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Replacement Batteries: Exide, not Optima.

combat jump

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Raleigh, NC
Just wanted to share my recent experience with getting batteries for the M1028. In the past few days, I have been searching the posts on this topic, and feel what I have learned may help someone else.


My original cube shaped military batteries died within months of getting the truck, back in 2010. I replaced them with Group 65 sized “Kirkland” brand batteries from Costco, which put out 850 CCA. These were the largest that Costco sold at the time. Down side to giving up the military battery is that I had to insert chunks of 2x4 as spacers under the hold down bracket because the new batteries were not as tall.


These Kirkland batteries were warranted for 36 months, and lasted nearly three and a half years; crapping out suddenly last week (turning the engine over slowly without starting), and leaving me stranded.

Strangely, the truck started when cold (overnight), but not when warm after being parked for an hour. Charging them overnight resulted in only slight improvement.

Upon removing the batteries and testing them with a Schumacher SpeedCharge Ship & Shore SSC 1500A automatic charger, the front battery showed (I think) 70%, while the rear was only 10%!

Electrolyte levels were fine – no plates uncovered.

So, I figured the rear battery is shot, and the front is marginal. Time to replace them both. But with what? Optima? Not necessarily.

First off, I wanted at least 900 CCA, and at least 150 minutes of reserve. I was looking for Group 31 sized batteries. Optima makes a blue top (dual use: starting and deep cycle) that would work, but were not available in stores near me. O’Reilly Auto Parts could order them, but the price was @ $270 each. Amazon would ship me a set for free (prime member gets free shipping) for $219 eacdh, but returning them would be a hassle.


Why worry about returning them? Optima batteries either work great, or they have a shorted cell and won’t hold a charge. Twice I have bought them (for other applications) and have had shorted cells. Here’s the dig with Optima: You can only return them to the vender you bought them from (or mail them to Optima, for which I would have to pay)! I bought mine from a promotional Optima vendor at a car show. O’Rielly’s would not accept it. I waited until the car show was back in town, and took the dead battery back to the same vendor and swapped it for a working one (fortunately still under the 24 month warrantee). Lesson learned? Don’t buy an Optima if there is no convenient way to return it. Two of the three Optima's I have owned were bad. Amazon’s price was good, but if I did not want to have to mail it back for exchange. O’Reilly’s was just not a good price, even though I could return it to the store. So, on to my next option: A Regular Group 31 battery.



I went to a Sears Auto Center – no Group 31’s in stock. It’s the weekend, so I could not check the Interstate warehouse (closed), though I am pretty sure they would have some Group 31’s and at a fair price. I called West Marine. Not in stock. Tractor Supply – Yes! And for only $109!! I made sure two were in stock, and drove 30 miles to my closest Tractor Supply, in Gilroy, CA. Core charge was 10 bucks.
At home, I topped up the batteries on the charger. One was at 75%, the other at 90%. Both are now at 100%.

Nice thing about the Tractor Supply group 31 batteries is the height – no longer a need for the 2x4 spacers.

So this is what I got:
Exide Heavy Duty Farm Battery, HP31E
SKU 0470904
Vehicle Battery | Brand : Exide | Type : Lead Acid | BCI Group Size : 31 | Cold Cranking Amps : 925 | Cranking Amps : 1050 | Terminal Type : SAE | Terminal Voltage : 12 Volt | Product Width : 6-13/16 in. | Product Length : 13 in.


So, happy battery shopping to all!
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Virginia
Strangely, the truck started when cold (overnight), but not when warm after being parked for an hour. Charging them overnight resulted in only slight improvement.

That might indicate a starter on its way out.



Why worry about returning them? Optima batteries either work great, or they have a shorted cell and won’t hold a charge. Twice I have bought them (for other applications) and have had shorted cells.

I have been reading this on several car forums. Sounds like their quality control hit the skids when they were bought out a few years ago. People who bought before that time rave about how great they are. People who bought after.... not so much.


Nice thing about the Tractor Supply group 31 batteries is the height – no longer a need for the 2x4 spacers.

Yep. That's what I have. It's a drop in fit to the existing tray and hold-down. No problem! :beer:
 

amgeneral72

Active member
487
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Location
HOLLY SPRINGS GA
I have the group 31 Exide batteries from TS in all my stuff. I have over cooked them and let them go dead and they wont quit. My old Interstate batteries wouldn't take the abuse that Iv given the Exide's. And our shop was a interstate dealer.
 

trooper632

Member
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18
Location
Utopia, TX
Wal-mart batteries have never me, or Sams club Energizer batteries little cheaper and full three year replacement at any Sams or walmart
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Good ole AC/Delco 1111. Never had anything but these. Thats what came in them from new. Keep that genuine GM feeling with genuine GM parts. Take it from Mr Good Wrench. No really they are a direct fit and have given me excellent service. It's an opinion thing again.
 

