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Schutt Industries 1CSL0-SLC-T-1000 Self Loading Trailer

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Yes Brian you welcome, I wish everyone would chime in if they do
a repair, giving us a how to. It could really be a life saver if you are
out on the road and have a break down, get well soon.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I was RIGHT.

I pulled my caliper bolts and found them rusted as I said and the actual surface
of the shoulder part of the bolts had a poor / substandard machined
finish, you can see machining grooves for cryin' out loud! I got all
new bolts and the new caliper bolts are smoother than James
Bond at the Playboy Mansion. They are like glass...CHROME.

So after you get new bolts you will want new Anti-Rattle Springs
an install tool and O-Rings.

1- Installation Tool P/N 071-182-00
40- "O" Rings P/N 010-062-00
8- Anti-Rattle Spring P/N 046-105-00

TRUST me when I tell you that Nicks truck parts is
Wayyyyyy cheaper than ANYWHERE else.

Total $31.49 plus shipping for the 49 parts I list above.

Send an email to Sandy Schneider <sandy@nickstruckparts.com>
and ask for the above parts, if you request a PP invoice she
will do the deed.

You guys owe mw BIG TIME! :) but really, you NEED to address this issue guys.


OH! You will want 8 new Caliper bolts. Sandy was cheapest there too.
She said 007-186-00 is $ 15.50 for TWO BOLTS. You will need 4
of that part number then to get 8 Bolts. I fell into bolts elsewhere
so I did not buy bolts from Sandy but she said that part number
is for TWO BOLTS and that is the cheapest you will find them
on this planet, TRUST ME.


PS, your brake pads are like new. I pulled the pads and hit the steel portions
w/ my glass bead blaster and purchased some VHT Caliper paint. I taped
off all surfaces of the pad and gave them a squirt w/ VHT Black paint.
I believe I will squirt the calipers too for good measure.

Now I need to acquire GREASE. I am looking real hard at Kendall L-427 .
I read Dexter Axle Grease specs and it is approved.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
Kendall grease it is.

It is recommended by DEXTER and I see it has
other qualities that are similar if not superior to GAA grease and I
might just go w/ it for the long haul unless someone tells me it
is NOT ok for M939 and M915 series trucks. It is certainly A-OK
and recommended for Dexter Disc Brake Hubs.

I wanted 1 pound containers and the cheapest I could find that
was here;


Lance Skovsgard
Santex Corporation
Ofc: (772) 360-4117 Ext. 101
Fax:(772) 882-3057
Cell:(305) 772-1485

Lance Skovsgard

Please tell the man I sent you. Case of 12- 1 Pound cans for $43.40 +ride.
Other volumes as well.


I got my O-Rings, Anti-rattle springs and Install tool today from Nicks.


Guys your caliper bolts might be OK, so far two of mine were not
and the difference between GOOD Chrome Caliper bolts and
the bad ones are HUGE. Be Forewarned.

Tired of getting burned picking up metal parts off the ground.
I do NOT remember it being like this in decades past, I do NOT
remember for months on end tools being so hot in the sun
you HAVE to have a bucket of water to cool them and chill
the hands.

I do remember maybe a couple three weeks during the height
of summer where tools get so blazing hot you need gloves or
water but NOT months on end...I still say the sun is getting
closer or more intense and they are not telling us about it.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I tore down one wheel all the way till all's I had
was a spindle. The one seal on the inside is a Unitized
Seal that spins, it is a TCM OIL SEAL OB3145059.

If you look in the Dexter catalog it calls for a 010-056-00 .

So I ordered the 010-056-00 and they seem like a MUCH LOWER
quality then the TCM. The TCM has tiny holes to allow grease / oil
to lube the part that spins and these 010-056-00 units I can BARELY
make them turn by hand! I mean it is TOUGH!

The 010-056-00 need Permatex or Aviation Form a Gasket to seat them
and the TCM OIL SEAL OB3145059 uses just a little grease w/ rubber outside
edges.


Any input? I think I want to trash these Mexico made 010-056-00 and just
reinstall my TCM that popped out in perfect shape, but I wanted to replace just-because.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I ended up w/ two sets of seals, make a fair offer if you want a set of seals,
they were dropped shipped to me direct from Dexter so they are new, not NOS.

I have 4- 010-056-00 seals, make offer.
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I used my trailer for the first time. it was not exactly fun because this
container I believe was not built to ISO specs. the corners look ISO
but the metal is only about .125" thick so the black guides were sloppy.
I have a resolve for this, I am going to get a piece of 2.5" Sch 40 steel
pipe and it will slide into the round holes on the black guides and
help keep things plumb. 550 miles out and back to get this, trailer pulls
nice behind an M916. Up and down hills at 55. Well Cajone Pass I was
down to 53 outbound.

can-trailer.jpg
 

painter paul

Member
181
1
18
Location
Fairbury, Ne
I put new batteries in my trailer (the originals would start it on a warm day unbelievably so) and did some thinking. Since the motor only has one speed(2500rpm??), I see why they engineered it to start only after the oil pressure is up. This way the motor has good oil pressure and doesn't have to idle to protect itself til the oil pressure is up. Also explains why mine wouldn't start on a colder day. It would crank too slowly with the old batteries and probably didn't build enough oil pressure to start. Of course a diesel needs over 800 rpms or so to start anyway(to build enough cylinder heat to burn the fuel)! I want to get my trailer ready to carry my M114 to the Topeka Ks show in June. Now to tear into the brakes and find out why one side was dragging the last time I towed it!! Thanks, Paul
 

Artisan

Well-known member
2,762
227
63
Location
CDA Idaho
I think I did a write up about the brakes, the chrome plated caliper
sliding mounting pins are all rusted, they need to be replaced so
the calipers slide correctly.

After what I have seen each corner needs to be torn down to the
shaft and many parts replaced and bearings serviced.

These trailers were FLOODED from what I understand and from what
evidence has suggested...

Keep us posted!
 

Crazy

New member
10
0
0
Location
SF, CA
I have never seen one of these trailers. Do they come up for sale often. I just saw one on fleabay. I am in the process of having a container trailer built.
 

painter paul

Member
181
1
18
Location
Fairbury, Ne
They probably won't be cheap either, they sold for around 10k in new but flooded condition ( of course they knew that but washed them and never told us). They had mud in the starters and wouldn't run but other than that and the rusty caliper bolts ,bad batteries they were never used. They cost over $70k new to the govt.
 

Crazy

New member
10
0
0
Location
SF, CA
I don't think I would take less than $25K for mine.
It is AWSOME!
Thanks for the replies. It looked cool so I thought I'd ask. The one on fleabay is $20k. For $25k, I could have one copied that I could take to bed with me. Not saying it's not worth it, just not to me. I would need a Class A to haul that in my state anyways.
 
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