Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[Iamnewatthis]

Old injectors were looking pretty bad, one was completely blocked.

New Ip

 

[Iamnewatthis]

New IP
New injectors
New tank
New sending unit
New fuel pump
All rubber fuel lines have been replaced.
Glow plugs are newish (3 months ago)
All the lines from the IP to the injectors have been cleaned out.
New return lines
Fuel at/in the fuel filter
12 volts at the glow plugs, pink wire on pump and both green wires
No fuel at the injectors
Truck wont start.
Someone have an idea or should i just light this truck on fire.

 

[lavarok]

With everything you've replaced, there is bound to be some air in the lines. Make sure you follow the proper procedures for bleeding the lines.

Hopefully you'll figure this out.....

 

[Iamnewatthis]

With everything you've replaced, there is bound to be some air in the lines. Make sure you follow the proper procedures for bleeding the lines.

Hopefully you'll figure this out.....

I've got fuel at the in line to fuel filter and the filter is full of fuel when i spin it off.

I cracked an injector line and no fuel there though, what am i missing?

If the fast idle solenoid was bad would that keep it from starting?

 

[lavarok]

Sounds like you installed an aftermarket filter base. I am not familiar with the setup you have if you have deviated from stock. As for the fast idle solenoid, I assume you mean the black plunger or do you mean the cold advance assembly that mounts on the top of the pump? I doubt this is your problem.

It might take a lot of cranking to get fuel into the system and all the air purged. Not sure if an electric pump could help here, since it sounds like the air is from the pump to the injectors.

Its hard to help with your situation given the distance between us. At this point, I could only suggest trying to find someone local that can help.

Lack of fuel at the injectors is a problem. After installing the injector lines, the TM says:

7. Crank engine for 10-15 seconds, then wait 1 minute for starter motor to cool. Repeat until fuel is observed at all fittings. Tighten fittings to 20 lb. -ft. (27 N.m).

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Sounds like you installed an aftermarket filter base. I am not familiar with the setup you have if you have deviated from stock. As for the fast idle solenoid, I assume you mean the black plunger or do you mean the cold advance assembly that mounts on the top of the pump? I doubt this is your problem.

It might take a lot of cranking to get fuel into the system and all the air purged. Not sure if an electric pump could help here, since it sounds like the air is from the pump to the injectors.

Its hard to help with your situation given the distance between us. At this point, I could only suggest trying to find someone local that can help.

Lack of fuel at the injectors is a problem. After installing the injector lines, the TM says:

7. Crank engine for 10-15 seconds, then wait 1 minute for starter motor to cool. Repeat until fuel is observed at all fittings. Tighten fittings to 20 lb. -ft. (27 N.m).

Ian, I've got fuel all the way to the filter. And most likely after the filter.
I used a siphon pump on the in line at the fuel filter and pulled fuel to it.
The filter is full.
I pulled the out line on it and i can see fuel in the out line going to the pump.
I cracked all the injector lines and had wife crank away and i am not getting any fuel
coming out of the injector lines.

I also just made a discovery, the little arm on the side of the pump that works the vacuum attachment is loose and just hanging there. Would that keep it from pumping fuel to the injectors?
I guess i shoulda checked it before i put the pump in but everything looked like it was assembled and even had paint on all the screws.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Ok so the arm on this new pump doesnt need to be attached at the bottom.

The IP is back in again.
The truck is running.... sort of.
I primed all the fuel lines with a siphon pump and a can of fuel before i put the IP back in.
Primed the filter again.
New IP back in.
4, 4 second cranks and the beast lives!

Let it idle along time.
Drove it about 3/4 of a mile and it died at a stop sign.
Started back up with a 4 second crank.
Drove home, drove around neighborhood a little,
drove out of neighborhood about 3/4 of a mile i took my foot off the pedal and it died again.
Started again a little quicker, drove home, down the block again, backing into garage, died again.
Started instantly.
I'm thinking its still working the air out?
Before when it would shut down it would get harder and harder to start, now its getting easier everytime.
I would still like to know what you guys think though.
It has a new IP,
new injectors,
fairly new glow plugs(6 months)
new rubber sections of fuel line,
new tank and sending unit.
ETA, new glow plug temp switch too.
ETA-2, new return lines too

 

[lavarok]

Well I think congrats are in order. Glad you got it running before torching it in an alley!

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well i guess i was premature in getting excited.

Truck wont start now.

Wait light does not come on either. It was working yesterday.
Another night buried in the TM i guess.

 

[stampy]

Check glow plugs, no wait light means the engine is hot or the glow plugs are bad. Have you done the doghead relay yet? I still think you should run off a fuel can to eliminate any pin holes in the metal fuel lines bringing air into the system. When trouble shooting I always try to isolate systems and you can isolate the whole fuel tank and lines by running off a fuel can and letting the 12v pump pull fuel from the can to the filter base.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

After taking a break from it and pondering for a minute i realized did not hear the "clunk"
from the GPR, put a meter on it and its got 12v from the battery on top but when the key is position
no juice to the glow plugs. Took GPR back under warranty, waiting for the new one to get here in an hour. Let you know what happens. If that dont fix it ill pull glow plugs and exchange them under warranty too.
I did the dog head starter relay first week.
Thats one of the things that is kicking me in sack so hard.
I did everything i was supposed to week one, before i drove anywhere.
Stampy you are right if it cuts out again im running fuel from my can to the IP
and see what happens. thing is it never shuts down under idle, just while driving.
Let you know and thanks again to all.
If i buy a new gas cap and steering will that will pretty much be a whole new truck,lol.

