Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

And of course I get bragging rights for rebuilding the HH after being told it couldn't be done.
I tend to steer away from this much over confidence. I figured your hydraulic head could be made to work and it may even last (the great unknown), but after a comment like that, you are more likely to s^^t and fall back in it.:cookoo:

Glad you got it running, maybe we can have a convoy this weekend.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Well I do look forward to the first test drive and I do hope and pray that it holds a good long time. But now I think it's time to give credit where credit is due. Westy for getting me hooked up with Gimp. Gimp for all the help over the phone and of course the box of parts and my dad, for having the old tube of lapping compound and for teaching me to never give in to a part. And of course without this site I never would have made it this far with this truck. Thank you all who have contributed in a posative way to this site and made it great
 

cjtroutt

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Great write up Kenny I glad to se you made your goal and beat the odds very Kool.
Keep up the good job and thank you.:smile:
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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I am happy to report that I have had the deuce on several short trips now and everything is fine. I do have a loose fuel line I need to get tightened up, but the HH is holding in there. Now let's just hope it stays that way.
 

RichardR

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Congratulations on tackling this job and working your way through it to a successful conclusion. Just goes to show that many repairs in this hobby aren't really too difficult, just intimidating. I believe you have also documented what usually breaks in one of these injection pumps when the plunger sticks. The broken "bowtie washer" shown in your second set of pictures and that TREEGUY talks about here in post 14 of this thread, is the same as used in the MEP-002A and MEP-003A injector pumps. Ambac calls it an Oldham Plunger Guide and will sell you a new one for about $15 plus shipping. Seems like a lot for a little piece of metal, except when you really need it and cannot weld the broken one back together like TREEGUY did.

I'm not too surprised you got your IP to work by just putting the broken pieces back in without welding them back together, but be aware that the plunger guide/bowtie washer should fit just right on the plunger or the IP timing will be affected. Yours apparently is a "close enough fit" with the pieces assembled as you have done. Again, congratulations and thanks for an informative post.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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RichardR,
I didn't reuse my bowtie, I got one from Gimp. Even when not broken they are very sloppy. I have thought about getting one of out machine shop members to make a new one with tighter tolerances and give that a try. However, I'm sure there is a reason for the slop and probably shouldn't try it.
 

RichardR

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Kennys,
Yes, the bowtie washer (plunger guide) has a lot of slop by design, so you are good to go with the unbroken one you got from Gimp. I doubt there's any advantage to fabricating a tighter-fitting one. And the $15 + shipping price for a new one from Ambac may not be too extortionate considering the small number of these any of us is likely to need in our lifetimes.:p
Congratulations on tackling a job that is more intimidating than difficult, and WINNING!
Richard
 

stevegr

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Kenny,

Excellent write up! The pics and info you've posted have been very helpfull to me. The plunger in my deuces hh will not retract. I've sprayed PB Blaster tapped it back down, spun the engine over, sprayed PB Blaster, tapped it back down and repeat. I'm hoping to work the plunger free by doing that without having to remove the hh.

I have a question on the measured height of the plunger in the hh. Did you happen to measure the height of the plunger when it was in the fully up position before removing the hh from the ip? I removed the plunger screw, measured the height with calipers as 1.102" from the top surface of the hh. I can tap the plunger down and get a reading of 1.275" from the top of the hh. I'm hoping someone has measured this that has a good hh with the button intact on the end of the plunger as that might confirm if the button has fallen off of my plunger.

Thanks,

Greg
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Greg,

I would guess the button fell off the bottom. If I was you I would remove the HH to make sure you free it correctly. I will offer any help I can to walk you through the process.
 

marchplumber

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Congrats on fixing the "dreaded HH!":shock: Courage isn't the lack of fear, it is goin forward through it! Positive thinking! and leading by example!! Negative thinkin gets ya no where! First Team, Sir!
God bless,

Tony:)
 

stevegr

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Halleluiah and Yee Haw! Fixed the hydraulic head on my deuce yesterday and she's running great. The button, button spring retainer and one valve lock had come loose. Fortunately there were no broken parts and I did not have to lap the plunger or the hole because the plunger was moving freely. Took everything apart including the check valve, cleaned it with carb spray, silicone spray and compressed air. Generously oiled the plunger and all other moving parts, reassembled and reinstalled the hh and my deuce is running great.
 

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scrapdaddy

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Steve, can your plunger slide all the way through , when you had it apart or did it get tight at one end. I'm working on a generator, but it's almost the same pump. Moves free and easy until the one end gets to a spot then tightens up. keep checking, prolly my problem.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Ron,
It should be able to move all the way through the bore hole. The best way I can describe the resistance is similar to that of a shock absorber. And it shouldn't all through, that would be too loose.

Greg,
Very happy to see you got it working again.
 

merlot566jka

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Very good! I like this thread!

I often pride myslef on the "un-doable" tasks I seem to accomplish. Thumbs up!

This plunger...this compresses the fuel and moves it into??? I assume the area where its distributed to the lines, what distributes it?
How is the quantity of fuel injected determined?
how is the timing of the fuel injection pulse controlled?


.... sorry dont mean to hi-jack your thread, just curious.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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As the plunger moves up it also turns. The up stroke is where the preasure comes from to open the injectors. As it turns and moves up it comes into position with two pin holes that lead to two injector lines. When the IP is installed it must be timed with the motor the same way you time a cam shaft. The HH also has a timing mark on it in the form of a scored or red colored tooth. The most common problem I have found is the button on the bottom of the plunger falls off and then the plunger just won't go up and down or it gets jammed into the plunger causing the plunger to get stuck.
 
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