Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[cucv1833]

My truck is still doing that same thing.
I changed all rubber fuel lines, added electric fuel pump, new fuel filter base. return valve is good. but still dying out after a few miles. i cleaned the SOCK in the fuel tank is was full of slime. it ran well for 2 days and started acting up again. i want to drop and clean the whole fuel tank and install a new sending unit. i would like to add one with only 2 ports any ideas?

 

[Iamnewatthis]

My truck is still doing that same thing.
I changed all rubber fuel lines, added electric fuel pump, new fuel filter base. return valve is good. but still dying out after a few miles. i cleaned the SOCK in the fuel tank is was full of slime. it ran well for 2 days and started acting up again. i want to drop and clean the whole fuel tank and install a new sending unit. i would like to add one with only 2 ports any ideas?

RockAuto Parts Catalog

These guys had best price, fast delivery, and quality parts.
I got the spectre gas tank and sending unit. Made in canada, so not china mart,
and i painted it with some rust oleum. I figured might as well do both if i had to pull the tank anyway. It was only another 100 bucks.
Also you will have 3 ports. Fuel line out, return line, and vapor line back to filler neck.


Did you replace the rubber vapor line back to filler neck, there are 2 sections.
Is your gas gauge reading right?
That turned out to be an indicator on my sending unit.
Have you looked for leaks since installing your electric fuel pump.
As the guys here told me the OE fuel pump sucks the fuel so you wont see a leak before it. With your electric you should be able to see a leak after the pump if there is one.
It may be sucking air in slowly somewhere and then choking out your IP.
Look at the nozzle caps on the two injection nozzles closest to the fire wall.
These are all shots in the dark.
What finally worked for me was to look at the whole fuel system back to front.
Tank---sending unit---rubber lines---fuel lines---fuel pump---fuel lines---fuel filter---
IP---fuel lines---injectors---return lines soft--- return line to tank--- vapor line to filler neck.
Also this is gonna sound dumb but the first time mine was cutting out i was just out of gas. No ****. My gauge wasnt working right before i replaced sending unit.
I was going by what i saw which was gas in the filler neck at the bend. I hadn't been driving it very much so when i saw that at the gas station i figured it was full.
What it was is that there is a slight downward bend where the rubber part of the filler neck meets the metal part. Its lower than the bend in the neck on the tank. The fuel pools up there until more fuel is put in and the weight of it pushes the fuel past the bend and into the tank. Stupid I know but i just want to pass on everything i learned. Everyone here has helped me and I just want to pay it forward.

 

[cucv1833]

RockAuto Parts Catalog

These guys had best price, fast delivery, and quality parts.
I got the spectre gas tank and sending unit. Made in canada, so not china mart,
and i painted it with some rust oleum. I figured might as well do both if i had to pull the tank anyway. It was only another 100 bucks.
Also you will have 3 ports. Fuel line out, return line, and vapor line back to filler neck.


Did you replace the rubber vapor line back to filler neck, there are 2 sections.
Is your gas gauge reading right?
That turned out to be an indicator on my sending unit.
Have you looked for leaks since installing your electric fuel pump.
As the guys here told me the OE fuel pump sucks the fuel so you wont see a leak before it. With your electric you should be able to see a leak after the pump if there is one.
It may be sucking air in slowly somewhere and then choking out your IP.
Look at the nozzle caps on the two injection nozzles closest to the fire wall.
These are all shots in the dark.
What finally worked for me was to look at the whole fuel system back to front.
Tank---sending unit---rubber lines---fuel lines---fuel pump---fuel lines---fuel filter---
IP---fuel lines---injectors---return lines soft--- return line to tank--- vapor line to filler neck.
Also this is gonna sound dumb but the first time mine was cutting out i was just out of gas. No ****. My gauge wasnt working right before i replaced sending unit.
I was going by what i saw which was gas in the filler neck at the bend. I hadn't been driving it very much so when i saw that at the gas station i figured it was full.
What it was is that there is a slight downward bend where the rubber part of the filler neck meets the metal part. Its lower than the bend in the neck on the tank. The fuel pools up there until more fuel is put in and the weight of it pushes the fuel past the bend and into the tank. Stupid I know but i just want to pass on everything i learned. Everyone here has helped me and I just want to pay it forward.

Thanks for the info. im still leaning towards a dirty tank and a bad sending unit. i dropped the tank and cleaned the sock off but never cleaned the tank like i should have. my fuel gauge does not read right and yes i did check the ground wire. the sending unit i have was from a 85 chevy gas engine USED. it has 3 ports on the sending unit- fuel out -return-and the 3rd port has a 3inch line thats capped off. it starts great and idles forever but once going down the road a few miles it will complety shut off. I also changed the fuel shut off solenoid. anyway i think i need to clean my tank. Thanks again for the info.

