Pulled the transmission today!!!

[usafe7ret]

I know this is an old tread, but what is the hoist attached to when speedmon lowered his transmission? Is it something specifig to the M35 or locally manufactured whenever you need to drop the transmission?


Thanks

 

[Speddmon]

I know this is an old tread, but what is the hoist attached to when speedmon lowered his transmission? Is it something specifig to the M35 or locally manufactured whenever you need to drop the transmission?


Thanks

I just opened the windshield/s and used an old 2x4 (doubled up to make a 4x4) and laid it across to the back wall of the cab. On the transmission, I used a couple of nylon lifting straps choked around the transmission to make it balance good. Nice and simple!

 

[rebel_raider]

Future trick for you. When installing the tranny, put it in reverese. That will move that little shaft coming out of the tower, out of your way.

I know this is an old thread, but I looked it up because I remember a part # for the clutch disc was mentioned. As I was reading, I came across this statement and realized that it was incorrect. I had remembered reading this when I pulled my transmission the other day, so I tried it. I put it in reverse and shaft came OUT another couple of inches. The trick is to put the transmission in FIRST. I'm sure anybody pulling the transmission would have figured that out, but I wanted to put it in writing for future transmission pullers.

Also, I looked on IAT's website, and I did not see that part # listed. I don't know if they don't make it anymore, or if it's simply not listed. I had already sourced a clutch from somewhere else, but I did want to look up the price for comparison.

 

[DUG]

I know this is an old thread, but I looked it up because I remember a part # for the clutch disc was mentioned. As I was reading, I came across this statement and realized that it was incorrect. I had remembered reading this when I pulled my transmission the other day, so I tried it. I put it in reverse and shaft came OUT another couple of inches. The trick is to put the transmission in FIRST. I'm sure anybody pulling the transmission would have figured that out, but I wanted to put it in writing for future transmission pullers.

Also, I looked on IAT's website, and I did not see that part # listed. I don't know if they don't make it anymore, or if it's simply not listed. I had already sourced a clutch from somewhere else, but I did want to look up the price for comparison.

Getting ready to install a new rear main seal and clutch. SO is it easier in REVERSE or FIRST gear?

 

[Speddmon]

Dug,

I never did figure it out because you know how it is on any forum, you get conflicting advice, and who do you believe. I would suggest, after you pull the tunnel covers, put the transmission and both gears and see which one pulls the shaft in.

 

[swbradley1]

Dug,

I never did figure it out because you know how it is on any forum, you get conflicting advice, and who do you believe. I would suggest, after you pull the tunnel covers, put the transmission and both gears and see which one pulls the shaft in.

Thanks Captain Obvious

 

[Jeff Nelson]

Just a quick question I've not been able to answer. Does anyone know why the Deuce clutch has so little friction surface? I noticed the replacement pictured has double the friction pad area but looks like it has the ability to have additional pads. I'm used to clutches that have a full friction area, not just the small pads of the Deuce, so that got me to wondering....

 

[seabeeut]

subscibed

 

[PsycoBob]

I suspect the same disc is used for multiple applications. Rivet a different center section & more/less pads to change the torque capabilities & needed spring pressures. Doing so for a modern clutch might not be as economical but if someone's making clutches for older applications, it may be cheaper to make 50k 'universal' discs. The extra spaces may also be needed for different friction material (more/less grippy).

While adding pads is an option, it'd likely cause issues with insufficient spring pressure to seat them properly.

 

[lawdog1623]

I have got a new clutch assembly, spare, you could just drive up and get it.
I could take you on a M813 recovery while you are here.

this is precisely why i love this forum!!!!!

 

[gunboy1656]

Thanks for this info, I am looking at needing to drop mine this spring will be the first time doing one.

Rear main seal is going bad and figured while I am there might as well do the clutch at the same time.

 

[maxspeed3]

Clutch isn't too bad to do. If you have an engine hoist it makes life a heck of a lot easier. And do it on a hard surface, concrete or asphalt.... I made the mistake of doing mine on grass and its a pain to move the hoist once the transmission is hooked up... I didn't do my main seal because it's not leaking, but I should have just for the piece of mind. (maybe this spring pull the trani off and redo it)... I recommend C&C Equipment's clutch kit, comes with all 4 pieces (pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate). Also since your going this far I highly recommend having the flywheel resurfaced since its already going to be off for the rear main seal. I took mine to my local N.A.P.A, they have an awesome machine shop for resurfacing! It was around 80$ for the resurfacing! Make sure when you put the flywheel back on its on the right way (mark somewhere because the bolts can only go on 1 way. Once its back on start the truck for a couple seconds to make sure its balanced. (it can run with only the flywheel on) You will know if it isn't! (Its pretty easy to tell if the flywheel is on correctly. Stand underneath the truck where the trani would be a eye level and its easy to tell Also you'll want to get a slide hammer and a pilot bearing puller (I found one for rental at Autozone. It was like 50$ for a 90 day rental and you get a full refund upon return of the tools.

Good luck with the swap and the real main seal!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Bump for Chateau Marquis.