• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

The RIGHT way to install a Solargizer...

philjafo

New member
22
0
1
Location
denmark wi
The manufacturer claims a 3X increase in battery life. I can only hope.
http://www.pulsetech.net/productinfo/product_sheets/SolarPulse_Specs.pdf
Dunno what good these things do, back when I was on active duty 2acr 84th eng 1998 to 2004 we pulled all the solergizers off cuz most were cracked and broke anyways. Proper pmcs and maint on the batterys is the best thing you can do. When we railloaded to ntc or even just around the motorpool slave cables were rarely needed usually because some new private left the blackout drive lights on
 

Texas Diesel

New member
41
0
0
Location
Houston
:?:Question on this subject: I just received my Solargizer and will install soon on my M35A2. Wanted to ask, since it comes with a blue-colored housing, if I tape off the solar panel area can the rest of it be spray painted to match the hood of the truck? Without impacting the job that I bought it to do? Thanks!:)
 

rumplecat

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,023
206
63
Location
North West Arkansas
A year or two ago someone on the forum was selling the 24 volt units for $15 to members, no box but everything was there, don't know if they are still around or if they still have them are not?
 

cucv1833

Member
533
4
18
Location
Lake Charles, LA
Just installed my solargizer. Mounted on the hood. Used a little caulk for the screw holes. Mounted the Pos+ to rear Batt. and neg- to the front Batt. Its working good. and Intalled new Batteries
 

Attachments

Bairrfhionn82

New member
47
0
0
Location
New Brighton,MN
My M1009 came with the solargizer.MNNG wired it from the inside front windshield down through the dash and into the engine bay.I don't have to worry about mother nature or some a$$ breaking it. I park with the front facing south so it gets max exposure everyday.
 

wrex

New member
182
9
0
Location
Laveen, Az
Combat Jump: Where you in 2nd / 75th or did yours come already marked?

Mine came with holes in the hood where they had one installed., passenger side, near the front (stupid location). I have one, but yet to install it. I'm not planning on putting it on the hood again though. Not sure where, yet.
 

combat jump

Member
143
4
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
Wrex,
Sorry I'm late getting back. My truck was the original cammo when I got it, and had some other bumper number. I painted it tan, and stenciled on my old unit's number: C Co, 2/75. Yes, I know 2/75 didn't have CUCVs. :)
 

CycleJay

New member
1,433
7
0
Location
Marietta, Ga
Hi all,

I installed mine accoring to the directions/photos from this thread when it was originally posted.
And ever since then, it has been working great. Have not had any issues with low batteries since.

As long as the panel gets sun, the batteries get juice. And I did mount it outside on the hood.

But one question, the really LONG wire from the panel to the control box,
would it be safe to trim it down to just as long as it needed?
And get that 10ft +/- spool of wire out of there.
Would it still work if trimmed?

Thank you...
 

spicergear

New member
2,307
26
0
Location
Millerstown, PA
My M931A2 has FOUR brand new 6MTLs in it. Is this still as easy as buying two solar chargers? I *think*...sorry... they're hooked up for + to - on each side for 24v and 24v then hooked together for a mighty 24v.
 

JCKnife

Well-known member
1,367
46
48
Location
Kentucky
I'm changing out the hood on my deuce. I already had a new solargizer off e-bay but I figured I would keep using the old one until it dies. Today I removed the bolts on the old one but it still wouldn't come loose. I thought maybe some sealant around the holes? I pried up each corner carefully but still it wouldn't budge. Finally I figured, well, it's no use to me on here so let's do whatever it takes to remove it! Turned out to be some double-sided tape or something like that underneath that was so strong, the base plate was damaged in the attempt to remove it.

I'm curious if anyone thinks these should be mounted with some tiny spacers underneath to keep a pocket of moisture from always being there underneath?
 

Attachments

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I'm changing out the hood on my deuce. I already had a new solargizer off e-bay but I figured I would keep using the old one until it dies. Today I removed the bolts on the old one but it still wouldn't come loose. I thought maybe some sealant around the holes? I pried up each corner carefully but still it wouldn't budge. Finally I figured, well, it's no use to me on here so let's do whatever it takes to remove it! Turned out to be some double-sided tape or something like that underneath that was so strong, the base plate was damaged in the attempt to remove it.

I'm curious if anyone thinks these should be mounted with some tiny spacers underneath to keep a pocket of moisture from always being there underneath?
See post #17. I use rubber grommets in the holes for this purpose.
 

Castle Bravo

Hundredaire Socialite
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,958
218
63
Location
Arizona
Would it work OK to attach the Neg lead to the Neg ground bus bar?
It would probably work, though the instructions do say to not alter the control box to battery wire length, and this would be doing that, in essence.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks