rustystud
Well-known member
Your forgetting these are the military "approved" ones ! Just like the "approved" hammers that cost over $400.00 !!!That's not a bad price. The typical $300 is a ripoff.
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Your forgetting these are the military "approved" ones ! Just like the "approved" hammers that cost over $400.00 !!!That's not a bad price. The typical $300 is a ripoff.
NO. that simple.Not to veer off course too much..... and of course I'll call the Pulsetech chappie on Monday. BUT, has anyone any ideas re getting just the "smart box" as I have two panels on the cowl behind the hood of my 916A1 with the wires cut just below. No sign of the unit(s) which do the thinking, near the batteries or anywhere in between.
Also if I get a new (single) unit complete, can I add panels to up the voltage - series 12v + 12v so as not to waste the panels that I have.....?
Thanks
You could get a different solar charge controller and use the existing panels.Not to veer off course too much..... and of course I'll call the Pulsetech chappie on Monday. BUT, has anyone any ideas re getting just the "smart box" as I have two panels on the cowl behind the hood of my 916A1 with the wires cut just below. No sign of the unit(s) which do the thinking, near the batteries or anywhere in between.
Also if I get a new (single) unit complete, can I add panels to up the voltage - series 12v + 12v so as not to waste the panels that I have.....?
Thanks
FYI...you don't have a Pulsetech Solargizer (which looks like this)Finally installed my PulseTech SolarGizer
Hey peashooter. I know this is a old thread. Do you still have the wire and connector in your photo? It's the one that goes into the push to test box. I would like to know which pins are pos and neg. I'm putting together a system, but I don't have that connector.Well perhaps something he had to say was correct but he is definately wrong on the number of wires coming off the solar panel (see my pic), there are only 2. I'd question everything he said at this point. I would certainly think the PDU doesn't have any electronics in it so it probably could be used for the just a fuse block, double check of course but I wouldnt go by the word of the person at Pulsetech you spoke with. Sorry for recommending that, I assumed they would just say "I dont know" rather than guess as appears to be the case. I think the Push To Test unit is the item with the "smarts" for the pulse charging thing.
I'll try to figure that out in the next week. My truck is parked for the winter with a cover on it. Maybe I'll try putting a worklight on the solar panel and take a volt meter to the pins on the wire connector that plug into the "push to test" box. Perhaps someone in a warmer climate can check this out before I get to it?Hey peashooter. I know this is a old thread. Do you still have the wire and connector in your photo? It's the one that goes into the push to test box. I would like to know which pins are pos and neg. I'm putting together a system, but I don't have that connector.
thanks
I managed to get some pictures when I got home today. Unfortunately the pictures arent great since it was a 4 hand job to hold everything for the picture. Anyway when looking at the plug with the middle pin toward the bottom, the pin on the left is Positive, and the middle bottom pin is negative, right side is not used.
When looking at the plug receptacle on the Push to test box you can go by the pictures below (I'm pointing the red positive probe at the positive contact, and the negative black probe at the negative contact.) hope this clears it all up for you.
For what its worth, I put an LED worklight on top of the solar panel to test it (since its dark here) and the voltage at the plug was 20v.
Understand.So I've been looking at my PulseTech for a few weeks and I'm not any closer to a install location. Any one else have another location they like? I have a soft top and would hate to have to drill holes in the hood or cowl behind the hood.
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