Drock

New member
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Location
Eatonton GA
Marcus wrote.........I have been reading this on several car forums. Sounds like their quality control hit the skids when they were bought out a few years ago. People who bought before that time rave about how great they are. People who bought after.... not so much.

Yeah I've had a red top that's bin in 2 different vehicles, and is now on it's 11th year of operation.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Portsmouth, NH
I vote for the Tractor Supply Exides...cheap, readily available, and they just work

I've owned a few Optimas and had good luck with them, I've also installed numerous Optimas in friends and customer trucks with bad luck. For the money, I would buy something else. If you need the "Optima" performance I would step up to an Odysey but now you are talking big $$$ with specialty chargers as well.
 

rsh4364

Active member
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greensprings ,ohio
Optima red top are not for diesels with glow plugs or grid heaters, they lack RC.
You are right,I have red tops in my 1009,going on my third winter and 30k miles with them.No problems starting down to -3,If I had to do it again I would get yellowtops.I do rotate them once a year.I have jump started people but so far never needed one.
 

combat jump

Member
143
4
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
Job is done!

exide.jpg
Thanks for the feedback - its always helpful to see what others have done and found success (or not). The extra cables attached here are for the HF winch, 2m ham radio, and solargizer. The truck fires to life faster than it ever has! I am very satisfied the my Tractor Supply find.
 

TexAndy

Active member
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Location
Bee County, Texas
I'll echo the sentiments on the used interstate series 31s.

They're cheap (45 bucks) AND come with a 1 year warranty. At least from the place on Chule street in San Antonio. I've got those on one of my 5 tons, one of my deuces, and on my 10099.
 

cucvrus

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And let me guess again. The ballasts on the fire wall have been bypassed or eliminated? Happens everytime. Everytime you start the truck with the ballast by passed it is pulling the power for the glow plugs from the front battery only. I know I am not wrong I have several trucks under my care and see it on the same trucks every 2 years. Most of these guys are listeniing to me and we have been putting the ballasts back in place. I like the glow start and the glow plugs cycling after the start. I read the TM. And the CUCV Electric bible on the glow plug system. And I live by it. It works. This is my experienced opinion on this. I use Delco Remy 1111 batteries. Little if any issues.
 

patracy

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And let me guess again. The ballasts on the fire wall have been bypassed or eliminated? Happens everytime. Everytime you start the truck with the ballast by passed it is pulling the power for the glow plugs from the front battery only. I know I am not wrong I have several trucks under my care and see it on the same trucks every 2 years. Most of these guys are listeniing to me and we have been putting the ballasts back in place. I like the glow start and the glow plugs cycling after the start. I read the TM. And the CUCV Electric bible on the glow plug system. And I live by it. It works. This is my experienced opinion on this. I use Delco Remy 1111 batteries. Little if any issues.
Personally, I'd rather replace a battery more frequently than I had endure a cascade glow plug failure. Mine is bypassed and I've not had any battery issues. It could also be the fact that the first battery gets worked the hardest in a CUCV since the second is only used for starting really.
 

cucvrus

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OK like I said that is my experience. I never have any of these problems that you speak of with everything the way it came out of the box. I never heard of a cascade ( a large number of things that happen quickly in a series) glow plug failure. I have had glow plugs fail. I just change them as needed. What are you referring to? I still believe the engine starts and runs better with the glow plugs cycling as designed.
 

patracy

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OK like I said that is my experience. I never have any of these problems that you speak of with everything the way it came out of the box. I never heard of a cascade ( a large number of things that happen quickly in a series) glow plug failure. I have had glow plugs fail. I just change them as needed. What are you referring to? I still believe the engine starts and runs better with the glow plugs cycling as designed.
Do a search on "cascade failure". It's pretty basic electronics 101. The bank is a resistor bank on the firewall. The input side is 24V. It reduces the voltage seen by the glow plugs based on resistance. When one GP fails, resistance is reduced on the output side of the bank. This causes voltage to increase to the other 7 plugs. Which in turn can accelerate their failure. (Say instead of 14V, the remaining 7 plugs are now seeing 15V. That leads the next weakest plug to fail. You're down to 6 plugs and now voltage is at 16V. Which pushes the next plug to fail. Cascade effect) However, the best way to sort all this would be to switch to non swelling/internally regulated glow plugs and use the resistor bank.
 
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