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Possibly gov-loc issues

chief1983

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Ok, I've attached some pics of what I saw when I took the diff cover off today. Didn't think I had any differential problems, was just going to remove the axle shaft to replace the seals and bearings. Then I saw what appears to be some seriously deep scoring in the differential. This isn't normal, right? The differential oil definitely smells awful, but I don't see any actual pieces of differential floating around in it. I've had no strange sounds, or any other signs that there's anything wrong with the differential, aside from the right seal leak that I'm trying to fix. This look like a serious problem to anyone, or am I probably ok until I find a new 12 bolt 3.08 rear end?


Gov-loc1
Gov-loc2
Gov-loc3
 

doghead

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I don't see anything to be concerned about.

What are you seeing that worried you?
 

chief1983

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The jaggedness around the inside housing. It looks like something has been eating away at it, and in droves. But I can't tell what, or that there's any sign of it in the gear oil.

Attached a cropped pic.

Gov-loc_focus.jpg
 

doghead

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I agree. 2cents
 

wikallen

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yep, normal machining marks.

Be different, pull it out, smooth them out, then polish your diff to a mirror finish. :lol:
 

chief1983

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Man, I just expected it to look a little more like, well, any other part in the car :p

That said, I cannot figure out how I'm supposed to pop out this C Clip so I can slide the axle out. I see the clip I think, and I got the lock screw and the sliding pin loose (sliding pin still partway in of course), but I can't see if I'm supposed to slide it out enough that the casing rotates freely, or what.
 

doghead

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Are you following the TM proceedure?

TM 9-2320-289-34​
6-14. REAR AXLE SHAFT, OUTER SEAL, BEARING, AND BACKING PLATE​
REPLACEMENT (M1009).
 
Last edited:

chief1983

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Yeah that's what I've been doing, but its explanations at this point for someone who has never done this before are a little vague for me.
 
Last edited:

wdbtchr

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Pull the pin until it clears the end of the axle(I usually just pull it all the way out), then push the axle in(toward the differential) and the clilp will clear.[thumbzup]
 

jrou111

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All the way out you say? That was the big no no in the -34. Any idea why?
If you pull the pin all the way out the top spider gear will rotate inside the housing with the side spider gears instead of turning on the axis of the pin. It makes it difficult to get lined back up.

I busted my spider gears in my gov-lock, and recently replaced the carrier with an open carrier until I can upgrade to a 14 bolt. I wished my gov-lock looked as good as the one in the pics!
 

scrapman

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GovLoc 80's are notorious for being weak and have a high failure rate when subjected to hard use. The carrier is light on material. Finding a 12 bolt will not be easy, then there is the possibility of having to do a complete overhaul on it when you do find it. 2 years ago I done an 8.5 like you have for about $900 total. That was with a Detroit locker, new ring & pinion, and all bearings & seals.
 

scrapman

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Another option that is less costly is to get an open carrier and install an "lunchbox" locker. At this time I have a Powertrax Lock Right in a S-10 with a 350/350 combo with 3.08 gears and it has'nt failed me yet.
 

transman

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Used as intended by the designers, a "gov lok"can live a long time. The key is to avoid rapid acceleration with only one wheel on firm traction.The "gov" part of thediff needs a rotation or two to do its thing. The first sign of real trouble is when the wheels won't unlock in a turn on pavement If any of the very fine teeth on the back side of the"ring gear " side axle gear are missing the unit is junk. not really intended for serious off roading.
 
I have a complete set of M1009 axles I would let go for $500 if anyone is interested. They are already removed from the vehicle, and are in excellent shape. And yes, I agree the pics of the differential show nothing wrong with the carrier or ring gear, just possibly a loose nut behind the wheel is all...:grin:
 
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