 

[stampy]

Real dumb question but you didn't put gas in a diesel right? There's a lot of Gasoline talk going on just making sure. Otherwise I concur with crap in the tank. If it ran good for two days then the problem returned as they say "There's your sign"

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well, after putting in new tank, sending unit, glow plugs, and fuel filter system.
It ran good for a couple of days and now it wont start.
I thought maybe the 6tmf batteries were shot so i bought new ones. 850 CCA.

It started one more time, now it wont start at all.
New batts have it cranking faster than ever but it wont start.
Just using up my starter.
Im about out of ideas.
Any help gladly excepted.

 

[lavarok]

Have you verified fuel at the filter and/or injectors?

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Have you verified fuel at the filter and/or injectors?

I unscrewed my fuel filter and fuel came out everywhere.

I have not checked for fuel at the injectors. Im so frustrated im not thinking right.
I didnt even think of that.
If I have no fuel at injectors then is it the IP?
I actually hope so as I have a new one along with new injectors arriving today or tmrrw.

Oh ya I put in a new fuel pump before i did anything.
And i have 12 volts at pink wire and 12 at the glow plug wires where they connect to glow plugs.

 

[stampy]

Don't put your foot on the pedal when trying to start, AT ALL. Mine is funny that way, If you touch the pedal when trying to start it forget it... I don't know why I didn't think about mentioning it before.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Don't put your foot on the pedal when trying to start, AT ALL. Mine is funny that way, If you touch the pedal when trying to start it forget it... I don't know why I didn't think about mentioning it before.

Yes i was pumping away on it, old habit from the days of carborators.

What do you think about fuel shut off solenoid?

 

[stampy]

Wouldn't hurt to pull it and clean it out just to be sure, The valve that is not the solenoid. Just make sure it clicks. You can give it fuel after it starts but lay off when trying to start her.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well i got everything off yesterday but the IP.
Noticed some of the fuel lines had fuel at the injectors and some didnt.
Dont know what that means.
Getting the IP out today and putting in the new one.

 

[stampy]

Let us know if it runs (for more than 2 days) Heck you are going to have a new truck after all this work you have put into it.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Let us know if it runs (for more than 2 days) Heck you are going to have a new truck after all this work you have put into it.

Yes, if it runs it will be great.

Got the IP out today, along with all the fuel lines.
Cleaned all the lines inside and out.
Painted the fuel lines with rust oleum.
Moved the fuel in line to the new pump and took off the vacume thing from the left side
of the old pump.
Stampy what is that thing called, the deal with the vacume lines going to the vacume lift pump? Also what is the deal on the right side with the rod that sits against the throttle body arm? one of the green wires goes to it.
Im doing the injectors too, can i just use a 30mm deep well socket or do i need the tool listed in the chiltons manual?
thanks.

 

[Barrman]

The vacuum thing on the side of the pump is the valve that controls how much vacuum your transmission sees. Moving it front ward or back ward varies where your shifts occur.

The black thing next to the throttle arm with the green wire is your fast idle solenoid. You really do need it when starting the engine cold. Outside temp hi or low.

You might be able to use a standard socket. However, the barbs on the side of the injectors for the return lines will probably hit it and keep the socket from getting on. Break a barb and you just bought a new injector. I got the special socket and it works great.

A 7/8" open end will work on the top of the injector too.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

The vacuum thing on the side of the pump is the valve that controls how much vacuum your transmission sees. Moving it front ward or back ward varies where your shifts occur.

The black thing next to the throttle arm with the green wire is your fast idle solenoid. You really do need it when starting the engine cold. Outside temp hi or low.

You might be able to use a standard socket. However, the barbs on the side of the injectors for the return lines will probably hit it and keep the socket from getting on. Break a barb and you just bought a new injector. I got the special socket and it works great.

A 7/8" open end will work on the top of the injector too.

Thanks for your help,
can you tell me where to get the vacuum valve and the fast idle solenoid?
took them off and brought them in to oreillys and they couldnt help.
Also where can i get the special socket?
thanks again. Joe

 

[Milbikes]

I admire your perseverance! When the problem is finally solved, you will have a great running truck. We will also learn a lot from this saga. Interested to see what finally does the trick. And be glad it is not a 6.5 Diesel! I went down that road, and it was a lot worse.



When dealing with old stubborn iron..........


“It is fatal to enter any war without the will to win it.”

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well after 3 days of wrenching and running to the store for last minute stuff.

Old injectors out. New ones in. New return lines too.
Old IP out, new one in.
Tomorrow putting the rest of it back together and then its waiting for batteries to arrive.
Will post pics tomorrow.

 

[timntrucks]

where can i find some ip parts. i am needing the shut off that is on top of said pump.

 

[Barrman]

Stanadyne dealers have them. Ebay had some brand new ones the other day. Make sure you specify 12 or 24 volt.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

where can i find some ip parts. i am needing the shut off that is on top of said pump.

Try these guys.

USDiesel / US Diesel -- Fuel injection replacement parts, tools, and equipment

Heres some more links; SSDiesel Supply :: GM 6.5 TD Specialists

1985 Chevrolet K5 Blazer - Diesel Parts Category