Rigid fuel line from pump to Filter

[AECS]

I had to replace the lift pump yesterday, and it was so corroded from years of service that the nut was seized, took 2 hours of break free, vice grips, and a hammer to get it off. I boogered up the nit pretty good, and while I was able to get it back on with no leaks, I would like to replace it sooner rather than later.

The problem is I can not find a source for one. I have done at least 10 searches of this site, and a couple at the CK5 site too, but cant find anything.

I found the PN in the -P, but Napa, Auto Zone, and Orielys don't have it. LMC has nothing either. Does anyone here know a source for it, or do I need to have it custom bent? I have access to a tubing shop that will do it for me, but I have no idea what the specs are for the nut.


Thanks in advance.

 

[doghead]

What is the nsn#?

 

[doghead]

The nut should be a standard flare(inverted) nut.

 

[doghead]

From the -34P, the part number for the nut is; 411FS-6 INVERTED NUT,TUBE C.

A simple google search for that finds many many results similar to this; http://www.grainger.com/product/PARKER-Steel-Nut-6JLJ7

 

[gimpyrobb]

Class is in session!

 

[doghead]

It's simply a 3/8" inverted flare nut, commonly used on brake lines.

 

[Recovry4x4]

3/8 steel line is available and most parts houses. Just need to bend it up. The black stuff NAPA sells is a premium grade and bends nicer than the Walmart stuff from Advance Auto.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The cupro-nickel stuff is much better than steel. Bends easily, and it's more resistant to corrosion than stainless. You can find it under several brand names.

http://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/brake-tube/brake.html

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performa...pp-Nickel-Copper-Brake-Lines/2111534/10002/-1

http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/copper-nickel-brake-line

 

[rsh4364]

Going electric would have been much easier and less aggravating,and easy to run all new rubber fuel line eliminating a chance of sucking air from nearly 30 year old hard lines.

 

[AECS]

Thanks dog head. Didn't see the info on the nut. The airframe shop can make me a perfect copy with aircraft grade stock...

 

[cucvrus]

Here it comes. My opinion again. If its not broke (leaking) why replace it. And do not convert it to electric. Why would you? I say if it ain't broke don't fix it. And keep it stock. I have changed several of these back to stock pumps from electric. That is my opinion and I have years of experience driving and owning these things.

 

[Gripy]

When ihad to replace my lift pump. The nut at the pump rounded off. So I found a fitting for the pump, cut the steel line and rand a few inches of rubber fuel line from the pump to the steel line.

 

[corelokt]

I prefer the electric. press ure is there when starting for sure, no matter how the truck has sat. That dark green, soft metal line is sweet to use.

 

[rsh4364]

Going electric would have been much easier and less aggravating,and easy to run all new rubber fuel line eliminating a chance of sucking air from nearly 30 year old hard lines.

I had no business butting into this thread and apologize for doing so,lets not turn it into a mech./elect. debate,my fault..

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

That dark green, soft metal line is sweet to use.

That would be the cupro-nickel. Nice stuff.

 

[acesneights1]

Use pushlok. Way better. No leaks ano problems and available from any hydraulic hose shop.

 

[doghead]

Way to hijack the thread.

The question at hand was answered.

Start your own threads to state your opinions on other topics.