• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Pulling blower wheel--MEP002A

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,373
277
83
Location
North Carolina
It's not likely that gunk and rust account for the low output. Look for something else wrong before you put it back together. Could the stator have been rewound and some coils are connected backwards? Are the magnets still strong? Was your AC measurement made with the stator open-circuited, or while connected to the regulator? If the regulator has a shorted diode, it would drag the AC reading down. Is your meter OK? I'm just throwing out ideas, but something is wrong besides dirt and rust.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
It's not likely that gunk and rust account for the low output. Look for something else wrong before you put it back together. Could the stator have been rewound and some coils are connected backwards? Are the magnets still strong? Was your AC measurement made with the stator open-circuited, or while connected to the regulator? If the regulator has a shorted diode, it would drag the AC reading down. Is your meter OK? I'm just throwing out ideas, but something is wrong besides dirt and rust.
I believe I made original measurements with the stator lines still connected, but this has been such a long process, I'm not 100% certain. For today's check I'll test 1st time with the leads disconnected & the 2nd time connected to their terminals. WRT meter accuracy, I used my old analog unit as well as a digital one and both read about the same value of 16 VAC. Magnets were strong & part looked fairly new.

So if the value shows good open-circuit that points to something inside the regulator, so that means R & R regulator? Assuming it's not a repairable unit...just an expensive one to replace...

Thanks Triple Jim
 
Last edited:

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
The gunk and rust will affect the voltage generated. Good job getting that wheel off by the way. If I had to guess, I would say that wheel was probably heated a bit before the last person installed it (A BIG no no for a tapered shaft).
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
The gunk and rust will affect the voltage generated. Good job getting that wheel off by the way. If I had to guess, I would say that wheel was probably heated a bit before the last person installed it (A BIG no no for a tapered shaft).
Thanks Speddmon--Everyone's help on the SS site was invaluable. Next one I have to do will go quicker than this one. I believe the increase in the bolt size to 3/8" made the difference--at least I knew they wouldn't break so I probably pulled harder on the wrench...I'm hopeful I'll get some good numbers this afternoon. Will report back.
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
You would be surprised how hard you can pull on fine thread 5/16" bolts. When I had to pull a wheel off of a parts machine I had, I made my puller from 1/2" bar stock. I cranked on it so hard I bent it. That is why they are fine thread bolts Finer threads allow for more torque for the same size of bolt.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
You would be surprised how hard you can pull on fine thread 5/16" bolts. When I had to pull a wheel off of a parts machine I had, I made my puller from 1/2" bar stock. I cranked on it so hard I bent it. That is why they are fine thread bolts Finer threads allow for more torque for the same size of bolt.
Understood about the fine thread bolts, but this unit had 5/16" x 18 TPI as found. The TM says these should have been 24 TPI, but someone in the past tapped to the NC thread or maybe this one came from the factory that way?? Who knows. The GR8s I was using originally were bending with each pull attempt but the 3/8" bolts did not bend....thanks..got to sign off now...will provide sitrep later this afternoon..
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Nice pics. Always nice to look at pitures as they say 1000 words. And thanks for keeping us updated afer you got the wheel off.
You're quite welcome...I'm just happy to get the thing removed with no injuries and no damage. Just got back in from the shop after reading the stator AC output at 1800. Reading was 40-45 volts. I know TM says 30-35 VAC, so is too much AC at this point a problem? Could not do a check with stator wires connected to the terminals because now I have a broken wire on the yellow-looking cylindrical thing right below the voltage regulator...and for some reason my soldering iron is MIA, but we're still looking for it. Don't know if that item being removed from the circuit will affect the reading but assume it would. Is this a resistor or what? I've been looking for it in the TM but so far cannot ID it...
 

Triple Jim

Well-known member
1,373
277
83
Location
North Carolina
The schematic does show a resistor, R2, connected to the regulator. I assume since this is a shunt regulator, current not needed for battery charging is sent to this resistor. I'll be interested in hearing what AC volt reading you get once the regulator is back to the way it was.

Edit: I just looked at the parts list, and didn't find a resistor in the assembly. I did find a capacitor as Robbied46 said.
 
Last edited:

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
Capacitor...and it is necessary and will affect your voltage readings. They come in various shapes and appearances. It will affect your voltage readings. Once re-soldered, I think you will have a good unit. Congrats on a lot of work well done and your perseverance.
Jerry :popcorn:
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Capacitor...and it is necessary and will affect your voltage readings. They come in various shapes and appearances. It will affect your voltage readings. Once re-soldered, I think you will have a good unit. Congrats on a lot of work well done and your perseverance.
Jerry :popcorn:
Thanks Jerry...I just got done soldering the capacitor connection--a hard feat trying to solder to a "nub" of wire but it finally got a good hold..using my neighbor's small 35 watt it took awhile to get enough heat to do anything....anyway, I'm getting 27.1 volts at the batteries...don't have a way to measure amperage though...The stator AC feed at the terminal with everything hooked up was varying between 26 & 28...I didn't want to run it but a minute or so with the cowling removed...

Thanks to all who contributed their ideas & wisdom...now on to unit # 3--another one not charging properly...hopefully this one will be more routine with the knowledge gained from you good people...
 
Last edited:

edgephoto

Member
133
1
18
Location
Stafford, CT
As long as the voltage across the batteries is more than 24 volts with the unit running, you are charging. No need to worry about current output.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks