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Slow Cranking

gbooth

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Location
Heartland,
I have noticed that the last few times I have started the truck that it turns over real slow Always started and after you worm it up for the rest of the day it starts fine it acts like week battery's. They were new back in the summer. It cranked over fine right after I installed the motor It has been cold here but before I replace the starter I thought I would do a load test on the battery's. I know that you can get a bad battery even if they are new a bad. A battery that will rear its Ugly head anytime down the road. I am running 10W 30 Rotel with a gallon of Lucas Oil treatment. Any other Thoughts?

Thanks Greg
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight, including the jumper between the batteries.
If you run down the batteries and have bad connections you may be on your way to lose your regulator/alternator. Loose connections while charging at a high rate will cause "load dump" transients, which will kill your regulator (alternator).
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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I've found that my batteries run down a bit if I make lots of short hops to the grocery and such. Once a week or so I try to get it out on an hour ride or so, maybe a trip up the highway at speed. That helps a bunch in my case.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
If all else fails, get a Chargetek 500, dual battery maintainer. It keeps the batteries within millivolts of each other and warms them a bit in the process, which is perfect for cold weather.
Only drawback is that you'll need a 120VAC supply.
Had mine for a couple of years, always plugged in when the deuce wasn't used, a lightning storm got it last summer, but it will get replaced.
Got a battery heating pad from polverone (Gary) and use it now to keep the batts happy. :)
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,117
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Location
Dexter, MI
My truck came with a solar panel system on the cowl that keeps the batteries charged. Seems to work well since the truck started after sitting who knows how long at DRMO. I only need to remember to scape the snow off it.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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GA Mountains
That would be the Solargizer. Like an idiot, I had 2 new ones I got for a song and sold them both. Wish I still had them. There is a surplus place that sells 12V ones for $20 each. Need 2 for the deuce. MAybe someday!
 

ktm380

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Pueblo West, CO
I have been bidding on them but don't feel like paying an arm or a leg for it.
How strong are they? I don't like the idea of hail hitting it.
 

gbooth

New member
329
12
0
Location
Heartland,
Slow cranking

Wednesday Night hooked both of my Volt meters up 1 on each battery, set them in the seat climbed in and hit the starter button. Back battery dropped down to around 10 volts Front battery dropped down to 2 volts then in to negative numbers. Took front battery back to battery store did a hygrometer test # 2 cell bad. Giving a new battery Installed last night Truck cranks fine with a lot of RPM during cranking. Problem solved Truck saved. :D
 

ida34

Well-known member
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Location
Dexter, MI
I was thinking of cutting two pieces of plexiglass. One to frame out the solar panel and another to attach to the top of the cut out piece to protect the panel.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,117
30
48
Location
Dexter, MI
I have to measure to see what thickness we are talking about. The plyglass method could be done with local hardware store plex. I don't know where to get the thick glass locally but it is worth a try.
 
Chuck,
Look in the yellow pages under plastics. You should find a plexiglass retailer in there.
If not and you need a hunk o' thick stuff let me know. I have a supply house about 15 minutes from me. Give me dimensions and I'll get you a price. Does't weigh squat so shipping should be minimal.
 

DrFoster

New member
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Location
Cheyenne, WY & Condado, PR
Why thick glass? Any size over 1/8" will take a hail-ball with olympic strength. Cut a sheet to cover the panels, lay it over the top, seal it around the edges with a flexible sealant. Plexiglass is notorious for "crazing" so in about 5 years, it will have to be replaced anyhow. Sooner if you have giant hot-cold spreads and/or high altitude like here in denver. When it comes time, use a razor, slit the old sealant, and pop in the new one.

Seriously, that should be less than $5.00 in all.

A more elaborate setup is to go to the local glass shop and purchase a piece of safety glass. Put some silica gel in a pocket inbetween the cells and the glass panel to absorb seasonal moisture off to an edge, and seal down with flexible adhesive or bracket it with weatherstripping.

I personally don't think that milling (spending the time and expense) a protective layer for a photo cell that is already quite durable is worth it. That's my opinion. Aircraft windscreens, like ours, is only 1/8 - 3/16 inch plexiglass, and we took a bird strike in the traffic pattern at over 130 mph, withstood a golf-ball hail storm at Centennial Airport, where the skin was dented (and subsequently replaced by insurance) but the windows were fine.
 
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