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Starter relay got stuck

84cucv1ton

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So after reading more about the fusible link. I took that wire out. Didn't put power to. Trying to find a fuse locally. Little while Going to Pull starter out. This is really frustrating. I don't have the time for this right now. Now I have to rent truck and spend more money. What a pain this is turning out to be
 
Why would you want to limit how much current is available to the starter, how does anyone know how much current a given engine needs to do its job from one day to the next, or if the tempature drops the starter may need 20% more current than it did a few days ago or a month ago I say this as I work in a auto electric rebuilder shop and I asked my boss why this fuse would be prudent to install and he said dont do it as it will limit cuŕrent and that is not advisable. Sex with a stranger does not equate as a metaphor to the issue at hand. A fuse in the circuits that control the starter but not on the 2/0 wire that supplies power to the solonoid.
I have 450amp fuses PM me if you like one. They come with their own fuse block . Made for high amperage applications especially for wiring to starter . They handle up to 32v safely and over 500 ampsView attachment 541704View attachment 541708View attachment 541706View attachment 541707
 
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doghead

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My comment was in reply to,
Good afternoon, if I cut out fusible link and replace it with a piece a wire for now am I asking for trouble?
Not about the fuse he does not need, but someone keeps offering for sale in multiple threads.
 

roveroverme

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My comment was in reply to,

Not about the fuse he does not need, but someone keeps offering for sale in multiple threads.
if you are referring to me , you need to show me where it said that I am offering anything for sale.
I would like to post to the classifieds , but for some reason I am not able to, even though you have my money.
 

doghead

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I have not received any money from you.
 
roveroverme : the question about the fuse was addressed to anyone that cared to answer it but it was mostly addressed to you as you seemed to be the one attempting to sell said item.

Im wondering why ?

Doghead: my 30.00 was sent via snail mail in the form of a usps money order a few days ago and I would request it be applied on 03 01 2015 thanks.
 

doghead

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Nope, used 'em all up last summer at the beach.
 

patracy

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if you are referring to me , you need to show me where it said that I am offering anything for sale.
I would like to post to the classifieds , but for some reason I am not able to, even though you have my money.
Your account is able to post to the classifieds. It takes a few minutes for things to process since it's a batch job for subscriptions.
 

84cucv1ton

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Can someone give me an idea what kind of fuse I need for this? How many volts and how many amps? There is a Napa and a few other stores near me. I had a car accident this morning and now my other pickup truck is down. My front a smashed up pretty good. I have no vehicle and I start my new job Monday morning. So I hope in the next few days get this truck running.
 

Warthog

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From the Fusible Link 101 sticky

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?122571-Fusible-Links-101

Here is a list of the CUCV Fusible Links taken from the Tech Manual TM 9-2320-289-34

Diagram - Wire Label - Location - Use - Size

Diagram E-1 - 1 RED-2Z - 24v POS Terminal Board - 24v to the Starter relay - 16ga
Diagram E-1 - 3 BLU-2B - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v feed from batteries- 12ga - supplies 12v to entire system

Diagram E-3 - 1 RED-2R - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v to ignition switch - 16ga
Diagram E-3 - 1 RED-2F - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v to headlight fuse - 16ga

Diagram E-7 - 3 BLU-2A - 24v POS Terminal Board - 24v to the Glowplug Resistor - 12ga
Diagram E-7 - .5 ORG-503B - Glow Plug Relay - 12v sense wire to GP Controller - 20ga
Diagram E-7 - .8 GRN-509(E-H) - Glowplugs - 18ga
Diagram E-7 - .8 GRN-503(E-H) - Glowplugs - 18ga

Diagram E-9 - .5 ORN-2K - 24v POS Term BD - 24v to GEN2 exciter circuit - 20ga
Diagram E-9 - 3 BLU-2L - 24v POS Term BD - 24v to GEN2 positive terminal - 12ga
Diagram E-9 - 3 BLU-2B - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v feed from batteries - 12ga - relisting
Diagram E-9 - 3 BLU-2H - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v feed to GEN2 negative terminal - 12ga - This is where the "Isolated Ground" comes into play
Diagram E-9 - 3 BLU-2M - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v feed to GEN1 Positive Terminal - 12ga
Diagram E-9 - .5 ONG-2P - 12v ENG WRG Harness Block - 12v feed to the GEN1 excitor circuit - 20 ga

Diagram E-11 - 1 RED-101A - 24v POS Terninal BD - 24v to the Diagnostic port - 16ga
Diagram E-11 - .5 ORG-106A - GEN2 - 24v to the Diagnostic port - 20ga

So to sum it up there are:

Totals

4 - 20ga orange
2 - 18ga green
4 - 16ga red
6 - 12ga blue

Locations

24v POSitive Terminal Block
1 - 20ga orange
2 - 16ga red
2 - 12ga blue

12v Terminal Block
1 - 20ga orange
2 - 16ga red
4 - 12ga blue

Glow Plug Relay
1 - 20ga orange

Glow Plugs
8 - 18ga green

GEN2
1 - 20ga orange

You never know what you will need so stock up before hand and you will be prepared for the worst.
 
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Warthog

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The majority of the time the fusible links the blow when you remove the battery cables for a starter run on are the blue 12ga.

Fusible links and fuses do two similar but different jobs.
 
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84cucv1ton

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Okay thank you for posting that up. I thought they were the same just different way of doing it. I will see if I can find an auto electric place. I have the new relay on the way. Thanks again
 

doghead

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Fusible link wire is often on those red "help" cards from Dorman, or can be bought in short lengths or in bulk at NAPA or Autozone .
 
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