Transmission- or differential issue?!

[osteo16]

If you spin yoke and neither Cv output spins, then your yoke shaft is stripped/sheared.. One wheel/ Cv must spin if yoke is turning.. If all internals looked ok then Its either a stripped/sheared yoke pinion or output flange.. Thats all I could possibly muster from your scenario... Anyone out there with a different opinion ?

 

[Mogman]

had to work the last two days but will be able to provide more info on tuesday. there is some resistance from the yoke but i can spin it with one hand. is there an internal clutch in this diff?

No

 

[FMFHMMWV]

after inspecting it more, I think you gentlemen are right. i think its a cv axles.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

my next question is who has good recommendations on cv axle suppliers? did different models come with different cv axles? I have the m1123. is there an option to upgrade? if so to which one?

 

[NDT]

Coug called it in post #2. The bolts sheared off. You don't need a CV joint.

 

[Coug]

my next question is who has good recommendations on cv axle suppliers? did different models come with different cv axles? I have the m1123. is there an option to upgrade? if so to which one?

no upgrades, as the M1123 already has the upgraded version.
From the video, no idea if the CV is actually bad. Most likely it's still okay, and it's just the 6 bolts that need replaced. Some were obviously missing, which adds stress to the remaining ones, causing them to break.
Should be easy enough to move the CV out of the way, and try to extract the bolts. They are supposed to have locktite on them, so might not be the easiest thing.
Either replace bolts with ones from a reputable seller, or go with the bluehummer locking bolt kit. It's kind of spendy, but does add piece of mind and 100% reusable, where the stock bolts are technically overtorqued a little and should be single use only.

 

[osteo16]

ummm, you got no screws holding your Cvs... looks like all holes are empty... should be 6 bolts going through CV flange into rotor..

yeah, what Coug said

 

[FMFHMMWV]

no upgrades, as the M1123 already has the upgraded version.
From the video, no idea if the CV is actually bad. Most likely it's still okay, and it's just the 6 bolts that need replaced. Some were obviously missing, which adds stress to the remaining ones, causing them to break.
Should be easy enough to move the CV out of the way, and try to extract the bolts. They are supposed to have locktite on them, so might not be the easiest thing.
Either replace bolts with ones from a reputable seller, or go with the bluehummer locking bolt kit. It's kind of spendy, but does add piece of mind and 100% reusable, where the stock bolts are technically overtorqued a little and should be single use only.

You all have been a tremendous help! I do see the holes with missing bolts. Will get on this the next time I have a chance!

 

[Mogman]

You need to inspect that half shaft closely, any out of round (wallered) holes in the flange, bad....
ALSO and cracks splits or tears in ether of the boots, bad....

 

[Mogman]

Also you need to be more observant , those missing bolts should have been easy to spot

 

[lpcoating]

Not sure how long you've owned this truck but if you've not done so you really need to look over EVERYTHING 100%. There have been many conversations on what to do when you purchase a truck and if you're not familiar with it, do a search and read some of the threads. If you are not mechanically capable, then get someone who is. And, while on the topic, it's a very good practice to look over your MV regularly - crawl underneath, inspect, look for leaks, see if stuff is loose. Put a wrench on it, etc. Some of these trucks are getting close to 40 years old and require more than just driving.

 

[TOBASH]

Also you need to be more observant , those missing bolts should have been easy to spot

Mogman is correct. Tough love BUT you should have been able to spot this prior to pulling the diff cover.

We all just want you to be safe and happy.

Now check the hubs for leaks and looseness.

 

[Milcommoguy]

After Action Report.... Note to self, Check this and that.

Following this thread clearly points to knowing your rig. When one straps into a HUMMWV, It's a good idea to have an understanding of the basic and unique features. But in this case, if it was time to stop, that could have been a bigger problem. (in board brakes)

In my little world, a lot of time was / is in the books and under / over the rig, matching simple words and pictures on just how this trucks works. It is part of the complete hobby experience... Maybe more so.

