Removing, rebuilding, reinstalling Hydraulic Head

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skidder

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Winsted,conn
Gentlemen, I salute you, for taking the time an energy an patience to do this for all to benifit from ! THIS, is what its all about !! THE Steel Sodlers Family !!
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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The best place I have found for O rings is a place called oringsandmore.com It's also the only palce I was able to find replacement axle vents. And I will have a shipment of HH's going out to all of our group buy members soon. It was such a success I may be convinced to do it again.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
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Waukesha, WI
Yesterday I went over to DavidB's place and replaced all three o rings with him. I used to think removing the heater was the best way to do the job until I went to Dave's place. He simply removed the fender. I can now also say I worked on a cover girl as at one time his truck was on the cover of MV Magazine. I'm sure that based on the one picture you will be able to tell why I was so glad he did remove the fender. Or maybe he was all too happy to do it?
 

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Keith_J

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Location
Schertz TX
Im about to star the process of changing out my HH. When you guys had to spin the motor over, to line everything up, did you just blip the starter?
Transfer case in neutral, transmission in 5th and use a pry bar to turn the driveshaft between the transmission and transfer case while your assistant looks for alignment of the red tooth with the indicator mark.

Use the starter to get the red tooth in visible range, then use the manual method
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
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Location
Leesburg, GA
Send you to school with an apple and you eat the teacher.
5th gear and the transfer in netrual. Pry the jackshaft around with a small bar.[/QUOTE]

Sir, Thanks for the response. In the next sentence I said you could snake a wrench through a U Joint, I should have clarified that I'd have the transfer in neutral and snake the wrench through the jack shaft. Nice to see you still on here Floridianson.
 

Keith_J

Active member
2,918
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38
Location
Schertz TX
Send you to school with an apple and you eat the teacher.
5th gear and the transfer in netrual. Pry the jackshaft around with a small bar.
Sir, Thanks for the response. In the next sentence I said you could snake a wrench through a U Joint, I should have clarified that I'd have the transfer in neutral and snake the wrench through the jack shaft. Nice to see you still on here Floridianson.[/QUOTE]

Eventually, we paint a pretty detailed picture of what is right. I'm not Bob Ross. But getting 35 year old diesel systems to work is just as beautiful.
 

RichardR

Member
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Location
Austin, TX
... in your post you mention AMBAC, who is that? How do I reach them?...
"AMBAC" is AMBAC International, curiously not the first link that Google produces when searching for AMBAC, but the second or third result. (Guess they didn't pay for the right consultant to get them first place.) Anyway, the link is www.ambac.net

Click on the Technical Data Sheets (link on left side of main page) to access more manuals, technical data, repair instructions and part numbers than you will want to read. I don't recognize the IP for the Deuce anywhere in the list, but maybe it is in there somewhere. I do recognize the IP for the MEP-002A and MEP-003A as "Model 050."

The hydraulic head for the Deuce is similar to that for the MEPs, and some of the parts are the same. Specifically, the plunger guide (the "bowtie washer" that always breaks) is the same and its part number can be found in the MEP documentation http://www.ambac.net/images/9540A.pdf as part number GU8546.

Contact info is found in the link on the main page. Call 1-800-628-6894 and a very nice lady will take your order. I'm sure it helps if you know the part number you need before calling, but she can probably steer you to the right manual and part number. I'm sure she has gotten enough requests for Deuce IP parts by now that she knows them all by memory.

Let me know if you need more,
Richard
 

whatadeuce

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
Thank you Richard, and thanks to Ken also for all the shared IP repair posts and pictures . I am so much in agreement with the thinking that these devices can be repaired. i enjoy my machine and intend to keep it forever. WHATADEUCE
 

fsearls92

Member
609
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16
Location
Orlando, Fl
Ok, I know this is an old post and hopefully someone can help me out. Just found out the truck is making oil. The truck's fdc has already been bypassed and now I am going to replace the o-rings in the HH. I just don't understand if they are in the side cover that is pulled off in various pictures of this thread; or if I need to pull off the injector lines and pull off the round part that they tie into. Can someone verify where the o-rings are? One other question is if the injector lines have to be pulled off, do I have to bleed the injectors once reassembled or do I just hook them back up and start it again?
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Location
Waukesha, WI
There is one small o ring under that cover on the shut off rod. The other two are under the HH itself. You will need to remove all the injector lines and then the HH. I still have a few sets of the O rings, if you need them pm me.
 

fsearls92

Member
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Location
Orlando, Fl
Ok, I am going to try and tackel this tomorrow! I am going to get the o-rings from craig and tagger here locally. Hopefully they will work. Do I need to crack the injectors and bleed fuel from them prior to starting the truck?
 

orren

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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-1
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Location
Live Oak, Florida, USA
Kenny,

You seemed to use the correct lapping compound to clean up the high pressure parts.
What is the grit or ID number you used?

Thanks,
Orren
 
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