms of the fuel pumps. No guesses why the connections were loose, they don't seem to be related.

Ike

 

[bookpile]

Thanks for the replies. I would have definitely forgot about the fuel pump strainers. This is also my first diesel engine, so I picked up some 15/40 for it this week and will go get some diesel this morning. I'm surprised how good the inside of the tank looks (to me anyway). Appears to be diesel in the bottom, not water, and very little rust.

I also found a solargizer box wired in on it. Too bad the panel is gone because I was planning on installing one anyway.

 

[bookpile]

Sending up the first flare.

I went through everything today, the fuel strainers looked like new. Also the batteries were installed late in 2011 so I'm assuming this thing wasn't sitting that long. I wiped out as much as I could reach in the fuel tank and that also looked like new with no rust. I replaced all the filters and primed it by cracking the small nut open on the last filter.

However, it just wouldn't start. On the first attempt there was some smoke but then there was none after that so that made me think it was a fuel issue. I started looking around on the site and found out about the IP plunger. I went back out and mine moves freely and the solenoid lifts up when you're trying to start it. I couldn't push anything up further when trying to start it.

Cracked open one of the fuel lines coming from the IP and there was no fuel coming out when in the run or start position.

I tried taking off the fuel line going to the IP and I got a high pressure diesel bath, so fuel is getting to the IP. I guess something is amiss in the IP. Is there anything else I can try before removing it and looking at the plunger?

 

[dependable]

Just checking you let pump prime and gave the glow plugs heat for at least 30 seconds. Longer in cold weather. But IP problems are a common in these, so your guess may be right. Lots of posts and info here on that subject.

 

[Jimc]

Fuel going in the pump and none coming out then you might as well just pull it. Plunger prob got stuck and stripped out or broke the drive washer or bowtie as we call it. No big deal to fix really.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have some IP parts, let us know what you find.

 

[bookpile]

Thanks, decided to check the basics again this morning before tearing into the IP.

First video is fuel flowing out of the hose normally connected to the IP. Looks pretty good to me.

http://youtu.be/CS-Ck-AOxMo

Next video is of the solenoid and linkage coming up during start. Look normal?

http://youtu.be/w3enh1SjcDg

Time to go check the return flow.

 

[1800 Diesel]

....This is also my first diesel engine, so I picked up some 15/40 for it this week and will go get some diesel this morning......

You can find info about fuel additives in an earlier post, but keep in mind the "dry" ULS diesel required by the gummit' does not provide good lubrication for the IP & injectors. I always recommend (for first light-off) to include a good additive (Lucas, Stanadyne, Power Service Diesel Kleen all good products) & I also add some algaecide on the first fill-up. In addition I use outboard motor oil for lubricity in all my diesel equipment.

 

[bookpile]

Ok I found an issue, no return fuel to the tank. Then I took the braided return hose off at the IP and nothing, it was bone dry.

Just to verify, in the prime and run position fuel should be returning from the IP? (I shouldn't have to be in start for it to return fuel)

Does no return fuel sound in line with the common broken IP plunger or something else. Will taking off the giant nut in the front allow me to clean something? Sorry I read about 20 pages of broken plunger stuff last night and it is starting to blend together.

Thanks 1800, I put some Power Service Diesel Kleen in and some kind of storage additive I got from NAPA.

 

[Jimc]

No diesel should be trickling back into the tank. Plunger has nothing to do with it. Fuel enters, fills the ip and flows out the return line. It usually takes a minute before you hear it trickling back into the tank and may be hard to hear if the tank is full. It will do all this in the prime run position

 

[bookpile]

She lives! (kind of)

I let it run in the prime run mode for exactly 5 minutes without a single drop of fuel coming out of the return port on the IP. Switched over to Start for the heck of it and fuel started squirting out of the one cylinder port on the IP. Put everything back together and tried starting it.

It started and ran extremely rough. Like one cylinder and smoked me out of the garage. The throttle had no effect on the engine. I let it run like this for a while, after about 5 minutes something changed and it smoothed out and started running great. HZ meter showed nothing though. I turned it off after another five minutes and restarted it. This time I was running at 60 HZ. Maybe the genset didn't come on the first time because the engine started so rough? No voltage on the gauge but I dialed everything in with the Kil-a-watt. Ran a 1500w heat gun off the convenience outlet just fine. Let it run for 30 minutes till I shut her down.

Here comes the problem, I went to restart and nothing, the starter didn't try at all. All I hear are the pumps and click of the solenoid up by the IP. Checked all the wires on the starter and everything looked good. Well I'm off to read threads about starters now instead of IPs. Fine by me, replacing the starter will be a lot easier then the IP. Plus at least I know the genset is good now.

 

[Jimc]

When you first started it it didnt run fast enough to flash the field and get that thing generating power. That would be normal. As fir your starter there is a cutout switch. Its under a little cover just above the oil filter. Could be stuck

 

[Munchies]

Verify battery voltage when turned to start at the starter. Quickest way to start off. Odds are it will be something with the starter.

 

[bookpile]

Good to know about not generating being normal. I'll have to get out there and check out the switch.

I think the batteries are good, I checked them with the volt meter when it was running and it showed 26.5 volts. Also when I hang my charger on them its showing that they're both almost full.

 

[Isaac-1]

When reviving generators I often find odd control behaviour like this to be associated with bad ground points.

Ike

 

[Munchies]

I think the batteries are good, I checked them with the volt meter when it was running and it showed 26.5 volts. Also when I hang my charger on them its showing that they're both almost full.

I am sure they are, what I was saying is check the starter solenoid terminal for voltage as the main switch is put into start. If it is, then its the starter or solenoid.. If not, bad switch, bad k1 relay, or bad ground .

 

[bookpile]

Well this is frustrating. I ran some errands and went out to try what Munchies said. Low and behold the starter kicked right off. However, for the life of me I couldn't get it started again. I tried the startup procedure about half a dozen times with no luck. Didn't seem like there was much smoke coming out of the exhaust again. I thought running at full speed for half an hour would have cleared up any fuel system issues.

There does seem to be quite a bit of smoke coming from the head during preheat though. I lifted the "close to run" cover but I couldn't really tell where it was coming from. Is this anything to be concerned about? So I guess the starter doesn't work when it's hot, and it still seems fuel starved.


Munchies: Thanks for that tip, makes a lot more sense.

Rough first few minutes this morning:
http://youtu.be/7b6OtZBZggo

When it was running well:

http://youtu.be/pGacQ_sg1tY

 

[Jimc]

No you shouldnt see any smoke from preheating. When you do it next time just do yourself a favor and feel the wires to make sure they are not hot.