Springs vs. Blocks

[CROM]

I have the option of either getting a 4" lift with full springs, or a 4" lift with front springs and rear blocks. What do you guys think?

The full spring lift is used, as are the shocks that come with it; but both are in good shape. I'd buy a new steering arm.

The spring/block combo is all new and has shocks, u-bolts and the steering arm.

Both are about $300.

Input appreciated!

 

[maddawg308]

Full springs, hands down. Blocks are okay for 1-2" lift, but on a 4" lift or more on any 4x4, I'd be hesitant. Springs are a much safer way to go.

 

[Westech]

 

[Matt65]

Budget minded lift on 4" blocks here for the firewood hauler. For offroading, go with the springs. Mine rarely sees that and I wanted to keep my stock springs for cargo.

 

[197thhhc]

Blocks are ok but I would take used springs over new blocks anyday. You may have axlewrap issues with the blocks if you offroad the truck.

 

[japickar]

IMO a shackle flip is the best lift option for the rear.

 

[ODdave]

for what its worth,
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/70183-lift-kit-heads-up.html

 

[CROM]

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. That was sort of what I figured, but I've never lifted a CUCV before. As far as the axle wrap, could this stock 6.2 really cause it? I'm not against bracing the axle, but from what I've heard, it shouldn't be a problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, the springs are 1/2 ton. I'm assuming the truck will actually only be lifted 3.5''-ish due to it's extra weight....make sense?

 

[still standing still cyco]

Japickar got it right, just what i was going to say before seeing his post... you keep your same hauling ability, same ride, no worries about spitting out a lift block at the wrong time(is there ever a right time?) and way cheaper than springs...

 

[1984M1009]

IMO a shackle flip is the best lift option for the rear.

xx 2

 

[deuce_09]

I believe ruffstuffspecialties sells a shackle reversal for the rear. It looks pretty beef and you still get to use your stock rear springs. Idk about you but I'd like to keep my 1 1/4 springs for towing. Just my .02

 

[bigjmcconnell]

Also, the springs are 1/2 ton. I'm assuming the truck will actually only be lifted 3.5''-ish due to it's extra weight....make sense?

1/2 ton springs would be a deal killer for me. I vote for the all spring option, but not if it means you only get 1/2 ton springs. Also, aren't the 1/2 ton rear springs shorter in length?

 

[ODdave]

Lots of added stress on the rear frame rails by doing the flip though. Not as stable as well.........

 

[TCUCV]

I have the option of either getting a 4" lift with full springs, or a 4" lift with front springs and rear blocks. What do you guys think?

The full spring lift is used, as are the shocks that come with it; but both are in good shape. I'd buy a new steering arm.

The spring/block combo is all new and has shocks, u-bolts and the steering arm.

Both are about $300.

Input appreciated!

With the full spring lift only being 1/2 ton, don't put anything 1/2 on your CUCV. Go with the new springs up front(if they are minimum 3/4 ton) and just buy a shackle flip kit or just buy new springs for the rear. What ever you do, don't put blocks in the rear!!! What's an extra $100-$200 worth to you when your stuck on a trail and then have to spend that $100-$200 for a tow. Just my $.02 . . . Good luck on your decision

 

[TCUCV]

Lots of added stress on the rear frame rails by doing the flip though. Not as stable as well.........

Never heard this one???? Where are you hearing that?

Not trying to be a jerk, but a little confused

 

[ODdave]

Never heard this one???? Where are you hearing that?

Not trying to be a jerk, but a little confused

Look at it. I will explain more when I am not typing from a phone. You guys bash blocks like there the devil...... you do realize that MANY factory trucks come with them right? I'm not saying that there the best thing but if installed correct you are not going to "spit" them.

 

[wkbrdngsnw]

Lots of added stress on the rear frame rails by doing the flip though. Not as stable as well.........

Well the shackle is 2 force body so the force direction is alined with the bolt holes, no change there, and the truck still weigh the same.

I made my own flip and it barely changed the angle just upside down. There is an issue of the shackles buckling if you use the factory ones since they are now in compression but most people replace them anyway. I just boxed the shackle and its withstood towing 6000 lb and my driving.

As for stability it is still transferring the same side loading as it would stock so the part should be equally as stiff, especially if it is the same length shackle. There is a sort of softer roll feeling in the rear since it can now travel better and moves the roll center slightly but its a lifted truck and I don't think your going to be trying to turn it hard enough to notice. A sway-bar in the front is a good idea though and since its being lifted and needs extended links some disconnects work good so it can still flex off-road.

Does usually need shims or the perches rotated to keep pinon angle in check.

 

[deuceaid]

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. That was sort of what I figured, but I've never lifted a CUCV before. As far as the axle wrap, could this stock 6.2 really cause it? I'm not against bracing the axle, but from what I've heard, it shouldn't be a problem. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, the springs are 1/2 ton. I'm assuming the truck will actually only be lifted 3.5''-ish due to it's extra weight....make sense?

The previous owner did blocks on my 20r 4cyl toyota truck, axle wrap can happen once geared down in the t case. when offroad climbing it can give that small but sudden lurch as the axle unwraps from being loaded , I wont say there the devil, but you can do better.

 

[still standing still cyco]

I wasnt saying "spitting a block" is a common thing, just saying why risk it when there are better options for similar price. and i have seen it happen before tho, usually it is due to a block failure, i.e. cracking, or even shattering into multiple pieces. and your right, alot of factory trucks came with blocks, which are fine. problem is alot of people are to cheap, or just dont care or know better, and stack blocks in an unsafe way, instead of getting a block that is the factory heighth added to the desired lift height all in one block. add in u-bolts not properly installed/torqued, and you have a possible problem... its like squeezing a big sandwich, and the tomato slice shoots out... just giving suggestions. not writing it as absolute, or a rule of life...

 

[ODdave]

Well the shackle is 2 force body so the force direction is alined with the bolt holes, no change there, and the truck still weigh the same.

I made my own flip and it barely changed the angle just upside down. There is an issue of the shackles buckling if you use the factory ones since they are now in compression but most people replace them anyway. I just boxed the shackle and its withstood towing 6000 lb and my driving.

As for stability it is still transferring the same side loading as it would stock so the part should be equally as stiff, especially if it is the same length shackle. There is a sort of softer roll feeling in the rear since it can now travel better and moves the roll center slightly but its a lifted truck and I don't think your going to be trying to turn it hard enough to notice. A sway-bar in the front is a good idea though and since its being lifted and needs extended links some disconnects work good so it can still flex off-road.

Does usually need shims or the perches rotated to keep pinon angle in check.

Distance from spring eye to frame is greatly increased therefore the clamping load of the fasteners is stressed more do to the leverage increase when there is a sideways load I.e. turns.

Think about a lugnut, 3in wrench vs 3 foot wrench, which one requires less effort to break the bolt loose?