Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,968
123
63
Location
Leesburg, GA
Great thread, it's been a wonderful read and I've read it a couple of times in the past few days. I just pulled a hydraulic head today for a buddy. It went flawless. He's having an issue of making oil on a truck that already has the FDC bypassed so here we are. The truck ran fine prior to this, should we even bother to tear into the HH or just leave it be and replace the seals?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27,660
222
63
Location
Cincy Ohio
If you had the HH out, you should replace the O-rings(2) it sits on. Also the O-ring that seals the "shut off" shaft.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,968
123
63
Location
Leesburg, GA
10-4 Gimpy, that's the plan. I only saw 1 O-Ring at the base of the HH, sorta recessed into the IP body. The owner is ordering a kit from White Owl and the plan is to put it back together Saturday. I believe it was leaking more into the shut off housing than anywhere else but the 1 o ring at the bottom of the HH looked pretty much crushed flat and didn't have alot of resiliency to it.
 

dodgedougak

New member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
419
0
0
Location
Joseph, OR
HH O-rings

If anybody has a part number for the O-ring kit or the three individual O-rings, or the O-ring sizes, I would appreciate that info. I will end up having to order these from a supply house or fuel injection shop in Seattle. Thanks
doug
 

Josh

Active member
1,678
10
38
Location
Portland, Oregon
Im about to star the process of changing out my HH. When you guys had to spin the motor over, to line everything up, did you just blip the starter?
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
2,968
123
63
Location
Leesburg, GA
We put the truck in 5th, high transfer and moved the entire truck. It can also be done in gear with a wrench snaked through a universal joint. You would have to get very lucky to line the marks up with the starter. We're talking, a truck in 5th moving almost 1/2 an inch to get things lined up. Also, don't think too much about the timing marks underneath the 4 bolt governor cover toward the front of the IP. They are going to be off to the left. Doghead put a good picture up a while back. Also, don't worry about where the crankshaft damper is, those marks are off a little as well. Just look for the scored tooth and maybe the red mark lining up with the triangle reference point. It helps to have a mirror as you can't really see through the inner fender and the steering box keeps you from looking upside down from the top.
 

RIDDLE1

New member
272
2
0
Location
Americus GA
We put the truck in 5th, high transfer and moved the entire truck. It can also be done in gear with a wrench snaked through a universal joint. You would have to get very lucky to line the marks up with the starter. We're talking, a truck in 5th moving almost 1/2 an inch to get things lined up. Also, don't think too much about the timing marks underneath the 4 bolt governor cover toward the front of the IP. They are going to be off to the left. Doghead put a good picture up a while back. Also, don't worry about where the crankshaft damper is, those marks are off a little as well. Just look for the scored tooth and maybe the red mark lining up with the triangle reference point. It helps to have a mirror as you can't really see through the inner fender and the steering box keeps you from looking upside down from the top.
Yea you to have a buddy to make this work! Preferably 2!

Thanks again for the help man. I ordered the complete Ip seal/o-ring kit this AM. I also had to get ANOTHER dampner. I managed to let the "new" one I got slip out of my hand and hit the radiator mount. Chipped a dern chunk out of the pulley. I was not happy! Hopefully it will be here by the end of the week,
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27,660
222
63
Location
Cincy Ohio
Sorry I missed this till now, the 2 O-rings the HH sits on is
A: 2.484x.139
B: 2.109x.139

Not sure what the one on the fuel shutoff rod is.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27,660
222
63
Location
Cincy Ohio
We put the truck in 5th, high transfer and moved the entire truck. It can also be done in gear with a wrench snaked through a universal joint. You would have to get very lucky to line the marks up with the starter. We're talking, a truck in 5th moving almost 1/2 an inch to get things lined up. Also, don't think too much about the timing marks underneath the 4 bolt governor cover toward the front of the IP. They are going to be off to the left. Doghead put a good picture up a while back. Also, don't worry about where the crankshaft damper is, those marks are off a little as well. Just look for the scored tooth and maybe the red mark lining up with the triangle reference point. It helps to have a mirror as you can't really see through the inner fender and the steering box keeps you from looking upside down from the top.
The red/scored tooth on the HH is ONLY used for removing the HH. The marks on the dampener and advanced unit(disk under the 4 bolt hole window) are for timing the pump to the motor.

Yes, an inspection mirror helps find the red/scored tooth.

When you put the HH back in, you want the arrow cast into the IP to point to the "valley" just before the red/scored tooth.
 

Attachments

Bill W

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,984
18
38
Location
Brooks,Ga
Hey does anyone have a source for the 2 O-rings for the HH, I know it was asked but I did not see any answers.
Thanks

P.S. Great Thread
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
Steel Soldiers Supporter
27,660
222
63
Location
Cincy Ohio
Do a local search online, should be someone near you. I found mine at a shop 2mins from me.
 

m816

New member
483
2
0
Location
Chatham, NJ
Thanks Kenny and Gimpy. This is the best thread I have read in a long time. We were working on a fuel problem with a deuce we are restoring now and had already replaced the HH. got it all back together and discovered one of our problems was that the fuel shut off lever was sticking really bad. We could start it but it would run up and then just shut down. Once we got that shaft to turn freely, our problem resolved itself and the engine runs great.Just a mnor idle adjustment and it is as good as new. It is intimidating at first but it really isn't hard once you get a coule great minds working on the problem and have the resourses of some better minds on this site to pick apart. Thanks Gentlmen.[thumbzup]
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks