Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

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There is a good thread here about a leak from the top of the HH. That could be what is happening with mine. Apparently, the diesel can creep down the sides of the HH after leaking from the base of one or more injector lines. Since I reinstalled those old lines, that is a possibility. I'll check it out next week when I have the time.
 

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I took the rubber caps off the injector lines at the HH. While running, it is dripping about two drops every five seconds or so to the ground below the injector. Number 3 injector nut filled with diesel around the line and at the base where it meets the HH. So I'm assuming the ferrule is not compressed enough. I tried tightening it with an open end and it budged a tiny amount, but it still leaks. So at this point do I replace the injector line, which replaces the ferrule? I don't want to cut and use the patch fitting someone did on this forum. I'm barely treading water here as it is, so swapping parts is fine with me. But will that fix the leak, or can there be another problem I'm not seeing? Note - #3 is one of the two injector outlets on the HH where I discovered the orange rust-looking gunk at the bottom of the HH hole when I disassembled to replace the o-rings. I thoroughly cleaned the holes out with q-tips before reassembly.
 

cattlerepairman

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A burr at the ferrule can cause persistent leaking. You could polish the ferrule with fine sand paper or scotch brite, then blow the line through and clean the ferrule, put a dab of grease on it (to grease between the line and the nut) and reassemble. If it still is not dry, tighten a little more....like 1/16 turn at a time. Important to not over-tighten.
Also consider the possibility of a crack in the hydraulic head (usually hidden underneath the plate with the line numbers).
Good luck!
 

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A burr at the ferrule can cause persistent leaking. You could polish the ferrule with fine sand paper or scotch brite, then blow the line through and clean the ferrule, put a dab of grease on it (to grease between the line and the nut) and reassemble. If it still is not dry, tighten a little more....like 1/16 turn at a time. Important to not over-tighten.
Also consider the possibility of a crack in the hydraulic head (usually hidden underneath the plate with the line numbers).
Good luck!
I did consider the possibility that my original problem still is a cracked HH. When I had it off for the o-ring replacement I looked it over, but an untrained eye could miss the crack. A new set of injector lines is over $500, so I will try removing the #3 and inspecting the ferrule. I may have already over-tightened. But it cannot hurt to do what you advised and see if it stops leaking. I am blessed with it being #3 line, relatively easy-peasy. I suspect over-tightening can lead to a HH crack?
 

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When I removed the line today, the ferrule at the HH end was rough on the mating surface. Compared to the injector end surface, it was real rough. There was dirty diesel in the HH hole that I cleaned out with q-tips. This was one of the two holes that had the red sludge in it from the rubber covers being torn and water getting in when I snowplowed in years past. I ordered another line and will see what happens when I install it.
 

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I installed a NOS #3 injector line. The good news is that line no longer leaks at the HH. The bad news is I still have a decent diesel leak from somewhere under the side cover. Next chance I get to work on it, I will start it up and using a mirror, try to determine where the leak is coming from. I could have a cracked HH, or the side lever o-ring could be one of the ones that is a tad too large, causing a leak into the side cover. This is becoming a frustrating ordeal. I'm starting to think I should have driven the truck to a diesel mechanic and obtained a new mortgage on my house to pay the bill.
 

GopherHill

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Hiring out repairs is well and good IF the job is done correctly. I wouldn't think much expertise is out there for repairs on these trucks. So many resources are out there (and on this forum) so to educate yourself . The job will turn out better in most cases because you care about getting it right.
Just my opinion from the school of hard lessons ( and old age )
 

GunInstructordotcom

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Hiring out repairs is well and good IF the job is done correctly. I wouldn't think much expertise is out there for repairs on these trucks. So many resources are out there (and on this forum) so to educate yourself . The job will turn out better in most cases because you care about getting it right.
Just my opinion from the school of hard lessons ( and old age )
Here is where I'm at. I had a leak from the fuel injector pump area, dripping to the ground about one drip every few seconds. I replaced the three o-rings. Upon reassembly, I still had a leak from the fuel injector pump area, same volume. I noticed a weeping leak at the #3 injector line HH connection. I replaced the #3 line and that leak is gone. I still have the other leak, which appears to be coming from under the shutoff cover. Next I will remove the cover and see if there is diesel where there should only be oil. If there is, I can replace the small o-ring again and see if that stops the leak. The other problem I may have is a cracked HH. I may have missed a hairline crack when I had it off. If the small o-ring replacement does not stop the leak, I guess I have to remove the HH again and give it a careful examination.

The new Chinese HHs are still available at $500 from US sources. The Chinese company that makes them emailed me that they are out of stock and are having a materials supply shortage, so no estimate as to when they're back in stock. That would have been about $220.

Other than the small o-ring not sealing or a cracked HH, are there any other possible sources of the leak? I will check for leaks all the fuel line connectors that I removed and re-installed. Do I have to align the red tooth before I remove the shutoff lever shaft to replace the small o-ring again? Thank you for your advice. I'm trying to gain knowledge as I go through this.
 

