• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Picking up an LMTV tomorrow... pretrip prep?

Ukraine Train

New member
111
1
0
Location
Cleveland OH
I'm driving about 120mi to get a 17k mile '94 LMTV tomorrow and then driving it home. It's supposedly in great condition with all new fluids and filters. What should I check before shoving off? I plan to have the manual on my laptop and a list of truck towing companies along the way. I just saw the post about caging the brakes in case I lose pressure, which is good to know.
Is 55mph ok for the whole drive or is that pushing it?
Any special tools that I need? Is it mostly metric or SAE?
Should I bring earplugs?
 

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,576
529
113
Location
Greenback, TN
Congrats! From recent similar experience the following are suggested:

- IR thermometer to check for hot bearings anywhere, or dragging brakes.
- Gladhand type air hose to pump up tires if air is lost.
- tire gauge.
- Ask seller to show you how to turn on the lights (and brake lights and signaling, etc).
- Gladhand cover with no vent (in case of air leak starting on the trip as happened to me).

Tools are mixed SAE and Metric, heavy on metric.

55 mph seemed a little fast for mine but it would do more. Sweet spot about 50 mph. YMMV.

Any plan for tire issues? (I expected to just call a service truck.)

Have fun!

Bob
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,845
661
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I am fine at 55 in mine. No earplugs needed. Front gladhands need to breathe or your brakes may not want to release. There is a vent on each cover for that reason. Check fluids and lights.
 

Ukraine Train

New member
111
1
0
Location
Cleveland OH
I'm a little confused on the gladhands. According to the manual, there should already be "dummy couplings" on these. Are these what you mean by covers? Or are covers something different? Do the tires have regular schrader valves like passenger cars? I've never seen one of these truck up close so pardon my ignorance.

Is there some sort of roadside assistance for big trucks I can call and they locate the nearest service company? How do cross-country truckers manage this?
 

MaiNiaK

Member
196
4
18
Location
Maine
There are seals on those glad hands that can become dry rotten over time. The seals are replaceable and can be purchased at most truck stops or auto parts stores.

They do have regular air valves inline with the CTIS fittings on each tire.

I would also pick up a few T bolts (cage bolts). If you have a break stuck the T bolt is used to cage the break (holds the break open for transit). The T'd end of the bolt is put into the air break chamber in question, given a quarter turn to lock into the inner spring. Then the nut with washer is tightened to compress the spring, releasing the break. You may also have to backup to release the break shoe inside the drum. The rear axels have 2 break chambers on each side.

Also as mentioned above, familiarize yourself with the military style light switch. If you don't have the switch on, you'll be running down the road with no break, blinker or running lights at all.

Good luck and Congrats..!!
 
Last edited:

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
I'm a little confused on the gladhands. According to the manual, there should already be "dummy couplings" on these. Are these what you mean by covers? Or are covers something different? Do the tires have regular schrader valves like passenger cars? I've never seen one of these truck up close so pardon my ignorance.

Is there some sort of roadside assistance for big trucks I can call and they locate the nearest service company? How do cross-country truckers manage this?
The dummy couplings have vents on them. If the Emergency glad-hand leaks they won't be any good. Someone suggested to jamb a credit card between dummy plug and glad-hand.
 

Ukraine Train

New member
111
1
0
Location
Cleveland OH
Well I made it home! The truck is clean and seems to have been really taken care of. The only issue I noticed is when the engine fan kicked on around 200°, it wouldn't shut off. It stayed on for an hour even though the temp was down to 160. When I got close to home it seemed to start working properly where it would just run for a couple minutes. Could the temp switch just be sticky from lack of use?

It didn't come with keys for the door locks. Is there a source for new cylinders with keys? I need to be able to lock this up when it's at my shop. It looks like they might've just used handles from a Chevy pickup or something.
11032599_767906188219_6424787362184058157_n.jpg
 

Ukraine Train

New member
111
1
0
Location
Cleveland OH
Pull the locks take one to a locksmith he can make a key for it .
Good call, I will try that.