The BOSS lady say's "NOW whats wrong with the PIG" It's just me crawling out from underneath, rag, wrench and flashlight... routine inspection 3-4 times a year. It's a HMMWV, not a Toyota. I can fix one... the other goes to the dealer LOL

Guess growing up with an Erector Set, never fads, CAMO

 

[TOBASH]

After Action Report.... Note to self, Check this and that.

Following this thread clearly points to knowing your rig. When one straps into a HUMMWV, It's a good idea to have an understanding of the basic and unique features. But in this case, if it was time to stop, that could have been a bigger problem. (in board brakes)

In my little world, a lot of time was / is in the books and under / over the rig, matching simple words and pictures on just how this trucks works. It is part of the complete hobby experience... Maybe more so.

The BOSS lady say's "NOW whats wrong with the PIG" It's just me crawling out from underneath, rag, wrench and flashlight... routine inspection 3-4 times a year. It's a HMMWV, not a Toyota. I can fix one... the other goes to the dealer LOL

Guess growing up with an Erector Set, never fads, CAMO

CamO is right!

Erector sets and Legos and Duplos taught kids more than any computer game!!! Same with RadioShack electronic project kits.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Also you need to be more observant , those missing bolts should have been easy to spot

yes sir, all of this is still new to me. I thank you for calling those out in the video. Im learning so much from everyone's input. the transfer case is being put back together to go back into the truck and I will be doing a cv/rear diff job as soon as this rain lets up.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Not sure how long you've owned this truck but if you've not done so you really need to look over EVERYTHING 100%. There have been many conversations on what to do when you purchase a truck and if you're not familiar with it, do a search and read some of the threads. If you are not mechanically capable, then get someone who is. And, while on the topic, it's a very good practice to look over your MV regularly - crawl underneath, inspect, look for leaks, see if stuff is loose. Put a wrench on it, etc. Some of these trucks are getting close to 40 years old and require more than just driving.

Ive owned the truck for about a year and had to do some engine work when I had an engine knock. swapped push rods and lifters on he passenger banks and the problem went away. Ive never really had to work on these until I owned one myself as I was just a corpsman in the back of one tending to patients. give me a trauma and Ill know my way inside and out of that situation but Im still new to diagnosing and treating the truck. If I was in the motorpool with marines it was because I was dodging seeing colds and tummy aches in the BAS lol.

 

[Mogman]

Ive owned the truck for about a year and had to do some engine work when I had an engine knock. swapped push rods and lifters on he passenger banks and the problem went away. Ive never really had to work on these until I owned one myself as I was just a corpsman in the back of one tending to patients. give me a trauma and Ill know my way inside and out of that situation but Im still new to diagnosing and treating the truck. If I was in the motorpool with marines it was because I was dodging seeing colds and tummy aches in the BAS lol.

Do not think I am jumping on your case but there is allot of maintenance that you are way behind on, those bolts should have been checked when you inspected/replaced the geared hub spindle locking retainers which is the first thing you do along with changing all the filters and fluids and definitely before hitting the streets.
Noisy lifters are fairly common after sitting for decades and usually clear themselves with new oil/filter and time.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Do not think I am jumping on your case but there is allot of maintenance that you are way behind on, those bolts should have been checked when you inspected/replaced the geared hub spindle locking retainers which is the first thing you do along with changing all the filters and fluids and definitely before hitting the streets.
Noisy lifters are fairly common after sitting for decades and usually clear themselves with new oil/filter and time.

All fluids and filters have been changed. After I get the cv joint issue fixed I can move on to the geared hubs. I don't take it as anyone jumping on my case. I appreciate all the input and even criticism as it allows me to learn my truck and how to care for it. So thank you! As I get these done I'll update this thread and move on the the next critical maintenance.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

So i got the broken bolts out but removing the Differential flange. Now i am reinstalling the flange. The chart says in supposed to torque to 166-196 but that seems like too much. I'm worried that will place a lot of pressure on the bearing inside the diff. I'm talking about this bolt...

 

[FMFHMMWV]

I'm going off of this chart. I highlighted what I think is the bolt