Tips to short list HMMWVs up for auction on Gov Planet


Denver, CO
I was wondering if folks wouldn't mind sharing what to look for when short listing HMMWVs for bidding on.

I am guessing

1. HMMWVs with 6.5L are worth a little more than ones with 6.2L ??
2. HMMWVs that can start on their own are worth more than one that need to be jump started ??
3. HMMWVs that start with a jump are worth more than ones that do not start / can be started / engine cannot stay running ??
4. HMMWVs that appear to run smooth are worth more than the ones which have notes that they run rough ??
5. 4 man HMMWVs are worth more than 2 man ??
6. HMMWVs that have all doors, top and seats are worth more than those that don't ??
7. HMMWVs that appear to have all parts intact are worth more than those that are missing little things ??
8. HMMWVs that have decent tires are worth more than those with beat up tires ??
9. HMMWVs that have no noticeable leaks are worth than those that have any noticeable leaks ??
10. HMMWVs that have neither very low nor very high oil pressure when running are probably worth more ??

Please provide your thoughts and comments. Thanks in advance.


New member
St. Augustine, FL
I'll start with this: Pay attention to inspection report - read all of it! Most importantly, PAY ATTENTION TO THE PICTURES!!! DETAILS DETAILS DETAILS. The pictures tell a much better story than the inspection report sometimes. Also, if you have the opportunity to inspect it first hand, then by all means, do so. Luckily for me, I live relatively close to a few of the bases, so I can mosey my way over to one to check out an item. Of course, if you aren't as lucky, then PAY ATTENTION TO THE PICTURES!!!

Keep in mind, there is a plethora of info on the web to help with questions too. Since I researched all this myself before I bought mine, this is what I found:

-A 6.2 will get better fuel economy and is a stronger engine than the 6.5 but stock will have less power.

-HMMWV's that start will generally bring in a higher bid as it's proven that it...well, starts! I don't want to pay a lot for something if it doesn't run, do you?

-The HMMWV that I purchased was listed as, "After jump starting, the engine ran. Would not restart without jump-starting." Bought it anyway because the over-all rig was in awesome condition. When it was delivered, I jump-started it...and it has started ever since. In my case, I lucked out, but be very cautious.

-Any vehicle that runs smooth, will absolutely be worth more. Take into consideration, a lot of these have been sitting for a while, so it's possible that they can smooth out after letting them run for a little.

-I'll just go ahead and say this in regards to your parts and leaks question: the more complete the rig, with less leaks, the more chance of a higher price.

-4 Mans fetch more money generally, hard-doors fetch quite a bit too, but I think the hard-tops fetch more with the ULTIMATE turtle back (slant back) fetching the most. 2-man troop carriers can easily be converted if the rear "jumper" seats are complete (can anyone give me that actually name of these seats?) 2-mans, IMO, are the best way to go...

Lastly, you could absolutely luck out and score an awesome rig with little to no issues, just because no one else decided they wanted that particular one. I've seen it happen, and that's how I got mine. Feel free to PM me with any other questions.
Last edited:


Austin, Texas
Only my opinion, but I tend to stay away from the 6.5's. You are better off with a 6.2 than a 6.5 UNLESS you can be certain its the later Optimizer version of the 6.5. Horsepower difference between the 6.2 NA and 6.5 NA is minimal


Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Welcome to the site.

GP does a decent job on the inspection reports. They try to get each vehicle running so they can get more $$ and bidders. If they say it doesn't run then Buyer Beware. The inspection reports ARE NOT a "gold key certification" on the vehicle. They do miss many small details.

Since you are new here the biggest tip I can offer and anyone else is to make sure you follow the forum rules. Here are a few highlights.

No not discuss current or future auction items. After the auctions close you can talk about any item that has sold.

Be aware that the current HMMWVs are being sold as "Off-Road Use Only". They are not to be titled for "On Road Use". Any discussions about titling them as "On Road" will earn you a vacation from the site. Read the Forum Stickies for insite.

Do not discuss/ask how to insure any MV. Again read the Forum Stickies.

There are many more but those three are biggies
Last edited by a moderator:


Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Hear me now, believe me later: It is ALL ABOUT the body. Bent up panels are cannot be straightened. Have to be unriveted and replaced. 1/4" thick flakey CARC paint is IMPOSSIBLE to remove and takes DAYS to sand down. Mechanical issues and missing parts are simple to deal with.


Imho it's all a crap shoot with the engines. Gp will not take pics of rebuild tags. Some people get lucky and have a fresh engine with blow by from heavy break in oil, others much worse.

You have to go off the pictures instead of the report, especially since gp will state the pictures are a major part of the description. Even then the pictures are low resolution and most of the time if a body panel is dark from a shadow, there's damage.

So all in all. You can spend 12k plus on one that is represented as a clean truck, and still have issues. Or spend much less on one and have a larger budget.


New member
Wilmington Delaware
If Maine did the rebuild there should be a sticker on the motor stating date and things like oversized rings and such. When I spoke to the guys in Maine they stated that the units that came through there were ground up rebuilds. Mine had the e-brake update, 3 point seat belts and other things. It went for low due to "Jump Start" and "Blow By' yet it did say 460 miles on it so I took a crap shoot. I got lucky, changed the oil, ran it and about 100 miles later no blow by at all. The major issue with mine was corrosion. It did a lot of sitting in a grass field so I have been dealing with that...
Another important note, Electrical.. Lights work, Gauges work..
In the end, every one of these is a starting point. You are not at the Honda dealer. Be ready to tear into things, fix parts etc...


New member
Dallas Texas
Wow good info.

Checked the engine compartment but didn't see any stickers. Where would it be?


Oh the alternator reads as a 60amp 28v model. Is that an updated one?

Mine did have 3 point seat belts ... No rear seats, no doors...

Installed high back seats and soft doors.

Mine sat for awhile in a field. It was a NG Mississippi truck
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks