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Spin on fliters... time to do some trading!!

devilman96

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I was reading a post yesterday regarding spin on oil filters and decided I need to quit being lazy and convert everything to spin on...

What I need are spare filter assemblies to play with... Its easy enough to use my own to a point but I would like to have a spare set OFF of the vehicle which would save a lot of up, down, back, fourth, size, fit, bolt, unbolt, etc...

The oil filter bases just need a adapter made to accept a spin on... I think I can use the current base by turning it down and threading it. (see pic) If so I could proably make this part as an exchange thing. I send you a threaded set you send me your old ones.

The fuel bases are a little more complicated, ether I need to make several parts to plug up the top and give a thread, build an adapter base, or modify the originals by plugging and tigging up the tops base holes and also doing an exchange deal.... Im still undecided what would be better both in quality and quantity...

Having the bases off I can also hydraulically pressure test them to make sure the parts exceed the filter gaskets and bodies.

If anyone is parting out a truck or has a blown engine I would like to ether buy the parts from you or work out a trade in exchange.

The trade would be this... I build them, you run them under the basis of the idea being EXPERIMENTAL until I, you, or we rack up enough miles to feel the end results are safe, surefire and problem free. The last thing I want is to come up with something defective and cost someone an engine.
 

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G744

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Keep in mind you can go on in the event of filter plugging with an empty cannister, not with a spin on.

Cannister filters are cheaper.

You can burn them in a barrel to almost nothing, whreas a spin on goes into a landfill (usually illegally) forever and soaks into the aquifer.

Spin ons are the lazy way, in my opinion.

dg
 

JasonS

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I am assuming that the multfuel has full flow oil filtering... Most Ford and chrysler spin on oil filters have a bypass valve to allow oil to be diverted around the filter due to either the filter plugging or the oil being too cold (GM has 'em in the block). This is VERY important. Another good idea would be an anti-drain back valve to keep the oil in the filters from draining back into the pan. This too, is built into the spin on oil filter... I'd be really surprised if there wasn't already a bypass valve some where in the multifuel's oil filter.
 

jatonka

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I am making the spin on adaptors for the fuel filters at the present time. They work with your existing filter base and use a readily available commercial spin on filter. The primary one is a water separator also. We have been using them for most of a year in upstate NY and haven't had any trouble. They are for sale. John T
 

MATT

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I covert all of our trucks to a spin on primary fuel filter. If anyone is interested I have some pics.
 

wallew

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Matt,
Send the pix to me and I'll resize them - turn around will be a day or so.

Yes Richard, I got yours but was WAY busy with the super single swap today. You should see the pix no later than tomorrow. I'm whupped and am going to bed pretty soon.

Tomorrow will dawn and I'll get right on those pix. AND I use Adobe Photoshop6. I only upgrade every second edition.

jim
 

MATT

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I will get part numbers on Monday if you are interested. It is a napa filter adapter. Drill holes for adapter to mount on the bracket and the fuel line fittings screw right in as i remember.
 

devilman96

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That's a Napa 4309 Base and ether a 3123 or 3418 filter... Both will work the second is just larger... Im talking about doing everything with the original bases, not just add ones.

Most filters have anti drain back and bypass... It depends on the part number and what the filter is specified for. In MOST applications there are both types available. I would be shooting for anti drain back and I believe the mount is bypassing already...
 

m35a2cowner

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Measurements

Hello all, I did some measuring of the spin on base for you. First let me say that the measurements are rough (caliper pictured not exact). Next notice the base is different from a canister base. I looked at a spare engine I had and I think adapter base could be made by someone whose skills in the machine shop far exceed mine. Also, sorry the pictures are a bit washed out by the flash. Lastly, thanks again to Jim for resizing the pictures. I hope this provides everyone with the information they need. Incase the picture filenames are to long the pipe is 7/8ths, The inner measurement is 2 - 1/4, and the outside measurment is 3 - 5/16ths.
 

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wallew

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If you want to use the current oil filter bases, then go to SATURN Surplus and get a full cannister set for $22 (plus s&h). That gives you the inner threaded 7/8th inch pipe. It is already threaded on the bottom for 14 TPI.

All you need to do is continue the threading up the tube until you have what you feel is enough threaded tubing to use for TWO inserts.

You can cut the thread with a die from :

http://www.e-taps.com/ofertapage 220.htm

Scroll down to the '7/8" - 14 UNF' die - it's $34.00 and I intend to purchase one here shortly, and the correct die handle. I already have the Saturn Surplus' Cannister replacement so I already have a spare post that I can mangle.

