Thinking of MRAP super singles

[todds112]

Been reading and reading. I really like the look of the MRAP wheels and Peashooter's adapter plates. From what I've seen for sale, hardware, shipping, etc. I'm estimating about $3,000 (set of 6). Does that sound right for those that have done it?

Do you guys get a spare or not? I've seen pics of trucks with the NDT spare still on the rack. Could you actually use that spare in a pinch? Kind of looks silly on there

How on earth do you actually mount the wheels on the truck. I've seen 400-500 pounds listed for the wheels. I was getting exhausted trying to get the NDT's up onto the hubs.


Is adding all that unsprung weight going to lead to damage to the suspension, bearings, axles etc?

And finally, is it even doable without power steering?

 

[ATPTac]

$3000ish sounds about right for just the tires, that's not going to include any shipping costs (if applicable), adapter plates, hardware, etc... You need to realistically add on roughly $1000+ in cost for all that.

As far as the spare goes, you could use a NDT in pinch, but I wouldn't drive on it for too terribly long. When we got our singles, we got 7 of them so we'd have a spare. The weight of the wheels/tires is going to be around 550lbs each, if memory serves me, so mounting them will be a challenge unless you get a tire dolly or some other kind of set up to prop it up on the hub.

I haven't heard of anybody having any issues with the additional weight affecting anything on the truck. And yes, its doable without power steering. One thing you do need to look into is making sure you can get the toe set up once you mount them, and also you're more than likely going to have to do a caster adjustment on the spring perches. Otherwise mounting up radials on a truck that was designed around bias ply tires can result in a lot of excessive road wandering.

 

[welldigger]

$3000 is in the ballpark. I'd say 4k is more realistic by the time you buy nuts, bolts, O rings etc. I have 395s on A3 wheels and I don't have power steering...yet. It drives fine.

As far as mounting them to the truck. I actually find them easier to deal with than the 9.00-20's. The 395s are wider and have a more square profile. So once you stand the tire up it will pretty much stay up on its own. Then you can just walk it into place. You might have to adjust the jack under the axle up or down a bit but no big deal there. I don't have a tire dolly.

I have a spare myself. You can mount a 395 in the spare tire holder. You have to move it a bit and trim the tool box and mudflap a bit but it will fit.

 

[todds112]

I do have a small Kubota tractor with a loader I could use to help manipulate them a bit. Hate to have someone find me in the driveway pinned under a tire.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Do not use a tractor to manipulate large tires. Lots of things get broken and boogered up real fast. I learned the hard way.

 

[rwminck]

I used a long handle shovel. You can use the fot on the handle for leverage moving up, down and a little left and right. I think I got the technique from Clinto. I am about $4500 in to it on my tire job, but I replaced all the wheel cylinders with new and prep'd, primed and painted most everything. Good luck

 

[todds112]

I used a long handle shovel. You can use the fot on the handle for leverage moving up, down and a little left and right. I think I got the technique from Clinto. I am about $4500 in to it on my tire job, but I replaced all the wheel cylinders with new and prep'd, primed and painted most everything. Good luck

My plan is to do the same. I want to get everything in top mechanical shape before doing any "improvements". We do have a local tire place that does a lot of commercial and ag equipment. Might be easier to just write the check, as they say!

 

[todds112]

Do not use a tractor to manipulate large tires. Lots of things get broken and boogered up real fast. I learned the hard way.

The tractor, the truck or both?!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Wheel studs and CTIS stuff. Tractor is fine.

 

[welldigger]

I honestly don't see why people have so much trouble with these tires and wheels. Yes they are heavy but once you develop a technique to moving them around its no big deal.

For the record I'm not a large guy.

 

[Jeepsinker]

It really is not that bad. I wrestle 5 ton tires by myself and I'm not a big guy either. The tractor thing was just an experiment in laziness.

 

[welldigger]

I tried my skid steer. However, I don't have pallet forks and the tire wouldn't balance in the bucket. O well.