NY Tom

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I installed a NOS #3 injector line. The good news is that line no longer leaks at the HH. The bad news is I still have a decent diesel leak from somewhere under the side cover. Next chance I get to work on it, I will start it up and using a mirror, try to determine where the leak is coming from. I could have a cracked HH, or the side lever o-ring could be one of the ones that is a tad too large, causing a leak into the side cover. This is becoming a frustrating ordeal. I'm starting to think I should have driven the truck to a diesel mechanic and obtained a new mortgage on my house to pay the bill.
Did you drive the truck after changing the line or just run it?
I had the same problem and it did not leak just running. Thought I was in the clear. Took it for a drive and the leak became apparent.
 

jimm1009

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On Saturday my Deuce died at my shop and it was suggested to me that my hydraulic head may be the problem. I spent the last few days reading threads on what to check and how to go about removing the head and I talked to Gimp about it. I will admit that at first the idea of diving into any part of the IP scared me a little bit. The price tag of a new IP or even just the head scared me more though. But I dug in and did it. I found the problem and am in the process of taking care of that problem. I noticed when reading all the threads there was great information and good diagrams, but no real world pictures. So what I did was take lots of pictures to help the next guy do this job a little easier and to help me remember how it all goes back together. I will do my best to explain what the pictures are and hope they help. Also when reading this I know there will be a few people out there that will point out why I am wrong how I did it wrong and what I should have done. That's great, why didn't you post a thread when you did it and share with us all what you learned? If there is a tip that can help please add it, if there is a reason why I'm an idiot, well add it to the list.

One thing I learned was there is a plunger inside the HH that moves up and down on a cam. This plunger can become stuck if any debry gets past your fuel filters or with the ULSD fuels that do not propperly lubricate our pumps. The first pic shows the tp of the HH. Remove the bolt/plug in the center. It's a 3/4" and may be better reached with a nonimpact socket because it's a bit tight in there. Remove the plug and be very careful not to let anything get into that hole. Might be a wise idea to spray the area with a cleaner first and then wipe it or blow it off. Now get a wooden dowl or a soft metal drift and someone to turn the motor over for you. When the motor is turning that dowl/drift should move up and down. If it does not, as mine did not, then here is your problem. Use the down/drift and hammer to lightly tap on the plunger. This may free up the plunger. Do not hit it too hard, there is a small button on the bottom of the plunger that can be easily knocked loose, this is a bad thing to have happen. After tapping if the plunger has gone down turn the motor over again and see if it is now moving. If it moves great, hope that it was a fluke and carry on. If not,as mine did not, you have more work to do.

To remove the HH it's not that hard, took me a little over an hour with taking pictures. Make sure you have some way of marking your fuel lines. I'm sure there is only one way for them to go back in as long as you don't bend them, but why waste the time trying each lines fit, just lable them and be done with it. Also remember the order they come off and reverse that order to replace them. What I found worked best for me was to do the lines to the cylinders in this order: 5,3, 6, 2, 1, 4. Again as stated earlier I'm sure someone has a better way, but this is what worked for me. There is also the over flow T in the front of the HH to come off. Those lines ar 7/16" if memory serves me correct. Then the fuel line to the back of the HH and I believe that was a 9/16". It is much easier to get to that back fuel with all the injector lines out of the way first. when you look at the second pic you will see a cover with 2 screws just below the HH. That is the cover for the fuel shut off valve. Remove this cover and it should look something like the third pic. Slide off the clip that holds the slide bar on. Then cut the wire holding the retaining screws in place and remove the screws. The whole piece will slide out now. Be careful as there is a piece on the end of that shaft that spins on a very small pin. In the last pic you can see the gear inside that housing and just above the gear in te middle of the housing is a small indicator arrow. My gear has a red and scorred tooth, your may only be scored. This is not easy to see with the fender in place. You can see it here because I was able to lower the camera in place. For you to see it you will need to crawl under the fender and look through the vent slots, and even then it's not easy. That tooth muct line up with that indicator, that's the only positiong the HH will come out in. To line that up you need to rotate the motor. Here is where you need to do what works best for you. When that is lined up remove the 4 nuts that hold the HH down. There are clips under the nuts and on top of the HH, don't lose them. Then as long as the gear is in the right position the HH should be able to be picked straight up and out.
 
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jimm1009

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I need some help fellow MVers. I am having to change the HH on my truck. I spent the money and have a new one in my grubby hands.
The engine is in the truck of course. I have all the hard lines removed but I have not put the engine up on #1 firing cylinder yet nor have I lines up the timing. I am search for replacement of the pump even though I am not actually replacing it. I have a new HH and the old one is being sold for a parts unit or scrap. Not being successful at finding the information on how to get the engine on #1 on TDC firing order so that the pump timing is close.
I would love to talk with someone on the telephone today if possible. I am really desperate to get this truck running ASAP.

jimm1009
 
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jimm1009

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I removed the old HH and put the new one on. I had to watch one more video to see more details on the pivot shaft and the keyed pin installation but all went well. The truck has no leaks and actually runs better and accelerates faster.. Imagine a Deuce with fast acceleration. lol
I have to say that with a great verbal coaching from Floridianson I was able to get the job done right the first time.
I really appreciate his coaching me the other day while I was in dire straights.
A few helpful hints for the next person in this pickle, make sure you clean and lubricate the nuts prior to attempting to loosen. Brush all the lines using a steel toothbrush. Rust and dirt causes friction and this is your greatest enemy here. You could potentially twist line and that is a a recipe for distaste. Spray lube around them and brush again. Use shop air and blow everything off and lube one more time. Upon reinstallation apply a small amount of grease or Vaseline under the concave seats of the nuts. This helps tremendously and of course the lube is petroleum base and will go right through the injector on start up. After bleeding the the input line to the injection pump using the "lift pump" or electric in-tank pump, I motored the engine with all the high pressure line upper ends loose. Great fuel flow out the tops of 2 through 6 cylinders and 1 was a little slow. I figured that if 2 through 6 would fire off then number one would catch up and it did.
This is a scary task the first time around but it is actually easy to do but take your time. Take pictures before you touch anything as a picture can be worth thousand of words.
There are great youtube videos out there although I found the jeepsinker video to be more beneficial in my case. After the HH installation the cross shaft has to go back and you must be careful to have that pivot pin timed correctly in the inboard end of the shaft. After the jeepsinker video coaching for this portion of the task, I glued it in place with Vaseline and it went right into place the first time.

jimm1009
aka; Jim
 
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