 

[stampy]

Well, You will probably know your truck better than 80% of those driving them now.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well, You will probably know your truck better than 80% of those driving them now.

Ok so your right again.

Pulled two glow plugs, put jumper cable on them from battery, they do not get hot.
Put meter on cable 12 volts, metal tab on glow plug 12 volts, but it does not get hot.

Also even new GPR-7 (BWD) is not working right. 12 volts at hot wire on top,
nothing on 2 small wires and bottom orange wire that goes to glow plugs, when i turn key
to on positon small wires get hot but not the bottom orange wire.

Glow plug control card?

ETA; Did a couple of tests from the sticky FAQ, i tested all the glow plugs and believe they are fine.
Tested the my new GPR and its fine.
I believe its the control card.
Let you know.
Guess by coincidence it went out same time as my fuel problem was fixed.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

New control card, GPR still wont close to heat glow plugs.
New temp sensor too. Checked yellow wire to temp sensor nothing wrong with it that i can tell.
Did manual ground switch, truck now starts, drives a block or two, then cuts out.

Its like the IP is shutting off, happens when its well warmed up too.
The IP is new, injectors too, glow plugs also.
TM not allot of help.
Just about ready to sell this POS at a loss as its now causing fights with the wife.
If anyone has any ideas that would be great.
My neighbor who was a tech said the timing, but i thought that would only make it run rough?
Not shut off, or is he right?

 

[cucv1833]

New control card, GPR still wont close to heat glow plugs.
New temp sensor too. Checked yellow wire to temp sensor nothing wrong with it that i can tell.
Did manual ground switch, truck now starts, drives a block or two, then cuts out.

Its like the IP is shutting off, happens when its well warmed up too.
The IP is new, injectors too, glow plugs also.
TM not allot of help.
Just about ready to sell this POS at a loss as its now causing fights with the wife.
If anyone has any ideas that would be great.
My neighbor who was a tech said the timing, but i thought that would only make it run rough?
Not shut off, or is he right?

Dont know about the timing question but i feel your pain After $1500 in upgrades and being left on the side of the road 10 times im done with my M1008.
When i think i have it fixed it runs good for a day are two thens dies again.

I just got a new M1009 it has its few problems but i think im gunna start fresh.

 

[OL AG '89]

1833 great choice on the "NEW" CUCV what a different vehicle from the other CUCV......
You're afflicted with the bug, just admit it. You need the 12 step approach and unfortunately I just sold my manual for a warm bottle of beer, or I'd lend it to you.


Seriously, these are 25 year old vehicles, the 08, the 09, all of them.....
I bought my first one, it was a rusting piece of cr*p, bought second one and has been a GREAT vehicle, except for the current "no start" issue I'm dealing with, bought the third one and it's just sitting there, going to let it season up a bit before I dive into it.
If you enjoy, really enjoy, working on good solid built old iron, these trucks are for you. If you prefer to be able to jump in one of these EVERY day of week, without performing proper PMCS on a weekly basis, FORGET IT..... go buy a NEW 4x4, with heated seats and a digital clock...
I have a daily driver, but like to drive the 09 on occassion. I like the heated seats and digital clock and STEREO....
NEver announce to wife, g/f, concubine or neighbor you're finished workin on it, that will help you avoid fights with the 1st three listed.......

 

[cucv1833]

NEver announce to wife, g/f, concubine or neighbor you're finished workin on it, that will help you avoid fights with the 1st three listed.......

Well spoken. I always put a new part on tell everyone it is fixed then go off for a drive then get towed back a few hours later.

IAMNEWATTHIS- Keep us posted Sound like you went over the whole system.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well spoken. I always put a new part on tell everyone it is fixed then go off for a drive then get towed back a few hours later.

IAMNEWATTHIS- Keep us posted Sound like you went over the whole system.

Now it takes forever to start, once it does, it runs for awhile, it will stall out when slowing, sometimes when just sitting idleing.
Once its warm, after it stalls out, it starts easily.
God only knows.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

1833 great choice on the "NEW" CUCV what a different vehicle from the other CUCV......
You're afflicted with the bug, just admit it. You need the 12 step approach and unfortunately I just sold my manual for a warm bottle of beer, or I'd lend it to you.


Seriously, these are 25 year old vehicles, the 08, the 09, all of them.....
I bought my first one, it was a rusting piece of cr*p, bought second one and has been a GREAT vehicle, except for the current "no start" issue I'm dealing with, bought the third one and it's just sitting there, going to let it season up a bit before I dive into it.
If you enjoy, really enjoy, working on good solid built old iron, these trucks are for you. If you prefer to be able to jump in one of these EVERY day of week, without performing proper PMCS on a weekly basis, FORGET IT..... go buy a NEW 4x4, with heated seats and a digital clock...
I have a daily driver, but like to drive the 09 on occassion. I like the heated seats and digital clock and STEREO....
NEver announce to wife, g/f, concubine or neighbor you're finished workin on it, that will help you avoid fights with the 1st three listed.......

That is some funny stuff!

 

[semocoachworks]

You mentioned earlier in this thread that your engine ran quieter after cleaning the return valve? Mine rattles a little more after warmed up then it used to. It runs great but is just a little noisier than it was. Did you have this issue before you went through everything? Thanks in advance for any help.