 

[skinnyR1]

Im with welldigger. Put the tire in place, and raise or lower the truck until it lines up. You just slide the wheel onto the hub. Its easy once you get the hang of it. It requires no heavy lifting at all.

 

[peashooter]

Im with welldigger. Put the tire in place, and raise or lower the truck until it lines up. You just slide the wheel onto the hub. Its easy once you get the hang of it. It requires no heavy lifting at all.

This is what I did also. Just rolled the wheel up to the truck and rocked it back and fourth into position then jacked the truck up to the right height. On the rear wheels you probably need to get the whole axle (both wheels) off the ground so you can spin the hub to the correct location to line up with the wheel rather than the other way around. I didnt have any equipment to move my wheels, the hardest part was getting them off the ground when they were dumped in my front yard... once I leveraged them into the upright position I did everything by my self by just rolling them. Just had to jump out of the way one time when one started to tip and I wasnt going to try to catch it!
As far as prices go, it does depend. There are lots of guys selling brand new wheel/tire/runflat assemblies ready to go for $300 each (just check the classifieds on here). If you are okay with used tires then they can even be had a bit cheaper.... but then there is the shipping assuming you cant find something close enough to you. If you can find tires close by then that is the best deal. you can get new MRAP rims as cheap as $65 right out of our classifieds and shipping of rims isnt too bad (probably less than $200 for up to 8 shipped to you).

EDIT:
Oh and your question about the NDT as a spare. You can use a stock tire as a spare on the rear IF you pull the axle out for it temporarily. All the tires need to be the same diameter on the rear if the axles are in place. I ended up putting a single lockout on one side of the front rear axle (the wheel behind the drivers seat) so that I could get better steering, less tire wear, and be able to run a smaller spare tire in an emergency.

 

[VPed]

I use a long pry bar for mounting the wheel on to the axle studs. The process is similar to using a shovel but allows the additional capability of being able to turn the tire so the hole in the wheel line up with the studs. No need to jack up the second axle at the same time this way.

When I first went with singles, I would use the same pry bar to give me enough leverage when lifting a tire/wheel up from horizontal. I have now wrestled with these big tires enough to be able to lift them up without the prybar. Factor in the money saved on a gym membership when justifying the cost.

So I agree with the others that say no problems with the swap. I have no power steering either and the truck drives the same or maybe a bit easier now. They are great off-roading in sand. They look great, especially with them fasteners staring back at you after using Peashooters adapters. I will suggest a 3/4 inch or better impact wrench for those bolts with locknuts. I bought a HF 3/4 impact for about $80 that will cinch up to about 400 ft/lbs in second gear (three power settings).

 

[gimpyrobb]

You can't just lift one axle to spin the hubs, unless you have a drive shaft removed, or a lock out on one axle.

I use the pry bar and block method myself.

 

[skinnyR1]

Oh and your question about the NDT as a spare. You can use a stock tire as a spare on the rear IF you pull the axle out for it temporarily. All the tires need to be the same diameter on the rear if the axles are in place. I ended up putting a single lockout on one side of the front rear axle (the wheel behind the drivers seat) so that I could get better steering, less tire wear, and be able to run a smaller spare tire in an emergency.

I haven't pony'd up the money for a 395 spare yet. I have desplined hubs on the front, in place of lockouts. I figure that if I get a flat anywhere on the truck, I can switch wheels around and run the smaller NDT spare on the front axle, since they are just free wheeling anyway. That would at the least, get me where ever I am going.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I use a plate jack to mount the 14.00x20's.
Also a long pry bar works well, just a little slower.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I haven't pony'd up the money for a 395 spare yet. I have desplined hubs on the front, in place of lockouts. I figure that if I get a flat anywhere on the truck, I can switch wheels around and run the smaller NDT spare on the front axle, since they are just free wheeling anyway. That would at the least, get me where ever I am going.

I have a 14.50r20 as a spare. I plan on the same thing, put the spare on the front with the desplined hubs.

 

[todds112]

Great tips all. Thanks.