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Starting Four HMMWV engines in the can

superburban

Member
484
5
18
Location
SL,UT
Mine had a lake of oil. I told a student to put some oil dry in there. I didn't watch him though. He had at least 50 pounds of the stuff in the can and looked like he was playing in a sand box working the clean stuff down to the oil. Two shop vac tub fulls later we had a clean can and there was the drain plug. An inch or so toward the out side from directly below the fly wheel. 9/16" square head bolt.
Cool. Thanks!
 

superburban

Member
484
5
18
Location
SL,UT
I got the #1 engine started up. It runs nice and smooth and it has only minimal blowby. I rigged up a glow plug harness. I dont have any 12v glowplugs, so I used my jumper cables to put my two batteries in series to get the glowplugs hot, then I had to hurry and switch them back to parallel to run the starter and the injector pump. Here it is after I started it once before:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D99gclc1R-Y[/media]
I think I'm going to keep the #3 engine for my Blazer and sell the other two. This #1 engine is good to go, but the #4 would be cheap, a good candidate for rebuild.
 
97
9
8
Location
SHENANDOAH PA
thanks guys this gives me some thing to do this weekend. i just got a 6.5 from gl and was wondering if i could start it in the can. i have to do a little homework on the 24v ip but i should be able to figure it out. thanks again, i really mean it.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,176
1,604
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
A few things I have learned that might help others.

If you don't have anything besides an engine hoist to pick up the can, you can't put it on the ground. The hoist legs are in the way. Jack stands at the outter corners of the stand will allow most engine hoist to roll out from underneath. The lid is the same way and I found blocks of wood or jack stands work great with it.

The bottom of the can will fit nice and snug on top of the lid if you want to work on it without bending over.

A engine started in a can sitting on jack stands will not fall over as I was happy to find out this morning. I had the engine hoist hooked up and the chain with just a bit of slack when we fired up a 6.2.

Thought those like me without a fork lift or loader might want to be forwarned about this one fault with the very heavy and usefull engine can.
 
97
9
8
Location
SHENANDOAH PA
I have the can on the floor with the motor on top of it.. Its the perfect height for working on it. i welded the support bracket, and now i am ready to cut the hole for the nose cone of the starter to fit and i don`t think i am too far off from trying to start it.
I want to say it seemed a lot harder to do before i read this thread.
well lunch is over back to work on my 6.5
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,176
1,604
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
As pointed out in this thread, there are two basic ways to use the can for engine running. Cut a hole for the starter or move the rear cross member back. I moved mine back and just put in longer bolts with some nuts as spacers. Either way works great.
 

Attachments

97
9
8
Location
SHENANDOAH PA
All right my 6.5 turns completely around. What a good feeling. I removed the glow plugs and would like to check compression in each cylinder. The threads on the glow plugs are not 1/8" pipe thread. my guess is they are about 10 mm. I could weld a 1/8" x 1/4" on the back side of a glow plug and then drill out the center so I can connect a gauge to check compression. does anybody know of anything else I can put into the glow plug hole so I can connect a gauge? I am really cheap and was planning on using a gauge from a co2 regulator. I was told the compression should be between 390 and 400 psi. so does anybody have a quick fix for a fitting to go from whatever the threads are to any size pipe thread. Once I get to standard pipe thread I can adapt from there. I might as well toss this into this thread instead of the next one. The fuel supply goes into the center of the injector pump right???
 
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