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Radiator swap nightmare (well bad dream at the very least)

N

nyvram

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So we finally got around to putting in the new radiator last night

IMG_20151022_203954.jpg

Out with the old in with the new!

IMG_20151022_203904.jpg

While we were into it we decided to go ahead & replace the thermostat. The nightmare begins...

Both bolts were frozen. It appears this must have been leaking at some point in the past and rather than properly repair it, the owner simply tightened the s*** out of the bolts as evidenced by the gasket pretty much being squeezed out of the space.

So propane torch and 'unfreeze' screw juice in hand we went to work. Success! We removed the top bolt after a great deal of elbow grease and coaxing. Next, the bottom bolt.

and then...NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

IMG_20151022_203918.jpg

So began a 3 hour tour of removing the remnants of the frozen bolt.

Attempt 1, vice clamp and acetylene torch

IMG_20151022_204015.jpg

Nothing.

Attempt 2, screw a nut onto the threaded end and WELD THAT SUCKER IN PLACE

IMG_20151022_205355.jpg

Nope, even heated up so hot the aluminum was glowing orange and the weld holding..we succeeded only in shearing off the threaded part welded to the nut.

:evil::evil::evil:

Attempt 3, the time consuming process of drilling out the remnants of the bolt while slowly increasing the bit size until its wide enough to run a full bolt with a nut.

Success! (well more or less..i think the truck will live with a nut/bolt combo on here.) We ruined probably 10 drillbits..those bolts are HEAVY METAL.

So at this point, we realized NAPA sold us the wrong gasket to go with the thermostat. DOH! With all the rigging going on, I didn't want to also use a cereal box for the gasket so we punted on the thermostat install until later today.

Next, to install the radiator. It went in mostly well..except the well known 'swollen' oil line heads would not allow us to thread the 2 lines on the passenger side. A few minutes work with a grinder, file & sandpaper and we had those in.

So to ensure the lines weren't leaking we decided to crank up the truck!


--- there was only one small problem ----


We forgot we had pulled the dang alt belt off so we wouldn't accidentally melt it or cut it in half when heating the aluminum up for our last attempt with the welded nut in place!!


About 2 seconds into our 'dry run' the belt had successfully snapped, wrapped itself thoroughly around the fan wheel and dislocated the drive belt off its pulley.

aua aua aua aua

So, it being midnight at this point, we cut our losses..finished up the radiator and will be on the hunt for a new alt belt and gasket today.

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE CORRECT GASKET PART #?? I am bringing the metal head with me to match it up but it would be nice if we knew ahead of time.

Any "gotchas" on getting the correct alt belt? I heard someone say there were some that might be a little more 'loose' and the spec was a little tricky on this one.


Sorry no more pictures..as the frustration and diesel oil on our hands grew, the desire to pick up the phone & take photos waned.
 
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CUCVLOVER

CUCVLOVER

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west Tennessee, just outside Milan


Belts ( all but M1010 )


  • Driver side alt- Gates# 25-7575; Dayco# 15580
  • Passenger side alt- Gates# 7483; Dayco# 15490
  • Power Steering- Gates# 7448; Dayco#15455

When installing Gatorbacks, I (LavaRok) choose the following three belts:


  • Driver side alt - 15585 ( 58 )
  • Power steering - 15461 ( 45.5 )
  • Passenger side alt - 15491 ( 48.5 )

However, the P side alt was tight. I'd try the 15495 ( 49 ) next time. end quote.

hi buddy its me again hehe

I pulled this from the wiki. I did my belts not long ago and I used the gates belts they are a great fit and run them good and tight with no issues. Sorry about the issues. I can tell you the more you fight it the more its going to fight you, also sometimes it does help to scream out at the top of your lungs your favorite cuss word then go get a coke and come back with fresh mind.
 
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N

nyvram

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:)

it was fun in a sick kind of way..getting to 'know' the truck and spending so much time under the hood. jake got off work about 10 and joined in..we were going to get it installed as a surprise but i'm glad with his packed schedule he was able to participate in the 'fun'.

any idea who might have those belts in stock? i dont want to have to wait for them ordering online.
 
CUCVLOVER

CUCVLOVER

Active member
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Location
west Tennessee, just outside Milan
I know how you feel, just wait until you swap your first starter and lift pump.

When I got my belts i took the gates part numbers to my local napa and got them they should have them in stock. if you go to autozone or anyplace like that for a part do not make any mention of military. I was getting something for my truck and happened to mention it was a old military truck and that just messed up the computer monkey.
 
N

nyvram

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ok, still confused because NAPA doesnt show the correct one. i left the belt at home so i didnt grab the number off it.

also the old thermostat was stuck OPEN so even though we sheared off the bolt head in the process, it was the correct thing to do to go ahead & replace that along with the new radiator.
 
N

nyvram

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Franklin/TN
i'm trying to..not sure what to order. napa has about 6 listed 'for my vehicle'. was going to show them a pic of it. i'll try the TM as well.

eta is this called a 'thermostat bypass hose' perhaps?

The military part is listed as: 14033823 but how do I translate that into a part at NAPA?

Here's the full description:

16 MOOZZ 11862 14033823 HOSE,NONMETALLIC (4.25" LG) MAKE 1

FROM HOSE, P/N MS521304B203R

Ok, I *think* I got it. The only 'bypass hose' listed for the K5 Blazer at NAPA

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ByPassHose-ByPass-625-/_/R-NBGH111_0117249027

Seems you just cut it to fit.
 
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cucvrus

cucvrus

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Hey I hope this is useful to you. But you should change the 4 small water crossover gaskets that are on the engine. Life for you would have been so much easier if you would have just taken the coolant crossover manifold out as a complete assembly. It would have also made it easier to get the bolts out. If you would have removed the coolant crossover manifold you would have been happier. But please do yourself a favor and replace the 4 small gaskets at the front of the head under the coolant crossover manifold and the 2 at the back of the head. 1 from the glow plug temperature sensor and the other is just a block off cover plate. And while you are going that far replace that small bypass hose under the crossover manifold. 5/8" heater hose. Nothing special. I hope that helps. I have a few coolant crossover manifolds if you get in a bind. Budget priced. Good Luck.
 
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rsh4364

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If you end up replacing coolant crossover get the hummer crossover,it has extra ports so you can add temp.gauge sending unit.A sending unit port for elect. fan controller,and still has an additional port for a sacrificial anode if you like.I got mine from cucvrus Rick. And don't get get discouraged,once you own your first one for a while you will know what to fix on your next one before you even buy it! After you get to know them they are super easy to work on.
 
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cucvrus

cucvrus

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It always starts out simple.
But it never ends simple.

In my case it always ends up simply amazing that I went thru all that just to get the end result I was dreaming about. I do a lot of extra work just to make things nicer then they are when I am completed. Most times I can accomplish that with out a lot of cash out put just lots of time and energy. Fit finish and function are my 3 F's.
 
S

scottladdy

Member
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CT
Remember to use anti sieze when you replace the bolts, new or old crossover. A big part of the issue with the bolts freezing up is the corrosion that occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with each other.

Good luck with your repairs.
 
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