I kept it at 50-52mph, or so, and it seemed happy. Man, it made that drive seem looong, though. My excuse for getting this is to run deliveries for my machine shop, and after I get some removable signage on it, it'll be a good marketing tool. Or so I tell myself :) It'll see some recreational use too... taking the kids around, parades maybe, zombie apocalypse vehicle, who knows?
 

jwmaleta

New member
11
0
1
Location
Virginia
55 is pushing it on a hot day. Keep it at 50 if you can so you don't over tax the Trans cooling fan. I drove mine 250 miles home from Bragg.
 

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,576
529
113
Location
Greenback, TN
My truck had a stuck fan clutch when first driven (not your problem), but.... The clutch worked loose after about 100 miles but then the 200 (210?) deg switch would not turn the fan on. Another few hundred miles and the temp sensor and control valve started working. Now at about 900 miles driven the fan seems to work perfectly and I didn't have to touch a wrench. That is a long way to say your truck could easily fix itself with further usage.

Great looking truck.
 

jgallanar

New member
9
0
0
Location
Seattle/Washington
So, how is it owning an LMTV? Are you running into many mechanical issues or problems? I'm looking at one for similar purposes as you. Some work stuff, mostly promotional, road trips (but not long ones) and for fun. Gas milage? About 8mpg, correct? How about re-gearing for better hwy speed and fuel economy?

Am I crazy for considering one of these? :)

Thanks
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
So, how is it owning an LMTV? Are you running into many mechanical issues or problems? I'm looking at one for similar purposes as you. Some work stuff, mostly promotional, road trips (but not long ones) and for fun. Gas milage? About 8mpg, correct? How about re-gearing for better hwy speed and fuel economy?

Am I crazy for considering one of these? :)

Thanks
Put a large budget for the vehicle aside. many people think they can buy these things cheap and drive away. They are at Govplanet for a reason. I would strongly suggest having the vehicle transported.
A good truck will cost you about 20grand. With all maintenance done and everything working as it should.
You can pick one up for less and then work your way up. A thing to consider is , the military mostly used 15-40 in the transmission. Allison recommends using the appropriate fluid. for longevity and less harsh shifts.
A transmission fluid change will run about $1000 for the first flush and refill
 

jgallanar

New member
9
0
0
Location
Seattle/Washington
Whoa! Yeah I figured it would be costly. Just didn't know how much. Govplanet takes 10% commission on top of an average cost of $11,000 for the truck. So, $20k sounds about right, if not more... So, is that $1000 for each oil change every 5,000 miles? Or just for that first one?
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
Whoa! Yeah I figured it would be costly. Just didn't know how much. Govplanet takes 10% commission on top of an average cost of $11,000 for the truck. So, $20k sounds about right, if not more... So, is that $1000 for each oil change every 5,000 miles? Or just for that first one?
It's for draining the transmission of the 15-40 engine oil they use in the transmission and put the proper transmission fluid in. its 42qt to fill.
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,871
493
83
Location
Gray Court SC
Just the first and really should not cost that much.
A Allison transmission guy told me to just take the return line from oil cooler off and put in bucket and pump and let truck run until fluid comes out looking like what you are putting in adding as needed.
 

Suprman

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
6,845
661
113
Location
Stratford/Connecticut
I love my truck and drive it all the time. It does have its quirks. I was at Starbucks yesterday with my kids and the starter went. I had to jump the start solenoid with a clip lead and pound on the starter solenoid with a big extension and hammer till it started. The starter is in pretty tight you really cant hammer on it directly. I keep extra stuff in my truck like fluids, extra u-joint, wheel valve hoses and alot of hose clamps and quick repair stuff.
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
18
0
Location
Florida
Just the first and really should not cost that much.
A Allison transmission guy told me to just take the return line from oil cooler off and put in bucket and pump and let truck run until fluid comes out looking like what you are putting in adding as needed.
You're supposed to flush it though. 5 gallon of it cost ~$250, so you need two buckets each flush
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks