Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

FloridaAKM

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I bleed the fuel filters after changing them, but nothing else needs it. That said, I came home to a pair of fully charged batteries & turned the power on the Deuce. Fuel is flowing back into the tank, so that pump is working fine as I thought. 10 minutes of the pump running & I decided to spin her up & see if she would fire off. Three 20 second tries & no start or even popping going on. This makes me wonder what is up with this engine.
 

NY Tom

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Have you had any luck with this?

I got mine running - lift pump plug must have gotten oxidized or loose being knocked with the battery charger. Poor troubleshooting on my end.
 

FloridaAKM

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No, I pulled a muscle or something in my back & it was too painful to even move for a while, so no working on the truck last weekend. This weekend is Gator Nationals Weekend, so to miss all the crowds, I will be slumped over the fender again taking out the hydraulic head & lines. Listening to the drag racers do their runs all weekend while working on the Deuce should be relaxing.
 

texas30cal

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Strange that it won’t even fire with ether, regardless of HH it should fire. Make sure intake is not plugged, since it didn’t run when you got it private Pyle is suspect. Maybe rags in intake/turbo? Also verify that valves are moving.
 

FloridaAKM

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Intake is not plugged, tried to remove the check valve coming out of the HH & going back to the tank as return. Spring is not broken, but check valve will not come out with a strong magnet that fits inside where spring rides. Cylinder valves are moving, but I might need to remove the covers to watch them all & check the lash. Injectors are next this weekend if Floridianson has some free time to look @ this beast.:-?
 
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FloridaAKM

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Last week Floridianson came by & we hooked a known good injector to the #3 injector line. Spinning the engine produced no results with the new attached injector, removing the injector allowed fuel to pulse out, but with no pressure. Time for a rebuild on the injector pump? This past week we surmised that the check valve under the 12 point bolt was not doing its job, but I have always been told not to remove the plug. So, I removed the plug & the spring & sprayed carb cleaner into the bore & swabbed it out again.
Using a cheap pair of HF needle nose pliers, the check valve could be grabbed inside the bore & pulled out with a sucking sound of diesel in a tight tolerence bore. It was quite stuck, but the carb cleaner freed it. There was no real gunk on the check valve or the bore, just that reddish brown thin coating that biodiesel leaves on the fuel system. Cleaned it all up & reassembled the parts, checked the engine for FOD, put the steel plate next the intake in case of a runaway if it started & jumped in the drivers seat to spin over the engine. The first spin over was like all others with no results after the starter dropped out. The second time the engine started popping & blowing smoke out the exhaust & continued to run raggedly. I let it idle @ 1000 rpm on the throttle control for about 10 minutes & the engine smoked thru the blowby road tube a lot, but it runs now. Changed the oil & filters, but still need to go thru the brakes before a road trip to shake her down. Thanks for all the comments & help guys. Thanks to Gimpy for the spare spring & button for the hydraulic head.
 

MMarks

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Need a little help please.? The M35A2 ran rough and sluggish before. Idle was around 850. Then one day it wouldn’t start. I reviewed the thread and videos. The short of my long story.. Lined up marks before removing original HH . Replaced HH with new from CC . All back together and runs but RPM is high. 1000. Thoughts please? Possibly a tooth off?
 

Another Ahab

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I found my leak. This makes it easy peasey. It took me about two hours with 30 min for a lunch break. These O rings were flat and brittle. The main leak was the small one on mine. Labeled the lines with painters tape.
Nice work, Slate!

You must have been pretty confident (or maybe I'm just LACKING confidence sometimes):

- I hate stopping in the middle of a project for fear of forgetting my focus and losing the momentum

Was that lunch break because you felt "over the hump" already?!
 

Slate

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Nice work, Slate!

You must have been pretty confident (or maybe I'm just LACKING confidence sometimes):

- I hate stopping in the middle of a project for fear of forgetting my focus and losing the momentum

Was that lunch break because you felt "over the hump" already?!
The wife said come eat now and I jumped. She's a good cook and I would hate to miss out. Now I have an M54A2 I'm going to do this on next. I'm guessing it Should be the same.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

Another Ahab

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The wife said come eat now and I jumped. She's a good cook and I would hate to miss out. Now I have an M54A2 I'm going to do this on next. I'm guessing it Should be the same.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
So, for that M54A2 project, you're saying that lunch will be left-overs?

:mrgreen:
 

frank8003

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So...

Say How does one shut down a muti-fuel engine, ... yank the handle out or pull slow until she dies.
What is all the mecahnical and hydraulic things that happen when one pulls the shutoff handle, what happens inside all of that? There is lots going on in there.

Does One dump diesel crankcase drain oil into the fuel tank?
What RMS is the rotating plunger to the sleve within the HH? and how does one protect that?

Did One ever hand lap something that rotates and rides up and down?
What lapping compound was originally used. The test bench built to qualify injection pumps was very interesting. What would fail the testing. What would pass. Did One understand that procedure/TM?


