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Tranny Help

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
Hey I just re-cased the tranny in my m1009 and everything went smoothly. I reinstalled it and filled her up. I put it in drive and reverse about 15 times untill it was shifting into gear strong and went for a test drive. Now it doesn't leave 1st gear unless I shift from drive to second give it a sec and then put it back into drive. If I do that it will shift from 1st to second and then when I do it again it will go from 2nd to 3rd without any problems. I have vaccume at the modulator and the governer is good. Also it seems like it sometimes will stay in whatever gear it was in when I stopped (eg. starting from a light in second untill I downshift it into 1st). What is uo with it? The fluid level is fine. I know when I reinstalled it everything was "clean", but had some dirty tranny fluid on the parts. Do you think it could be as simple as a new filter (didn't replace it :( )? I was planning on going for a trip to the mountains wednesday night, but now that is up to my tranny.

Any quick help would be GREATLY appreciated,
Miles
 

Goatwerks

Member
103
0
16
Location
San Bernardino, Ca.
Sounds like no vacuume or a stuck/sticking valve somewhere. For TH400 Check the following items in this order: 1, vacuume at modulator, modulator valve moves freely. 2, pull and clean the governer assembly and make sure valve is free and gear is not damaged. 3, pull pan and remove valve body, clean with brake cleaner and compressed air.remove spacer plate, make sure proper VB gaskets were used and check balls are in proper locations.
These are the common sources of your woes.
Trust the tranny guy:wink:
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
Sounds like no vacuume or a stuck/sticking valve somewhere. For TH400 Check the following items in this order: 1, vacuume at modulator, modulator valve moves freely. 2, pull and clean the governer assembly and make sure valve is free and gear is not damaged. 3, pull pan and remove valve body, clean with brake cleaner and compressed air.remove spacer plate, make sure proper VB gaskets were used and check balls are in proper locations.
These are the common sources of your woes.
Trust the tranny guy:wink:
Vacuum at modulator =OK
Modulator valve =Free
Governor=Free, gear good, and weights move

I will pull the pan in the next couple days and check it. Also how do I check the year of the tranny (it was a rebuilt one and I have no idea what year, but I used the earlier than 87 VB gasket because the truck was an 84, but like I said the tranny is not the original.

Is it ok to drive it this way for the next day (about a mile or so down the road and back)?

Thanks,
Miles
 

Goatwerks

Member
103
0
16
Location
San Bernardino, Ca.
The case should have a tag with 2 letters and a number, the number is the year. The best advice is to compare the case pasages to the original, if they are not the same, you may need a different seperator plate. The gaskets should not cover any holes.
I would not drive it unless you have too till you address the shifting issue, the clutch plates can get damaged in a short time.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
well I'm dumb it turned out to just be a broken vacuum line to the modulator. I put a new modulator and hose in and now it shifts around 25 and 40-45.

Thanks for the help,
Miles
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
Your welcome:-D Good job:!:
I built a lot of these units in my earlier days and can usually diagnose one in less than 5 min.
Thanks, ya this was my first time ever opening a transmission so I was getting a little nervous when it seemed to not be shifting. I though I may have put something in wrong.

Thanks Again,
Miles
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
207
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
you can adjust the speeds down a tad.. that is really high 2ed to 3rd shift. I have mine set to shift at 20 and 30. I still have a good firm shift too. All you have to do is there is a small screw in the vac line "nipple" of the modulator. Adjust it out (counter clock wise) with a small pen type screw driver about a turn or two.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
you can adjust the speeds down a tad.. that is really high 2ed to 3rd shift. I have mine set to shift at 20 and 30. I still have a good firm shift too. All you have to do is there is a small screw in the vac line "nipple" of the modulator. Adjust it out (counter clock wise) with a small pen type screw driver about a turn or two.

I have turned that screw out a bunch, but I will see if it will go further. Is there something I can adjust on the IP as well? It also seems to start in second occasionally is there a reason for that. I think it was doing that before the recasing as well.
 

Goatwerks

Member
103
0
16
Location
San Bernardino, Ca.
2nd gear starts can be caused by a weak vac pump or low vac, sticking 1-2 shift valve or throttle valve, and last worn or sticking governor;-)
Yhe vac control valve on the IP is adjustable . Just loosen the screws and rotate it and try other positions aftr verifying good vav at start up and running.
 

tm america

Active member
2,600
23
38
Location
merrillville in
check gov agian watch the valve hold it gear up squise the weights together valve should drop down and move back up when you release the weights also a bad kickdown soloniodwill cause that to if gov is free and modulator valve is free usually the kickdown soloniod sticking cases are different on the later one 87 and up they use an extra check ball if you have the wrong gaskets on it it wont cause a problem but if you have them fliped top to bottom it will give you problems
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
Well while I was sitting on the side of the road trying to get my motor to get some power and quit stalling I found that the vac line from the pump to the IP is very cracked. So once I get the IP rebuild I will replace that I hopefully I won't have a problem.
 
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