Uh, oh! Anti-freeze In the Oil

[Rustygears]

You have indicated the classic symptoms of a blown head gasket and it is mechanics 101 for any engine, not just a multifuel or diesel. If you have "two pints of AF in the pan" then this is a pretty severe leak and a dangerous situation. That much AF would have me worried that AF may also getting into the cylinder bores and could wind up busting a rod, etc. at start up.

While changing the head gasket is a PITA, it is a lot easier than a rebuild for a broken rod.

 

[Maverick1701]

You have indicated the classic symptoms of a blown head gasket and it is mechanics 101 for any engine, not just a multifuel or diesel. If you have "two pints of AF in the pan" then this is a pretty severe leak and a dangerous situation. That much AF would have me worried that AF may also getting into the cylinder bores and could wind up busting a rod, etc. at start up.

While changing the head gasket is a PITA, it is a lot easier than a rebuild for a broken rod.

I didn't mean pints....I saw a small spot about the size of a half dime. I drained my oil, changed filters and changed af. No separation of anything in oil and oil is black and healthy looking. Af is the same (obviously green not black lol) . I saved an oil sample for Blackstone so I should know something soon.

 

[dabtl]

I drove my M35 for about three months knowing I had AF in the oil. I fixed the problem, I think, and finally changed the oil just now. It had a small amount of AF in it. But, the radiator had pressure. I believe the AF was residue. I will know when I change the oil again in June.

 

[Rustygears]

Please do not mistake small amounts of moisture (read: water) in the oil separated out as a distinct liquid for "AF in the oil". These engines are directly vented to the atmosphere and will suck in moisture that condenses as a small puddle on top of the oil in the pan. You won't see a little af in the oil. if you see any af in the pan, you see a $%^&load and that is the rotella milkshake syndrome requiring one of two remedies (driven by your next actions):

• clean stuff up and replace the head gaskets
• Replace the engine because the rings are rusted & seized, the bearing surfaces on the crank and bores pitted and the rod(s) broken due to hydraulic lock

Be sure about what you're dealing with. Af in pan equals loss of coolant from radiator. One always results in the other. As indicated, there is almost always oil in the coolant before af in the oil - its physics.

A few drops of water, some snotty slobber, etc. from a vehicle that sits is very very normal. That is far different from an external leak or a rotella milkshake. Once you have one, you'll know the difference in a second. Yum Yum !

 

[dabtl]

I have the milkshake. But, I also had the cooler leak probably long before I got the truck. I got the cooler leak fixed. Now, to see if that makes a difference. If not, I will start pulling the engine down. I have a full gasket kit, so that is in place if needed.

 

[Bad Karma]

So what was the final out come regarding coolant in your oil? I have this problem with milk shake and all. I replaced the head gaskets and problem persisted. I tore motor back down and had the heads magna fluxed, no cracks. Based on this thread took the cooler apart. It looks like this inside. Anyone think thats the problem? I don't want to put everything back together and still no fix. This is a sucky problem. I prefer when **** breaks and it can just be replaced. UHG.... Any advice is appreciated.

 

[FASTNOVA]

Did you clean everything out before putting it together?

 

[Cycletek]

It looks like the issue would be fairly evident with that much cross contamination. But you are right, it would be far easier to find a failure than a precursor to one........Good to meet you up in the cat box!

 

[Bad Karma]

Did you clean everything out before putting it together?

The entire motor is still apart and we can't find anything conclusive. When we put it together the first time it was clean. New oil, New AF, new gaskets , everything. Truck was great for a few weeks. But once heated up to freeway heat problem was back. AF in the oil and a nice milk shack at the valves. I'm hoping on this rebuild it is the oil cooler as that is the only thing we did not rebuild the first time.

 

[Bad Karma]

It looks like the issue would be fairly evident with that much cross contamination. But you are right, it would be far easier to find a failure than a precursor to one........Good to meet you up in the cat box!

Likewise - Lets do it again soon.

 

[Cycletek]

The entire motor is still apart and we can't find anything conclusive. When we put it together the first time it was clean. New oil, New AF, new gaskets , everything. Truck was great for a few weeks. But once heated up to freeway heat problem was back. AF in the oil and a nice milk shack at the valves. I'm hoping on this rebuild it is the oil cooler as that is the only thing we did not rebuild the first time.

Have you tried heating the parts a bit to see if cracks open up? Have put straight edges across the head surfaces and block to look for depressions? I have a piece of granite in the back of my shop that has been polished flat, I put a small amount of light oil on it and press down a piece of emery cloth and then oil the emery cloth down. I take the suspect part and drag it across the emery cloth in an "X" pattern. I then turn over the part and check the sanding pattern, where it touches and where it doesn't. It is very hard to do this with the block, so straight edges and feeler gauges are all you have, unless you can get it to an automotive machine shop.

Just thinking out loud here

 

[Cycletek]

Likewise - Lets do it again soon.

Absolutely A group like ours needs to do that, especially since we have the best weather in the world, even in the winter!

 

[FASTNOVA]

By any chance did you replace a bolt that goes into the engine block that is longer than what originally came with the engine? Only reason I ask is a buddy of mine replaced a mounting bolt to his water pump in a chevy and wound up penetrating the inner wall of the block cracking it slightly allowing coolant to seep into the oil.

 

[FASTNOVA]

Absolutely A group like ours needs to do that, especially since we have the best weather in the world, even in the winter!

Make sure to let me know if you do.

 

[WILDBOY6X6]

HI yep former cal guard OMS mechanic here, all are right if cooler is bad oil will get into coolant badly.

 

[Bad Karma]

Have you tried heating the parts a bit to see if cracks open up? Have put straight edges across the head surfaces and block to look for depressions? I have a piece of granite in the back of my shop that has been polished flat, I put a small amount of light oil on it and press down a piece of emery cloth and then oil the emery cloth down. I take the suspect part and drag it across the emery cloth in an "X" pattern. I then turn over the part and check the sanding pattern, where it touches and where it doesn't. It is very hard to do this with the block, so straight edges and feeler gauges are all you have, unless you can get it to an automotive machine shop.

Just thinking out loud here

Machine shop did all that to the heads when they magna fluxed. They felt heads are good and don't even need to be machined down. I saw him check the surface with a big steel straight edge. He had motor heads all over the place so I feel confident in his evaluation. I will check block surface tomorrow.

 

[Bad Karma]

HI yep former cal guard OMS mechanic here, all are right if cooler is bad oil will get into coolant badly.

Actually my problem is the opposite. There is NO oil in the coolant. Just coolant in the oil. I'm thinking the mixture is taking place once the oil pressure goes down and the coolant pressure stays. Is that possible ?

 

[Bad Karma]

By any chance did you replace a bolt that goes into the engine block that is longer than what originally came with the engine? Only reason I ask is a buddy of mine replaced a mounting bolt to his water pump in a chevy and wound up penetrating the inner wall of the block cracking it slightly allowing coolant to seep into the oil.

Negative - all original. Keep 'em coming, I'll try anything.

 

[Cycletek]

Actually my problem is the opposite. There is NO oil in the coolant. Just coolant in the oil. I'm thinking the mixture is taking place once the oil pressure goes down and the coolant pressure stays. Is that possible ?

You could be having a "reed valve" situation where it holds in one direction and lets pass the coolant in the other direction which leads me in the directing of a head gasket that is drawing in at a negative pressure or a steady state more than it is blowing in the coolant side of things. How quickly does it overheat or does it just run hotter than normal?

 

[FASTNOVA]

I'm looking at the picture you posted. What part is that?