This is questions, and just a few. .............
 

schriffsMN

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Long Prairie, MN
So...

Say How does one shut down a muti-fuel engine, ... yank the handle out or pull slow until she dies.
What is all the mecahnical and hydraulic things that happen when one pulls the shutoff handle, what happens inside all of that? There is lots going on in there.
Pull the handle firmly, just don't rip it out. No benefit to pulling slowly. It's a pretty simple shutoff, once you can see what it does. Pulling the cable moves a lever that rotates a shaft. The end of the shaft moves a block that blocks a fuel passage in the piston.
 

brianp454

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Now that you have the HH out what are you going to do with it? Most guys I know will go ahead and spend the money to just replace it. All that I have read says these parts can not be rebuilt. Pesonally I take that as a challenge. Here is my thinking (and again there will be plenty of you out there to tell me I'm wrong and I'm wasting my time, it's my time so deal with it) I can spend $400 on a new HH or I can waste 3 hours of my time to pull it out, redo it and put it back together. I have way more time than money and if it's bad then what's the harm.

I took the HH down to my dads house, this is where we have rebuilt a few items that we were told couldn't be done. As you can see in the pic my plunger was stuck up and wasn't coming down for anything. A lot of WD40 and a few taps with a drift and the plunger moved down. lubed it up and tapped it back up to see if it would move freely, and of course not. So we decided it was best to take it apart, and yes it can come apart very easily. The plunger must be down, do not force it too far down there is a retaining plate holding it from going too far and it's the same plate that rotates it with the gear. When the plunger is down collapse the spring and remove the 2 spring retainers. These are no different than if you were looking at the top of a valve. When those come out off comes the spring and the bottom plate. Now you can see the gear and the plunger retaining plate I was talking about. Tap the plunger up and use a drift to move it the rest of the way up if needed. The button fell off the bottom of mine and forced the plunger too far up on mine sticking it in place, that caused it to not be able to spin and therefore cracking the retaining plate into 2 pieces. You would also brake the retaining plate if you pushed the plunger too far down. Now you should have the Head, plunger, coild spring, bottom spring plate, top spring plate, 2 spring retainers, button, 3 finger spring that holds the button in place and the fuel shut off plate.

We looked at all these parts for a few minutes and I thought for sure I was going to need a new HH because of the cracked plate. However, thank to Gimp, I now have that retaining plate on the way. I was also still dealing with the fact that my plunger would not move freely in the head. Well my dad being the old Air Force mechanic and shade tree mechanic that he is pulls out a tube of lapping compound and we got to work. Using a small dab of compound and a drill we relapped the plunger into the head. If this is something you decide to do, make sure you change directions of the drill freaquently and move it up and down, do not stay in one place for any length of time. Just did it enough so the plunger is snug but movable. That plunger needs to be able to move up and down as well as spin in the head, so snug is good loose is bad. Also make sure to spray cleaner into all the journals of the plunger and the head to get any debry out of them. And when spraying into an injector port note that it will come out of the port 180* from it and it does not taste very good. When all done and all clean use some fresh oil to lube the plunger and pu it all back together. Best of luck that it will now work for you. I have to wait until I get the retaining plate from Gimp to put mine all back together and try it. If you look at the included pics on this post you can see all the parts that we removed as well as the broken retaining plate. If anyone has a "bad" HH they would be willing to send me, next I'd like to remove the set screws from one and see what's inside of it. Or maybe you want to know if this will help fix yours but just aren't able to try it, maybe I can help.

I can't tell you for sure yet that this is going to work, but I see no reason why it won't. Either way I will be sure to post more pics and results of my testing when I get the part in and get it all back together.

O-Ring Sizes:

Large O-Ring: 2.484 x .139 = -230 or 230 (depending on which standard)
Small O-ring: 2.109 x .139 = -227 or 227 (depending on which standard)
Actuator O-Ring: .426 x .070 = -013 or 013 (depending on which standard)
 

frank8003

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Pull the handle firmly, just don't rip it out. No benefit to pulling slowly. It's a pretty simple shutoff, once you can see what it does. Pulling the cable moves a lever that rotates a shaft. The end of the shaft moves a block that blocks a fuel passage in the piston.
and the governor goes wide open?
 

brianp454

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Location
Portland, OR
Delivery valve. Yep pull it out and clean port and valve. Small screwdriver in the slot and it will rotate to get it loose.
It notates with no effort and seems to be held in by the oil film. A standard magnet cannot pull it put. My high force magnets are too big to fit down the hole. I'd tried using a strong magnet with a steel rod, but that doesn't get it out. How do you pull it out?
 

Floridianson

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It notates with no effort and seems to be held in by the oil film. A standard magnet cannot pull it put. My high force magnets are too big to fit down the hole. I'd tried using a strong magnet with a steel rod, but that doesn't get it out. How do you pull it out?
Never had one so stuck that it would not release. Maybe spray brake cleaner in the hole and spin the delivery valve. Maybe if you have the center bolt out of the top of the Head put some air to it and maybe it will pop out.
 
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