Another Ahab
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What are you figuring for the inside sheathing:
- Regular sheetrock (3/8")?
- Moisture-resistant board?
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Survival 109 build
- Thread starter QUADJEEPER
- Start date
- Regular sheetrock (3/8")?
- Moisture-resistant board?
- 797
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- Winter Springs, FL
I am going to use 4x8 sheets of preprimed underlayment board. It is moisture resistant and real wood, not press board or particle board. First I will be installing a foam strip over all of the inner metal framing, as it transfers a tremendous amount of heat inside. Then a vapor barrier, and then the wall board.
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Great work, Scott! ![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
I can't wait to see your rig up close and personal next month at the Rally! 
I can't wait to see your rig up close and personal next month at the Rally!
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Thanks Mark. Don't look too close though, many flaws!Great work, Scott!
61sleepercab
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I am interested in you GI drywall job and how well the material works on the ceiling/wall radius . I have to get my truck home (400 mile recovery) to see how the insides are in. I am thinking of doing most of my remodel towards the front half of the truck box and leave the center floor space open for hauling. I had a 1 ton Ford van ambulance that I camped in and hauled corn/furniture for others. Keep up the good posts. Mark
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Thanks Mark. The only place the wall/roof radius will be seen is in the bathroom. All of the rest of that area will be cabinets. I am trying to create as much storage as possible, for a sardine can anyway.
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Couple of more pics I didn't get posted yesterday. Street side 110 volt outlet and one on the LF of the grill.
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rustystud
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Electrical work can be the biggest time consuming job on a vehicle. You can replace a engine and transmission in the time it takes to rewire some simple circuits ! I hate doing electrical jobs at work. The boss is always asking "when is it going to be done ?!?!?! " I always say "when I get's done" . The boss hates that ! I also hate electrical troubleshooting. Some guys at work just LOVE it ! They'll spend weeks working on a stupid short. Drives me crazy !!! One guy a few years ago tore a 60ft buss apart from front to back trying to find a "ABS" fault. Turned out to be a screw was loose on the junction panel. It took 3 weeks to put the buss back together !
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Yes, wiring can take some time, but I'm trying to do it right. Grommets in all of the holes, solder all 12 volt connections, using flexible boat cable and no wire nuts on the 110 volt circuits. I do a lot of automotive electrical at work, tends to lead to some pretty simple problems quite often. Bad grounds and connections are very common.
Another Ahab
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Don't think I know the stuff:
- You mean instead of Romex?
And what do you use instead of wire nuts for the 110v connections?
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Boat cable is marine rated Romex. All terminations are at screw retained connections at outlets, switches and at the breaker panel. I installed 16 duplex outlets throughout the truck, so plenty of screw terminations to work with.
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Another Ahab
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Hey QUADJEEPER, excuse me please for all the questions, but I'm not familiar with this stuff (and I always like to learn something new; never know when it's handy):
- The Romex is already shielded from water and weather by the sheath. Wondering what makes it "marine-rated"?
- And those terminal connections you mention, you mean something crimp-on; like these:
tim292stro
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Marine primary wire is in a water/oil/etc. resistant jacket (usually a form of PVC), using fine stranded not solid conductors for vibration resistance to metal fatigue, and the strands are tinned so they don't corrode as easily.
The crimp-on connectors used in marine applications are usually crimp then heat-shrink (with a hot glue built into the inside) - it gives you a darn-near waterproof connection. Using weather-pack type connectors is becoming very popular (submersible/water-proof), and are becoming easier to obtain from common sources.
The crimp-on connectors used in marine applications are usually crimp then heat-shrink (with a hot glue built into the inside) - it gives you a darn-near waterproof connection. Using weather-pack type connectors is becoming very popular (submersible/water-proof), and are becoming easier to obtain from common sources.
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Another Ahab
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VERY cool to know, 292; thank you:
- I always like getting my hardware at a marine store/ ship chandlery when possible (US Marine, West Marine, etc).
- Because 1) they got EVERYTHING, and 2) whatever you get there is typically waterproof/ "bombproof"
I like doing it right the first time, and never having to think about it ever again (sure usually a little more expense, but always cost-effective in the long run).
- I always like getting my hardware at a marine store/ ship chandlery when possible (US Marine, West Marine, etc).
- Because 1) they got EVERYTHING, and 2) whatever you get there is typically waterproof/ "bombproof"
I like doing it right the first time, and never having to think about it ever again (sure usually a little more expense, but always cost-effective in the long run).
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I used those type of connections on the DC circuits, all AC circuits used the screw terminals on the outlets and switches. No wire nuts.
tim292stro
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Using a dielectric grease after finishing the screw-termination will keep the contacts shinny and happy 
oddshot
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Have you considered converting that gasoline engine to dual (propane/gasoline) fuel ... or finding a little diesel engine that will run on a WMO blend?
A gen set is pretty much a boat anchor if it only runs on one fuel ... and you ain't got any more.
If you're talking about survival ... "Two is one, ONE is NONE" ... is a golden rule.
tim292stro
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162tcat
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Marine "romex" is stranded so it will flex often and not break. It's tinned to add to the corrosion resistance and the jacket is oil fuel and heat resistant.
rustystud
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Oddshot, it sounds like you know "Wesley Rawles" ! If so give me a shout out.