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RBU behind deuce?

Scooteerr

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Toney, Alabama
Well, I've been kickin around an idea lately about not just Pullin' a RBU (an mk16(?) or other like it) off of an LVS behind a deuce, but also having the wheels on the trailer powered by the deuce (like they are on the LVS) so it would be like a 10x10 and not just a 6x6.... I've been workin on a farm for the last month to earn enough money to buy a deuce as my first car and I've been workin with ALOT of different implaments there and the pto behind the tractor gave me the idea... I'm thinking if you could somehow make something like a pto behind the deuce that works with the rear wheels when engaged, like the winch does kinda... Just a thought, so any ideas, thoughts, yeas, or nays would be helpful...

Ps. I'm a "new thread virgin" so just tell me if I did anything... Rofl
 

Scooteerr

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The rear axles on a deuce have a PTO output. As long as everything is geared correctly I dont know why you couldnt.
Ya, thanks... I figure I would have too do a lil bit of modding and stuff to trailer and rear axel(?), but I now wonder if the rear pto could stand the stress and I wondered if using the trailer that way would require me to have a cdl, which I could not get I think due to age... Hmmm?
 
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Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
For it to even have a chance of working, all the gearing and tire sizes would all have to be the same on truck and trailer. Then youd have to come up with a drive shaft to go all the way from the rear axle to the input. And that drive shaft would have to have enough clearance to not bind when the truck articulates. While i'm sure it is possible, it is not practical.
 

wb1895

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Lexington NC
After re thinking this ( and realizing I have been up for 22 hours) I dont think this would be a viable idea. While in theory it could work, in reality, it would be WAY too much of a hassle be effective.
 

Heath_h49008

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Yeah. And it's (relatively) easy to do.

Your "trailer" will be sitting on the rear tandems from another deuce and your driveshaft joint would be a large rip-off of the old LandRover design. You would need to run a fairly complicated split shaft design that would handle the extra load all the way back to the engine/trans, as well as probably want more power/beefier trans to handle the extra load.

You would have to work out a slave brake system like a normal Mil. trailer, but larger.

You're just redesigning the whole driveline. And if you engaged it when articulated, it would stand the chance of flipping the whole truck. (if the truck was slipping/stuck and the trailer had traction/pushed at an angle) So, it might not be something you want... but it is possible.

Fun engineering problem!
 

KsM715

Well-known member
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St George Ks
I'm with FFH on this. It possible just not pratical. By the time you fab everything and get it all together you would have spent way more money than if you just bought the whole truck. (HEMMT, PLS, whichever system you want to have behind your deuce)

Its fun to daydream though.
 

Scooteerr

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Toney, Alabama
Thanks for your input guys, I guess it would be way to complicated and expensive to make:roll:, but hey, that's why I asked for your guys input tho... Lol
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
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Gravette Ar.
Didn't some one one here do that all ready?? Not with a RBU but with the back half of a deuce like Heath said.?. The RBU would be way too big to use with a deuce. And that is not a PTO on the back axle of the deuce. It just the rear of the pionion shaft.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
What would be more realistic (fab wise) would be to use a big electric motor to run the trailer.

They now have a diesel-electric HEMMT that uses electric motors to power the vehicle. The Diesel-Electric Hybrid HEMTT A3 Lean by OSHKOSH - Diesel Power Magazine

If they put the same motors on a powered trailer it could be operated much like diesel train locomotives whereby one engineer can run a string of locomotives.

The power to the trailer would be the same as the power to the truck.......it would pull and brake evenly. It would make a world of difference in slick conditions or off road.

Just my rambling thoughts for what they're worth.
 

Scooteerr

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Location
Toney, Alabama
i was just bowsin around other threads and this poped up... it seems like it would be a better route to take...

For every two bobbed trucks I build, I put together a trailer.

I "graft" together two M105 frames, mount them on a bogie and add a M35 bed.

When I'm done my "scrap" is some M105 frame channel and two M105 axles.

I also have leftover a M35 bed and a bogie assembly without axels, but there's always someone who needs those items to repair their truck.

So in the end waste can be pretty minimal.

Think how cool this would be if you could rig up a hinge driveshaft to this trailer. I'd call it a super goat!!
 

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tuckered

New member
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Location
Gladstone MO
A farm tractor has a 3 point hitch that you would connect, say a bush hog. The bush hog gets it power mower from a drive shaft with 2 universal joints at either end. One is attached to the bush hog, so it can be raised, lowered and knocked around a bit. The other u-joint allows the tractor to move the bush hog around and all the movements associated with turning etc. The farmers shaft is expandable, allowing for different lengths of travel between different sized tractors etc.

To remove the drive shaft from the tractor and the implement, there is a lock button that is depressed, and then you simply pull on it remove, then done. Now the shafts themselves are made to stretch in and out, to account for the different angles, and different sized tractors, etc.
The PTO on the tractor and the implement has a nipple sticking out with a depressed area for the button on the drive shaft to lock onto the PTO. No gears involved and the connection itself and drive shaft is not the same on a deuce or 5 ton.

Now, if there was a drive shaft that had one end connected to the output of axle number 3 to a fixed position (say a foot below and just short of the pintail hitch) on the truck and have a drive shaft connected to the input of the trailer's first axle (IE axle number 4) to a place short of the tongue connection. Between the truck and trailer, have a removable farm-tractor type PTO drive shaft connecting the truck and trailer, together.

That way, there is not one very long, single drive shaft connecting the two. This should allow more turning capacity for jackknifing and rough terrain operations.

Simply said, your tuning the trailer (like the one pictured above) into a farm impliment. you would need to shorten the drive saft, divide it into 3 sectons. Thus, allowing for expansion, contraction, and twisting.
 
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Scooteerr

Member
313
0
16
Location
Toney, Alabama
"Super Goat"

A farm tractor has a 3 point hitch that you would connect, say a bush hog. The bush hog gets it power mower from a drive shaft with 2 universal joints at either end. One is attached to the bush hog, so it can be raised, lowered and knocked around a bit. The other u-joint allows the tractor to move the bush hog around and all the movements associated with turning etc. The farmers shaft is expandable, allowing for different lengths of travel between different sized tractors etc.

To remove the drive shaft from the tractor and the implement, there is a lock button that is depressed, and then you simply pull on it remove, then done. Now the shafts themselves are made to stretch in and out, to account for the different angles, and different sized tractors, etc.
The PTO on the tractor and the implement has a nipple sticking out with a depressed area for the button on the drive shaft to lock onto the PTO. No gears involved and the connection itself and drive shaft is not the same on a deuce or 5 ton.

Now, if there was a drive shaft that had one end connected to the output of axle number 3 to a fixed position (say a foot below and just short of the pintail hitch) on the truck and have a drive shaft connected to the input of the trailer's first axle (IE axle number 4) to a place short of the tongue connection. Between the truck and trailer, have a removable farm-tractor type PTO drive shaft connecting the truck and trailer, together.

That way, there is not one very long, single drive shaft connecting the two. This should allow more turning capacity for jackknifing and rough terrain operations.

Simply said, your tuning the trailer (like the one pictured above) into a farm impliment. you would need to shorten the drive saft, divide it into 3 sectons. Thus, allowing for expansion, contraction, and twisting.

[thumbzup]Thank you very much for this in depth explanation[thumbzup], and I'm sorry for my explanation if I was unclear to anyone:roll:... That was kinda what I was thinking, except I didn't know what needs to be done to both the truck and the trailer to accomplish this "Super Goat"... I wonder would this make the "Super Goat" faster or slower?:whistle:
 
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