Hope that helps

jim

PS - HEY MATT, where in CO are you? We are considering throwing an MV type party and anyone can come. But we figure that we mainly see Co residents j
 

wallew

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rmgill said:
So what's the problem with the standard filters? I just changed mine no problem.
Basicallly I'm lazy. The spin on replacement is ONE piece. The cannister oil filter system is :

Cannister
Filter
Threaded hold down middle post
Spring
Metal shim
Two gaskets

So, you can have ONE part or seven. And God forbid you ever have a gasket start leaking, like I do, cause then you will be removing the whole assemble just to replace the gasket. Yeah, they don't cost that much, but it is still more work than spinning one off and spinning the replacement on. And the spin on filters aren't that much. I'll edit this once I order mine.

Did I mention I'm lazy?

jim
 

ah1955

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spin on filters

The fleet truck shop I work at uses Baldwin filters so when I got my deuce I started checking Baldwin by crossing the N.A.P.A numbers listed on post here which said the Baldwin was a better fit for fuel filters (good for me stocking customer price for all three was $10.00)
Back to oil filters Baldwin cataloge crosses a N.A.P.A. 1133 to a P20HD and under that listing shows to convert to spin on use Baldwin OB1303 and B95 spin on filter.
Don,t know if this will work for our appllacation or not. If anyone knows please correct me
 

wallew

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Rather than reposting this info twice, go to this thread that is currently in 'The Deuce' section...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=4672&postdays=0&postorder=asc

The basic problem is I can't seem to find an oil filter whose ID is basically 1" 14 for the spin on part. I ordered a 7/8" 14 UNF die. I am going to return it and purchase a 1" 14 UNF, which appears to NOT exist. OR have to turn down the 1" OD pipe to 7/8". Still 14 TPI. The Napa oil filter that IS 7/8" is 16 TPI and it's number is 1458, which I ordered.

When I went to NAPA and attempted to thread what I THOUGHT was a 7/8" 14 it would NOT fit at all. I am dealing with it the best I can. I WILL try and find the answer. If you can come up with an oil filter that has a 1" 14 TPI, let me know.

jim
 

devilman96

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There is only one filter made that is a 1-14 PN 7103 and it is NOT a oil filter... Its rated for Hyd and Trans applications. A threaded stud / tube is not the answer to this (sorry)... I have looked high and low to try and find a filter that would allow the correct gasket sizes with a thread size that would work with a threaded bushing like you are talking about... It simply does not exist... An adapter plate has to be made due to gasketing sizes and a tube dimensions... You need a lathe, a 6" dia piece of aluminum round and a adapter bushing as your speaking of. Next time you go into Napa ask them to look up a PN 4067 filter adapter kit and you will see exactly what I am talking about. This kit was made for Cummings engines which used the same filter as the LDT does in order to change over to spin on's like were looking for.

Even if you could get a filter with the correct OD gasket size (a few are close) you have to look at filter size, micron size, capacity and so on long before thread sizes... Just because it screws on there doesn't mean its a good idea... Being that the LDT and LDS have full flow filters and no bypass you need a filter large enough to handle the engines flow properly. My suggestion would be to use a NAPA 1970 or even better a NAPA 1970XE and again, even better a 1970XD all of which are the same filters but with higher and higher ratings. The XD's are the way to go and have a 40,000 mile rating, using these and synthetic oil your next oil change would be due in about the year 2020...All use a 1.5-12 thread and are used with the kit I mentioned above...You MAY be able to buy the kit and adapt the base plate to a LDT by having a bushing machined for the correct thread sizes.

I plan on doing this at some point but am to far under at the moment...
 

wallew

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Dman,
Thx for the input. I hate to say it, but it IS begining to look like you are correct.

The Napa filter #1458 does actually fit and function properly. BUT you have to have a threaded adapter that will DEFINATELY have to be turned on a lathe down to 7/8" 16. Randy and I were discussing this last night. WE MAY have a guy who can do this.

I could do it myself, but I curretly don't have access to a lathe. Well, I do but it would use up my last favor with a buddy of mine and I REALLY don't want to spend it on this project.

jim

PS - OK I just had a REALLY ODD thought. Instead of modifying the oil filter base, how about just rethreading the spin on filter? Stupid idea probably.
 
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